Friday, May 31, 2019

Beautiful British Columbia, Part I: The Island

There comes a time in every man's life when he accomplishes a dream. This dream could be anything, big or small. I first rode my bicycle in Canada(at the time it was a Specialized Rockhopper that now belongs to my brother-in-law) in 1998 as a 13-year-old. I was with a group who rode from Victoria to Lund, a small fisherman's village on the sunshine coast. Ever since then, I have desired to explore more of the Island by bicycle and my desire grew to include the mainland of British Columbia. That desire gave birth to a dream which gave birth to a tangible goal. About 15 years ago I read a journal from a French couple who cycled this route (in 1997) up Vancouver Island, through the Inside Passage, along the Yellowhead Highway and down the Icefields Parkway. I printed that journal off and kept it in my records ever since, periodically perusing it and seeing what advice they gave and how things have changed since then. Fast forward to May 4, 2013: I bought a touring bicycle and the following 3 summers I spent my time cycling down the Pacific Coast, through the Deserts and Canyons of the American Southwest and across the National Parks of Washington, Montana, and Wyoming. The 4th summer I chose not to do a trip due to a complicated life situation but I had set my sights on British Columbia in 2018. My girlfriend at the time (now fiance) gave me the go-ahead and was 100% in support of my dreams. She's a keeper!

What follows is my journal from this trip. It is a rough, unedited, raw journal. So please forgive any discrepancies that may occur. Thank you and I hope you enjoy. These adventures would be quite different without those back home living vicariously through me. I hope to see you all out on the road in the days ahead...

June 23, 2018 (Drive from Salem, OR to Port Angeles, WA, 00.00 miles/00.00 kilometers) - Today's the day! Today was hard - it was especially difficult leaving Elyse. It's been 4 months and today I told her "I loved her" - Our relationship is special and built on a foundation of Christ. I picked her up early and we drove to Mommy and Maddi's for a big hearty breakfast before my trip. The breakfast burrito was so good - it practically lasted me all day in my belly - not sure if that was a good thing or not - I took her back home and we hugged it out tight and more tears flowed - "See you later!" You see, these were tears of missing you but also tears of joy. I was pursuing a dream. I told her about this trip on our second date and she wanted me to do it. Though it would be hard, she was in full support of my dreams! That is one of the many things I love about her.

I went home to pack up and take off. I hope I didn't forget anything - famous last words before a big trip. Bye Mom - off I go again. Dad drove while I rested my eyes and perused my maps and itinerary. We stopped at Subway for lunch and had cookies for a snack. We got our usual dominoes pizza for dinner that evening like we did 4 years ago at the same place in Olympic National Park's Heart 'O the Hills campground just south of Port Angeles. After setting up both tents, we decided to snuggle in one tent for a quick take down in the morning and for a warmer night. I used my big red luxury pillow, something I wouldn't have for quite some time. That evening we went to the ranger program at 7:30pm - "Recipe for a Healthy Forest." It was actually quite interesting and brought me back to science class. Before the sun went down we drove part way up Hurricane Ridge to a lookout to watch the sunset and snap some pictures. We saw a deer who quickly scampered off. Beautiful sights indeed! We drove back down for night night time. My eyes are heavy! Gotta get some sleep to catch an early ferry ride.

June 24 (Port Angeles, WA to Victoria, BC, Canada, 8.17mi/13.14km) - It was a chilly morning - woke up early -  slept uncomfortably on the ground - back hurts - body sore - this is all something I have to get used to in the coming weeks - something's wrong with my stomach and throat and I keep having to poop. Well we packed up the car and headed to the ferry line. I got some breakfast sandwiches at Jack In The Box and iced coffee and waited by the ferry building, ate and unloaded my gear it loaded my bike up... Ready to go! - I checked in and prayed with Dad and give him a big hug before he saw me off - At Last I boarded the ferry Bound for Canada! It's now getting real! I met a guy in line who was from the Port Hardy area who also had a bike with them and assured me it is a great ride up there!

