Ever since about May 2012 I have been wanting to get back into bicycle touring and make it more of a lifestyle by riding more. My first step was to research, find and purchase a new bicycle suited for touring. After much debacle and digging through articles and reviews, I landed upon the Fuji Touring Bike. On May the 4th, 2013 I made my purchase at the Willamette Cyclery in Sherwood.
Throughout the following year I would ride, ride and ride my new bicycle to break it in and get used to its antics and mechanics. I would research and purchase much of my gear such as rear panniers, handlebar bag, bike computer, my hydro flask which proved to be invaluable, my hydro pack from osprey and countless other tidbits of kit that I deemed necessary. During this year I would also discuss in length my travel dreams with my then-current roommate. I knew that planning was often just as fun as the trip itself. I adore pouring over maps with a cup of Joe, highlighting my route and researching campsites and points of interest. I possess a large collection of maps and enjoy gazing at them, dreaming of adventure.
Shortly after my bicycle purchase, in the summer of 2013, I received a message of a good friend in Houston, Texas whom I lived with for 8 weeks two years prior. His message was an affirmative yes to accompany me on such an adventure. I had planned to travel solo unless I could find someone else to come with me. I had not counted on a SAG vehicle that my friend had offered. At this time I still wasn't sure which direction I was headed in. The Pacific Coast was only one trip among many that I thought of doing first. When my friend whom I often referred to as "Texas Jeff" to my roommate so he would know who I was talking about, told me, "I have never seen giant California Redwoods," it was settled. When I heard those words, I knew the Pacific Coast Highway would be my road. Every month, sometimes more frequently, we would talk on the phone and getting excited for this journey we were about to embark on. I even bought a pair of two-way radios for us to use to keep in contact with. I also purchased my very first smart phone a few weeks before the trip for travel reasons. I have put a title to this trip: Perfect Circles. A perfect circle refers to one full perfect motion of the wheel as it turns...one stroke, one perfect circle at a time. To begin with, I wanted another purpose for this trip rather than just doing it. Using my dream to start a camp, I thought it may be a great opportunity to fund raise. This led me to start this blog as well as a fund raising site. I am not new to fundraising, but it has been a while and I have not raised funds for a trip like this before. In respects to fundraising, the trip was a failure, but in respects to adventure it was a success. It wasn't because people did not know. They did. I was sure people knew because they even asked about how it was going. Well, in the end, I raised a total of $20 in one year. I guess I wasn't cut out for that sort of thing. Well, I may try something new the second go around. This "Perfect Circles" endeavor I hoped to be the first in a series of bicycle adventure trips to raise awareness/funds for the start of a Christian camp or bicycle adventure ministry program. I may have to recruit a marketing person. All is not lost. I press on towards the goal.
Anyhow, the months flew on by and the time to depart was drawing near. My excitement was growing. I feared some of what I would encounter, but my excitement for adventure outweighed any fear. Something unexpected happened next. Just 2 months before my scheduled departure date, I got a call while perusing in our local REI. It was a devastated "Texas Jeff" calling to tell me he could no longer do the trip this summer. He and his wife were pulled to do something else. This hit me like a ton of bricks. After I composed myself, I quickly had to revamp my planning. For the past 7 months I had planned in light of having a support guy, but that was no longer a possibility. In the end, my Dad was able to drive me to Port Angeles, WA and was able to accompany me for the first week to get me tour-ready. A week before my departure date, I had a few friends over and my Dad barbecued. It was a little farewell get together. We ate, laughed, prayed and they gave me a few gifts which included some energy snacks and a compass which was symbolic of my lack of directional sense.
So this was my initial plan: Drive up to Port Angeles, Washington (I had originally planned Port Townsend as the starting point, but figured this would be more ideal), camp in Olympic before cycling towards the Pacific and straight down the coast all the way to the Mexican Border. Then, I would begin my return journey north through Joshua Tree, the Mojave Desert, Kings Canyon, Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, Crater Lake and back home via central Oregon. If you want to hear God laugh, tell Him your plans. He certainly laughed at me. This was quite the plan and I hadn't really left much buffer room. It was a good thing the Mojave Desert was no longer in my plans as you will see, because I no longer had support. The school year was extended by a few days due to snow days and the year came to a close. Two days later it was Father's Day, June 15:
June 15 (Drive from Salem to Port Angeles to Heart o' the Hills @ Olympic National Park & Hurricane Ridge, 00.00 miles) - After hugging my Mom good bye, my Dad and I were off on the road. The drive up was pretty boring I must admit. The drive from Salem to Washington is the most un-scenic of drives. That is until you turn off of I-5 and traverse your way to the Olympic Peninsula with views of the Puget Sound and Olympic Mountains. That is where the majestic happens. We quickly waved to my brother who was leading a trip up the staircase in the national park at the moment we were passing. After arriving, we found a bike shop (Sound Bikes and Kayaks) and entered to inquire of the local area and maybe pickup a few maps. That has always seemed to be my problem, as well as my Dads. We tend to acquire way too many maps and travel information. That is one good thing about having a support vehicle: you can store all your junk that you acquire in there, like maps, etc. When he left, I would have to be more careful and proactive about this fetish. It sure was cold up here. I just wasn't used to the cool breeze off of the sound, and later the ocean. We couldn't come all this way and not visit Hurricane Ridge. We made the 17-mile drive up the Hurricane to be even more amazed. The Hurricane never ceases to inspire awe. As we hiked, we were bundled up because it sure was cold. Temperatures dropped to below freezing. It was fun hiking along the snow banks. We saw a few Olympic marmots...or was it the same one? A deer or two even showed up. When we arrived to the car, wouldn't you know it? The battery was dead. My Dad, as the driver neglected to turn off the lights because he was used to automatic light shut off. We were lucky because there were a few other folks there who help us jump it. They had to interrupt their bird feeding and photography. That night, we set up camp in Heart o' the Hills campground, our 'ole favorite from growing up. Since it had been raining, all the wood was wet. We scrounged around for twigs and semi-dry wood. This is after all the only place in the United States that is a rain forest. We did get a fire going and we were so proud of ourselves. It wasn't until then we noticed the Domino's pizza box sitting on the picnic table. We ate pizza earlier and forgot about the box. We could've used that to start the fire dang it! But alas, we started a fire with wet wood. Boo-yah! Good night...big day tomorrow.
Happy Father's Day! Thanks Dad for being there.
June 16 (Port Angeles to Forks, 66.20 miles) -The next morning we packed up and drove to the port to view the water. This is where I would begin my odyssey. On the boardwalk we met a cute girl with a fully-loaded touring bike heading to San Francisco. We shared with her some of our knowledge of routes, etc. to get her off on the right track. I never did get her name so we later referred to her as "Blue Top," because she was wearing a bright blue tank top. When I was ready to go, I still had to install my brand new Terry Liberator saddle that I purchased...yesterday. Talk about a last minute buy! This saddle made all the difference though. I was in luck. I rode away from the car and followed a truck route to begin. This truck route ended up being all uphill. What a great start to a bike trip! I left my rain jacket in the car because my Dad suggested I leave it because it was warm and I'd just get too hot riding. Well, you know what's coming next...rain, and a lot of it. About an hour or so later I had to pull over in the down pour because my tires were making this awful rubbing sound and it made it difficult to brake. I tried to call Dad with my phone, but through the case and with the rain, I couldn't make it through. There wasn't much of a place to pull over and find shelter either. I played some with my tire and made it down the road further. When it dried up some I came to the entrance of this park and sat on a curb to finish fixing my bike. A hitchhiker approached and I got to talking with him some and before he left he wished me luck with my bike problems. I lost about an hour of riding time to fix my bike. When I finally got it so I could at least ride, Dad was for sure worried at this point. He was somewhere further down the road waiting for me as he would in increments at a time. We finally reunited and my bike was much better.