The ferry ride was beautiful - gorgeous weather -chilly and sunny and hot... just how I like it! On board I glided Elyse to let her know I was in route to our Northern neighbor. I took a lot of pictures and enjoyed the ride! The MV CoHo ferry arrived in Victoria and there were Visitors Center people there with maps to greet me! They were very friendly...I think American visitor centers can learn from them. I had to quickly find a bathroom and poop - go figure. I made my way to the visitor center and picked up maps and info to where I'm going, took pictures at the parliament buildings where I ate my pizza and rode to a park to journal and look over my maps. There are a lot of horses and carriages here - and flowers. Elyse would love it here! Victoria is so bike-friendly now! It certainly has improved over the years. My phone was about to die so I put pedal to the metal and road to my hosts house in Saanich via The Galloping Goose Trail, an old rail line. Norm and Mary Gidney are a very nice couple! I resided in a private room with a Bed and bathroom they had made stirfry for dinner. We had some good conversation around the table. Norm had some great knowledge and information about the area I will be riding in and to. They offered some great advice! They put the news on and I journaled before I said good night to my hosts and the cat and went down to my bedroom.

June 25 (Victoria to Duncan, 35.63mi/57.34km) - I woke up early this morning. Actually I kept waking up periodically throughout the night but finally got up and showered and came up for breakfast and coffee with Norman and Mary. We had cereal and fresh berries! Norm gave me advice for currency exchange as well as avoiding the Malahat which is a Highway what's highest elevation right out of Victoria. Show me route would instead take me to Brentwood Bay to take a short ferry to Mill Bay. I snapped my picture of my first hosts and I was off again...

My phone's battery kept running low so I had to be smart about it in order to find my hosts later in Duncan which is not that far away... But first I had to ride towards the Brentwood Bay ferry to avoid the high Malahat on the highway. I had to stop by TD Canada Trust Bank to exchange some us funds because the ferry only accepts cash... I had a heck of a time finding the Interurban road that went up towards the ferry - traffic is pretty heavy on the southern part of the island. I arrived at the Brentwood Bay ferry Terminal about an hour before the next sailing. I meant a lady cyclist from Vancouver who's ridden all over the island so gave me some advice and needed suggestions! The short ferry ride was very pleasant and I was blessed with Gorgeous weather! Lots of sun today... I got sunburned and leaving put some sunscreen on my face! When I left the fairy there was a big hill on the way to Mill Bay. Mill Bay to Coahachian Bay...15% gradient. Duncan... the Rolling Hills kicked my ass - my knees are sore - sides hurt - I seem to be carrying extra weight in my midsection. I need to lose these pounds! Lord Jesus, I pray earnestly that you heal my knees and give me the courage and strength to endure and Conquer this week!

I made it to Duncan to Christopher Clark's house. He and his wife have three young boys. The two eldest invited me to play baseball after dinner. They are very cute kids! I soon set up in their spare room surrounded by Legos and toys!

June 26 (Duncan to Nanaimo, 47.18mi/75.92km) - Today was long and difficult and it began with me finding my bike with a flat. I couldn't find the culprit but the brakes are out of whack so I said my goodbyes to my hosts and went in search of a bike shop - Bike Therapy, a great name for a bike shop! They helped me with my brakes and pumped up my tire but I still think there's a slow leak somewhere...

I came to Chemainus, my old favorite town from 20 years ago, the town of murals! I spent some time here looking around at the murals insights before I made my way north towards Nanaimo - the Island Highway is long and Haley and hot with heavy traffic... I have had a bad headache all day long. I am sunburnt and sweaty and my body aches. Again I slept uncomfortably last night. My evening hosts are leaving the key for me because they are square dancing in Victoria and won't be back until midnight! Man I go through a lot of water on these trips... I did manage to find some fresh strawberries before I came to Chemainus! When I arrived in Nanaimo all beat up and worn out, I found out I have a rash on my groin making it hard to walk. It's just rubbing. The shower help some but I need to change and wash my clothes. I am dreading the next few days if I really want to do this side trip West. Alas, I need to sleep - goodnight!