The Olympic Discovery Trail that would eventually run from Port Townsend to the somewhere on the coast caught my attention and I thought it best to try to stay off Hwy 101 and on the trail as much as possible. Lake Crescent was a tricky area. The hwy to the south was a 12-mile death trap for cyclists, so I decided to trust my luck and explore the discovery trail to the north. My Dad went south in the car and I to the north on my bike. My tent and sleeping bag were in the car to ease some of the weight of my load. Our plan was to use the radios to keep in touch. The wooded areas made it next to impossible to do so. I found the trail which was confusing at first and then became frustrated because the trail was more of a very rugged, very narrow mountain bike trail that I was unsure of so I made an executive decision to turn back. I was finally able to get through on the radio to Dad briefly to inform him of the situation. There was a button to push that would flash for an hour to let motorists know there are cyclists on the hwy hugging Lake Crescent. It was a beautiful lake. There were a few times that I would have to stop and hug the railing as to not get splattered by a passing semi. There was no shoulder and I quickly realized why folks advised against traveling this way. But believe it or not, I had in my mind that it was a lot worse. People always make things out to be worse than they really are. It did go by fast and I was on the other side quickly. During this first leg, I had been using a bicycling app called Strava that tracks my progress using GPS. It is an amazing feature, but it drains my battery more than anything so after these first few legs, I decided against it and kept my phone off or on airplane mode to preserve the battery life and only used it when I needed it.
My first destination was Forks, WA. It was a quaint little town and filming location of the Twilight films which I could quickly forget about. After all the delays, I pulled into Forks when the sun was going down and my Dad, who was not riding a bike was wondering where I was. He was waiting at an RV park in town. Well, I actually would've been there sooner, but my knees, both of them, were killing me and I was forced to walk some to give them a rest. But alas, I made it in one piece and it was a rough but good first day.
June 17 (Forks to Willaby Campground @ Quinault Lake, 68.16 miles) - Today ended up being slightly further. Truth be told, there isn't a lot to see on this route in Washington. I haven't even seen the coast yet and this is supposed to be the coast route. I think someone even warned me about this section of road as being quite boring. Boy, was he ever right! It did have it's moments though. This morning I met Mike who was emerging from a nearby park where I needed to stop to use the bathroom. He was headed to San Francisco and I shared with him my plans and told me about his blog. He took my picture and told me he may mention me. A few times down the road, Dad had thought he saw Mike, but it ended up not being him. I never did see him down the road. I trust he made it to San Fran okay. I am not the fastest rider. Most people tend to pass me up. But that's okay. It's all about the journey...smelling the smells and seeing the sights and burning the calories!
Finally, the coast! Ruby Beach and a few other waysides. Don't get excited, whereas I did reach the beach, the beach is a relative term. I didn't realize people could actually own the beach. What's great about Oregon is that they passed a bill long ago stating that all 365 miles of coast line be open and accessible to the public...not so in Washington and California. Although, Dad and I got our traditional road fuel...doughnuts! They were delicious! It was on this stretch of road that I noticed a spider hitching a ride from me as well as an inch worm that was very talkative. I had to strike up a conversation with it. You know, it gets quite lonely on the open road, especially on the Washington coast where there is little to no scenery to gaze upon. A humming bird also flew out of nowhere and gave me quite the startle.
On and on I rode through the boring rolling hills of Washington. This coastline sucks. When will I get to Oregon where they know the meaning of "coast?" Ah, lunchtime. We met at a beach overlook and sat down on some benches to eat a hearty lunch of chicken and potato salad with a cookie for dessert. Thanks Mom! At times on the road, I would ride 10 or so miles and see my Dad pulled over. I would take a break and eat whatever was in the car haha. Most of the time I felt as though he was over feeding me. I had to poop a lot. I do need to eat a lot to maintain energy levels and replenish those burned calories, but there's only so much I can eat man! But it was good! Thanks for your support Dad. Next up was the Quinault Indian Reservation. I thought I was through the boring parts. But then I come here. Not only do I travel away from the coast, I travel on this straight road for about 30 miles and see nothing but bumpy road and forest on my left and right. There were no services, almost no cars which was great, and no one here...nothing...it seemed endless. My phone died half way across the reservation and so did strava. Today finally came to a close and we made camp at Willaby Campground at the end of Quinault Lake. We were fighting mosquitoes all night. Well, not all night, we took a break to head to the lake and ate a dinner provided by my Mom yet again. This time it was delicious home-made chili! I was relieved the second day was over because my knees were killing me yet again. I adjusted my bike seat some to help, but they were in real need of some rest and relaxation.
June 18 (Quinault Lake to Cosmopolis & Artic RV Park, 47.19 miles + 3 in car to park) - This was the day that would change everything. The third day must be the day where you really feel the saddle sores. They sure did hurt. I needed time to break my bum in so to speak. Traveling south on the 101, my right ankle became sore as well as my left knee. On top of that, riding made my fingers become numb. I wasn't sure if it was just pressure on the handlebars, or what. But regardless, I had ailments and ailments that would not ease up. However, I pressed on because I had progress to make. The more I rode, the more my right ankle pestered me. I stopped a few times and looked at my ankle and tilted my head in wonder. I have not experienced this type of pain before. I kept riding. It hurt more. I paid it no never mind. Surely it would go away.
At long last I made it to the towns of Hoquiam and Aberdeen. The bridges there were terrible - ahhhh! Terrible infrastructure. There was one bridge into Aberdeen where I was walking my bike on the side which ended at a complete dead end stone wall. What the heck? I was forced to walk back and when I found a moment through the heavy traffic, I dashed to the other side and made it across the bridge where my Dad was waiting for me. These towns were confusing. I mentioned my ankle pain to my Dad and he told me to take it easy and keep an eye on it. Shortly there after we came to Cosmopolis and ate lunch at this small convenience store/diner. I had the Teriyaki Pork. While eating lunch in our booth, I put my leg up to rest my Achilles which hurt like the Dickens as they say. At this point I was getting worried. After lunch I rode some more until it hurt too much to ride. I dismounted and had to walk up this long hill. I only made it part way up out of Cosmopolis when I had to stop because it even hurt to walk. I deliberated giving Dad a call. I really did not want to because I wanted to do the whole thing under my own power. Back in town, he even offered to drive me to Artic where we found a nice bicycle-friendly RV Park. However, I declined because I was determined to complete this leg. Anyhow, I broke down and had no choice but to make the call. I found a little pull out to sit down and rest while I waited to be picked up. I was devastated. It's bringing tears to my eyes just recalling these events. I still had a long ways to go up the hill, so it's a good thing I stopped when I did. At Artic RV Park (which boasts "bicycles welcome"), the lady that ran the place was very nice and offered some ice for my ankle and knee. I sat down in camp, iced both my knee and ankle and my Dad and I talked about what's next...discussing my options. I only had one option...ride down the coast. Or at least that's what I thought. I went online and got a lot of advice about Achilles injuries, etc. Throughout this whole ordeal, I learned a lot more about Achilles and other bicycle related injuries than I have before. That night, I elevated my leg and got some much needed rest to see how it would feel in the morning.
June 19 (Drive - Artic to Kelly's Brighton Marina RV Park) - The next morning was a relaxing one. I knew I wasn't going to be doing much riding so we took it easy, dried out some of my gear and continued to ice my ankle and knee. I looked like a mess. Dad did not need to be back home until Friday so we had a few days time. We decided that the best thing for us to do is to drive down the coast so I could stay on schedule all the while icing my Achilles. It really felt like I strained it good...like it was stretching every time I moved it...the muscle was out of place. But I did not break anything and it was not permanently injured, or at least I hope it wasn't. So, we drove. It was a different aspect being in the car. I did not want to be in the car. I wanted to be on the saddle. But this was what I had to do. Plans were changed...
The drive from Artic south was hard. I wasn't supposed to be in a car, but on a bike. We did have a great time in Raymond seeing all the man made structures out of metal. Those were very cool and they were all over the town! We stopped by the Columbia River overlooking the Astoria bridge so I could take down my bike and test ride it. After a few rides, my Achilles still hurt too much to continue at present. When we were about to leave, guess what? "Blue Top," the cute gal from the port showed up on her bike and we said hello. We told her my predicament and she suggested to get an ankle brace. So, we gave some consideration into that and planned to look for a pharmacy because we had to pick up some pain killers anyway. After searching for a place to stay, googling, looking up warmshowers hosts, etc. we were getting frustrated, or rather my Dad was. But God was on our side and we happened upon Kelly's Brighton Marina RV Park for the night. The rain came so we hurried to set up the tent. The following morning we dried everything out while I continued to ice and rest my Achilles.