June 27 (Nanaimo to Port Alberni, 45.72mi/73.57km) - I woke up early and took another shower. It is surprising how much a good night's sleep can do for you! My rash is all but gone too! I met my hosts Bob and Dorothy. They're the nicest couple ever! They are both retired and I have a ton of cycling touring experience between the two of them. They teach square dance lessons and have a dog named Sadie who is half coyote. The mom was a coyote from Northern Alberta. I chatted with them over coffee and toast! We talked about bikes, touring, the Oregon coast, teaching... very cool couple indeed. I told them of my slow leak in my tire and Bob help me repair my rear flat. He used to work in a bike shop... He found a super small hole and cut up an old tube as an extra liner and patched the old one for a spare for me. He is very knowledgeable and knows all the tricks of the trade! I am very grateful for him.

Now I'm off... Lantzville to Coombs... making my way on Highway 4 West to Port Alberni. The hills are not too bad until Port Alberni Summit! I have to come that way again in a few days again to my chagrin. These Hills are kicking my ass... But it's gorgeous weather so I have to keep on The Sunny Side of Life. Beautiful mountains everywhere and lakes! Cameron lake is gorgeous! I made it to Port Alberni and met Serge from couchsurfing.com. he has a teepee in his yard that I can stay in. He just listed it on Airbnb. It's a very unique hospitality accommodation. I chatted with him for a few. It seems like a cool fella. He and his wife have a few dogs and a cute young daughter that ask me questions a mile a minute in my teepee. Serge offered me some dinner of corn and rice and meat. Tomorrow is going to be a tough long day so I better get up early-

June 28 (Port Alberni to Ucluelet, 63.68mi/102.48km) - It was nice to sleep with a big pillow for a change oh, but I didn't want to wake up and get out of bed this morning! I am so tired! I'm not used to riding this much day after day. But I I knew I had a long day ahead of me. I got ready and bid farewell to Serge after he pointed me in the direction of a grocery store to stock up on supplies and groceries. After getting groceries I filled up my bottles at a 7-Eleven and the attendant there was intrigued in my trip I believe. He said he was planning a short one himself with friends. I find that few people asked about or are interested in my travels and who I am. Others seemingly treat me as if I'm an alien or half the plague..."This is not what normal people do!"

Up and down, up and down, up and down... This is what my bike does. Tons of Hills today. I had to push my bike several times. I didn't used to have to do this you know. I used to be easier. It's a hundred kilometers to Ucluelet! It's a sketchy Highway and the fog rolled in... Halfway through the rain started. I pulled over and waterproofed my rig... No shoulder in Parts, rumble strips and others... Reminded me some of the Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier 2 years ago. It's dicey oh, I had to be super cautious. My vision is limited. The Taylor River Rest Area had Wi-Fi but the Kennedy rest area did not. I came to Sutton pass when I encountered an 18% downgrade where I had to ease on my brakes, my back tire isn't looking so great. I finally made it to the Pacific Rim Visitor Center just before it closed at 6:30. It is the crossroads between Tofino and Ucluelet. I wasn't able to enter the park itself but instead decided to head to Ucluelet sopping wet and found a campground and set up camp and took a shower... More than I usually would like to spend to sleep... But oh well. I'm dry more or less. Tomorrow I can sleep in some. It will be more or less a rest day!