June 20 (Drive - Kelly's Brighton Marina to Devil's Lake State Park to Salem home) - After everything was dry or at least close to it, we continued to drive south so I could stay on schedule were I to continue on my bike. We made it to Devil's Lake State Park outside Lincoln City. We went to a side street for me to attempt to ride my bike to see how I feel. After a few go arounds, I came back to my Dad with pain in my ankle. It still hurt very badly. I had a decision to make and with that decision came tears. I broke down and wept because I knew, I knew in my heart that this was the best thing to do...go home. I felt terrible. I was sick to my stomach. The drive home was silent. How could it have come to this? I was in awe of what happened...and what will happen next I wondered...
June 22-27 - Camping at Rainbow Falls State Park with family.
June 28 - July 7 - Rest & Relaxation at home.
June Twenty-nine: I cannot believe it has only been two weeks. God has a funny way of changing the plans of man. Alas, man has no plans, but pieces to a broken puzzle.
Enter - the ACHILLES INHIBITION (I wrote this piece a few weeks after my initial start, so please forgive me for the repeated segments)
Two weeks ago from today, I was on the road to Port Angeles to begin what was going to be an amazing 3500 mile bicycle odyssey down the Pacific Coast and through the Mojave Desert and Sierra Nevada Mountains. However, things didn't go according to plan. After just three 60-70 mile days on the Olympic Peninsula traversing the National Park and Forest and fathoming at the lack of awesomeness in the Quinault Indian Reservation and after the terrible bridges of Hoaquim and Aberdeen I arrived slowly to Cosmopolis with not only some aches and pains, but an injury as well. Whereas my knees have been aching, I acquired a mysterious pain at the end of my heel and below my calf. At first I thought nothing of it because I have never had a pain there in my entire life. It was just an annoying pain that should vanish shortly. It did not. With three miles left to travel to my lodging at Artic RV Park (which boasts "bicycles welcome") I had no choice but to have my Dad (who was to be my support guy for the first 5 days or so to get me started) get me and drive me the rest of the way. That was Wednesday, June 18th. I wanted so much to push through and finish that day. It kills me not to complete something.
When we arrived, the host lady was nice and brought me some ice for my Achilles tendon and also my left knee.
I looked like a wreck. My spirits were not down though. I just thought I should rest and take some ibuprofen and see how it feels the next day. The next day I had to make it to Astoria whether I rode or or got a ride. One way or the other we were headed south. Meanwhile, I posted my predicament online and through the course of the evening and next day I received quite a lot of advice, some of it differing, some of it helpful. Needless to say, I know a lot more about Achilles injuries and bicycle-related injuries and remedies than I did before. The next day I made the decision to rest more and get a ride south. We drove through Raymond, a cool little town filled with hundreds of metal sculptures. Further south, past South Bend we came to Cape Disappointment, which I thought was fitting given the circumstances. After some brief sights of the ocean, we arrived to the Astoria bridge and stopped to view it and test my bike after resting all day. A female cyclist who I can only refer to as "Blue Top" because I never caught her name met us before the bridge to say hello. We first met her in Port Angeles. She was on her way to San Francisco at the time but now her plans had changed because she wanted to see the Columbia Gorge. Anyway, she exclaimed that she had a similar problem and just put on a compression brace that seemed to help a lot and recommended us to find a pharmacy and ask about braces. We took her up on that advice and several pharmacies later, finally purchased an ankle brace and some naproxen to help with the pain.