June 29 (Ucluelet to Port Alberni via the Lady Rose Marine Services, 7.53mi/12.11km) - Today I woke tomorrow rain hey... I did sleep in, but not a lot. I woke and was forced to pack away my tent sopping wet. I have to dry it out soon. I asked at the campground where the Lady Rose ferry docks at and the lady didn't know anything about it. She called and circled it on the map. Her information turned out to be wrong anyway. I ended up calling the Ferry services later on. I walk in the rain downtown and got some coffee at the market and decided to ride down and quickly hike the Wild Pacific Trail before my boat ride. I had just enough time to do it. I'm glad I did. I locked up my bike and headed out on the trail. Even though it was miserable and overcast, the coast there was rugged and spectacular! This was the first time I've seen the west coast of Vancouver Island.

I boarded the Lady Rose and made sure I took pictures. It's a working cargo vessel. A nice Indian lady took a lot of pics of me too. She told me that I have to remember this journey of mine to take a lot of pictures. This was a pleasant way to end the day back to Port Alberni... traveling through the broken Island group. The captain was pointing out some Islands, eagles and things... Very interesting ride. We docked in Port Alberni at 2:30 p.m. And Serge was happy to have me in his Teepee for another night. It was much appreciated before I headed over the hump again.

June 30 (Port Alberni to Qualicum Bay, 37.32mi/60.06km) - Now I'm back on track! Wow it's been 7 days... Seems longer! I took my time riding over that hump again. Period. It is very steep. Cameron Lake was still as beautiful as I remember! After a four-day side trip I am now on track heading north once again... I decided to head to Qualicum Bay because there's a campground that's a bit cheaper there. My journal entries I getting a bit short... But I'm tired and sore. But alas, I got my crush cream soda! Tomorrow is July 1st, my niece Abby's birthday. It is also Canada day I learned! I might clean my bike this evening and I also dyed my tent out in the sun today. It's always a nice thing when you have a dry tent!

July 1 (Qualicum Bay to Royston, 26.21mi/42.18km) - Happy Canada Day eh!! Today was a short day. I took it easy and rode to a hosts house in Royston. I was riding along the coast and it was still a bit overcast. Everybody was celebrating Canada Day! Flags were everywhere. When I arrived at Richard's place it began to rain. Great timing on my part. He introduced me to Frieda the dog and Nora the puppy and made me a pot of hot coffee out in the gazebo. We chatted a bit before he went off to do some chores. Later he showed me his recumbent bike collection in his shed! It is very impressive! He asked if I ever thought of riding one. I haven't before but I've always thought it would be really cool to someday. Everybody he encounters it seems he makes a believer in recumbent bikes. He gave me a little history lesson on recumbents which was just as interesting. Dinner was delicious and I met his daughter, son-in-law and the toddlers. He asked if I had any kids and of course I don't yet and he basically said I'm in for a big surprise! He was a very friendly gentleman!

I slept out in the hammock in the gazebo with a fire going!... Very cozy indeed. In the middle of the night I woke up freezing so I woke up peed in the garden and got out my sleeping bag and socks!

July 2 (Royston to Campbell River, 34.67mi/55.79km) - Richard made some coffee and omelettes this morning for breakfast! After that, I got my gear together and Richard rode his recumbent with me out through Courtenay a third of the way to Campbell River on Headquarters Road to take me away from the highway! Nice fellow!

There was a terrible head wind today. But alas, no rain! I got to count my blessings! Hot. Sun. Wind. Campbell River- last place to stock up on supplies... Richard gave me his crazy guy on a bike Journal he did a few years ago. You rode part of my ride and gave me some info and pointers along the way! I arrived at James's place and he and Amelia made me feel at home... They made me some delicious dinner and let me take a warm shower and do laundry. Yay for clean clothes!! They left to play Ultimate Frisbee and Courtney and I stayed to finish my laundry and pack for another day and plan my route for tomorrow and Beyond up the island...