From Astoria, we continued south to 1) help me to stay on schedule and 2) find some place to camp that night. We arrived in Tillamook and stopped briefly at the Cheese Factory to sample some cheese all the while limping along. It hurt even to walk. The whole while I had my head against the window dreaming of riding. I was watching all the sights pass by, the sights I would've seen on my bike, the road markers and ocean views. I missed it. My Dad asked, "You miss it, don't you?" All I could do was nod. After a cloudy and rainy evening at a marina, the next day we finally arrived in Lincoln City and made our way to Devil's Lake State Park which I knew had hiker/biker sites. Thank goodness for the glorious Oregon Coast. It was here, on Friday, June 20th, the day before the summer solstice that my Dad was heading back home. I had a decision to make. I either was going to be left at the park to rest my leg for a few days and see how it felt...or head home with my Dad. It was a decision I did not want to make, a decision I did not see coming. But alas, it was here. We found some side streets to test out my bike once more. And after a pause and knowing I had to make a decision quickly, I told my Dad that it just hurts too much and I...I couldn't finish, I just broke down into tears. This was a dream journey that was 2-years in the making...and after just 3 days it's cut short? But why? What are you teaching me through this Lord? This is hard. This hurts.
It was mostly silent on the drive back to Salem. This trip was surreal but now it was surreal that I was returning. It still is. I had no other plans for the summer. I wasn't supposed to be back. I was supposed to be on an adventure and return with spectacular pictures, memories and experiences...not this, not like this...I felt defeated.
My sister's family was in town and I was excited to spend some time with my nieces and they were excited to see their uncle. Over the next week until Friday, June 27th we all went camping in Washington, only about 30 miles from where I was to ride my bike the week prior. Camping was a lot of fun even through the rain and cold. Fires and s'mores and games were a plenty. It was a much needed relaxation for my foot. It still hurt, but with every day it has been feeling better. Praise God! When I came home it was nice to spend some time in an actual bed, something I haven't experienced in 2 weeks. I had to let me roommate know what was going on because I would be in and out of my apartment. I couldn't exactly stay there full time because someone was renting my room. Yay money! I really had no desire to update or tell people I was back. I did, to those who inquired, but honestly I did not know what to say. It not only hurt physically, but emotionally as well.
It is now the penultimate day of June and I am still in the process of sorting through my things and drying out my tent and patching my sleeping pad, etc. So what shall I update? What shall I say? I should be in the Redwoods by now exploring large trees. I was asked what my plans are for the Fourth of July. Well, I have none. I was to be in San Francisco by then. Well, here's the deal. I still have to get back on my bike and go on a few rides with my panniers to see how my legs feel. I no longer feel the need to go to the doctor because my heel is noticeably getting better. It is not perfect. I still can feel it here and there, but the stretching of it is diminished and I may need some more rest.
So, with some packing issues and biking issues, I will also be looking at a map and try to figure out if I can do a modified bicycle adventure. Not sure where that entails...I could head from here to San Francisco and cut across to Yosemite and Tahoe and back up. I could cycle further south and catch a bus up given time or meet someone mid way to drive up. I don't know. It could be as early as July 1st, or it could be a few weeks down the road. I do not know exactly where or when yet, but I do know that God has me in His plans. I do not know what the future holds, but I know who holds the future and me in His arms. Thanks for praying and keeping invested...my cycling days are far from over and adventure is just waiting...it waits until I am ready...my circles are not perfect yet...but I trust they soon will be...Perfect Circles now and forever...all is not lost. Pray, seek, ride, and find your own adventure this summer...
In Retrospect - As hard as it was to cut my ride short due to my Achilles injury, I now look back on it as a blessing in disguise. I went home, camped with my family and rested and relaxed and took care of myself until I made the decision to begin again on July 8th in Lincoln City where I left off. I wasn't going to be able to do the entire trip down and up so I first had a thought of riding south to San Francisco, then cut over to Yosemite and Tahoe to make for a shorter loop. As I will mention later, when I made it to San Fran, I made the decision to ride the entire coast to Mexico and figure out how to get home later. This was a blessing in disguise because I'm not sure if I would've made it to San Fran by Independence Day anyway without pushing it really hard. Also, I planned the trip with really not much buffer and without a support guy to accompany me, the return trip would be killer. Therefore, in retrospect my tears had turned into small splashes of blessings. God is always up to something and He only shares it with us when we are ready...