July 3 (Campbell River to Strathcona Provincial Park, 49.23mi/79.22km) - I decided to take the plunge and check out the park... Strathcona Park that is... I was undecided at first but I figured I might regret it if I didn't take the site trip. It was a tough day for sure! Slow progress to the park... Very hilly and lots of gravel tracks, Etc. Low shoulders if there were any at all... Not very safe for cyclists to be on! Also it was hot as all get-out. Not a lot of shade very beautiful. The views and snow-capped mountains and lakes and trees and hillsides or also gorgeous. We serve an Incredible God... To think he is the one that made all of this!

I had a pain in my side the whole day and I'm not sure what that was all about. On top of all my saddle hurtness there had to be more pain! Today was certainly a tough one! And the sad thing is I have to do it all again tomorrow. But I know I am Built Tough. I had back to Campbell River but alas a warm shower and bed and hopefully a call from Elyse are waiting for me there!

I'm running out of energy, but I am determined as ever. Elyse's verse for me today hit the spot. He will renew my strength and I will not grow weary. You know, the Eagle One! Oh man I'm zonked. I can't even write straight in this journal... It's nearing 7 p.m. and I may just call it a night! Maybe I'll do some Tent DeVos first. I Saw an Eagle today swoop down right out of the forest in front of me... Incredible!

July 4 (Strathcona Park to Campbell River, 52.60mi/84.65km) - I woke up early at 6 a.m. and broke Camp, filled up my bottles and was on the road by 7 a.m. I made super great time... Downhill most of the way... So much easier going back to Campbell River then coming from. It was a cool morning and a hot afternoon. I'm glad I got an early start. I made it to Campbell River about 12:30 p.m. and found River Sportsman, an outdoor store to buy mosquito Nets for northern BC! I was advised to get them by Richard. I then found a bike path that lead me to Pedal your world where I bought a spare tire and ate at Tim Hortons, kind of like a Dunkin Donuts of Canada. I was told many times that my rear tire won't make it much further so that's why I got a spare. I shopped for groceries at Quality Foods and went and waited for James. He arrived and I took a shower and made a "cabinet special"  which is basically whatever they find in the cabinet this for dinner! At least Skype to me this evening which was a pleasant surprise! I'm going to sleep well tonight... Rest my weary bones. This is my last warm showers and bed for a while...

July 5 (Campbell River to Sayward, 43.87mi/70.60km) -  I bid farewell to James and Amelia and hit the road for Sayward. Highway 19 North out of Campbell River has a few long slow climbs, up and down until it descends into sayward Valley... Wildlife corridors and high winds here... I seem to have low energy today. I didn't want to get out of bed this morning. Maybe that was because I knew it was my last one bed for a while. I also seem to be in a funk. I don't rightly know why... Maybe it's my parents, my future, my ride, my job, my soreness, my energy level... there's just been a lot on my mind lately but that's the great thing about a ride or a walk, they tend to clear your head. I have no service today. I have a lot of time to think... Just trees and the road... No bears today. Not really wanting to pay for camping at Fisher boy RV Park Sayward Junction, maybe I might cycle down the road to see about that free Camp spot I had heard about prepaid. We shall see. I really don't want to move... More Hills manana. there are a lot of mosquitoes tonight.

July 6 (Sayward to Woss, 45.80mi/73.70km) -  Sayward Canyon Hill was no joke! A mighty 12 kilometer Hill Climb to start off the day! Lots of hills on the way to Woss. I passed to rest areas and still no service... But lots of thinking time... And of course the Silverado theme song that's been playing in my head. This is also ample time to worship my Lord! rain comes and goes. It can't make up its mind. I am now officially in Northern Vancouver Island! Saddle sores and rashes equals no good. I need to take better care of myself... I think I'm still in a funk. Woss  is a small logging Village. I finally found the old campground on this long Gravel Road about three miles from the highway. there is no service here which was fine. Tomorrow I had to Port McNeill and Alert Bay... The mosquitoes need to die! Woss Lake is a beautiful spot though I must say! I'm making progress. I need to go inside my tent and air out my privates... Too much information?

July 7 (Woss to Alert Bay, 50.93mi/81.96km) - Today wasn't too bad... Except for the 3 Mile Gravel Road to get back to the highway! I think that was more annoying than anything. I am on to Port McNeill. I will follow nimpkish Lake and up and over Dale and Hill. I'm still sore that goes with the territory... It's also not going away. there is a huge hill down to Port McNeill that I will have to climb back out of later. I missed the 2:20 ferry to alert Bay, so now I have time to grocery shop. The rain began to downpour, cold, Sun, rain, downpour, clouds, miserable, drip. Period. I found a Subway and made the 5:15 ferry to alert Bay. the island has lots of  from the Nangis Indians. This small island is home to the world's tallest totem pole.  there was a hill to alert Bay Campground... Everywhere you go there seems to be a hill in your way. I'm trying to dry my stuff out in the picnic shelter but not being very successful. this was the last thing I wanted to do because I am very tired and sleepy and wiped. Tomorrow is my last day on Vancouver Island in my last full day in stage one!  hopefully I can get some shut-eye tonight regardless of the rain and mosquitoes.

July 8 (Alert Bay to Port Hardy, 31.45mi/50.61km) - Sometime during the night my watch must have reset itself because it said 8 when I got up but was really like 6... that would explain why the town wasn't moving and I was so dang tired! So needless to say I had some time to kill before my ferry. I found an outlet in the waiting area at the ferry dock to charge my phone... then I boarded the ferry at 9:35 a.m. Back to Port McNeill I went.  before continuing on North I stocked up on groceries and water, then went back up the Hill to the highway. The road to Port Hardy was pretty nice, not too many Hills OH, a few but mostly rolling and more Greenery and flowers on the side but still no bears...

 Port Hardy at last!!! 500 kilometers from Victoria! I went down to check out the ferry terminal wishing I could just camp out next to it but then I rode back to Wildwoods campsite which is only about three miles away. But I have to get up at Zero Dark Thirty to catch my 6 a.m. ferry ride up north. After setting up camp I set my alarm at 4 a.m. because I have to be at the ferry terminal by 5:30 a.m. crazy! Last night on Vancouver Island! I pray for no rain tonight or any bike issues and a quick sleep and a fast risen body!

July 9 (Port Hardy to Prince Rupert via the Inside Passage, 3.57mi/5.74km) -  I woke up at 4 a.m. to my alarm and broke camp in road to the ferry terminal and got my prepaid ticket. things seem so much easier when you write a bicycle as opposed to motor vehicle. I started boarding at 6 a.m. sharp. I went to the purser's office on board to get my Aurora Lounge seat to check in. Let me just tell you, it was so worth it to get a seat in the private Lounge area and eat the buffets. I needed to splurge and take this much-needed break! I deserve this as a weary cyclist! Can I get an amen?! The breakfast food and dinner food was amazing and even the lunch that I paid for what's good... The staff was fabulous as well. The Inside passage was outstanding. I saw a school of seals eating breakfast, some dolphins, whales squirting, cruise ships, lighthouses, sunset, the Sun sets later up here because I am further north. this is the largest boat I have been on... The Northern Expedition is its name. It is practically cruise ship. the boat stopped in Bella Bella to get some off and others on which took a while. I took tons of pictures... Seems so surreal I'm here... Tomorrow is going to hit me like a ton of bricks because I have to ride again. This has been such a nice and pleasant break from the saddle! I could really stare at this water and these islands and fjords all day. The world is so big. So much to explore... Part of me wants to be home, and part just wants to keep on exploring. I watched part of catch-me-if-you-can in The Raven Lounge on board.

The ferry arrived in Prince Rupert at about 11:30 p.m. and we had to wait until all the vehicles were unboarded first, then the foot passengers were allowed to unload. I meant another cyclist, a mountain biker from California riding up to the Arctic. I was the last off the boat and quickly found my campsite after midnight and set up well after 1 a.m. snooze time...