Friday, March 27, 2015

In praise of the bicycle


In praise of the bicycle

by Alastair Humphreys


Ladies and Gentlemen, if I could offer you only one tip for the future, travelling by bicycle would be it. Cycling is the best way to experience a country and a culture. I am well aware that I am biased: I have spent five years of my life cycling through over 60 countries on five continents. I have a passion for travel and adventure. And I have a real passion for encouraging people to try travelling by bike. Consider then these advantages that bike journeys have over conventional backpacking adventures:
  • Cycling is cheap, as cheap as you want it to be! Once, riding through Argentina, I met a French backpacker. As we chatted he became envious of my experiences. So I persuaded him to buy a cheap bike and a tent in the local market. And then we set off on a very spontaneous adventure together. We rode to Bolivia. Fabien calculated that, just two weeks after buying the bike and tent, he was already saving money compared to using buses and budget accommodation. If you cycle and camp then you remove the two biggest backpacking expenses: transport and accommodation.
  • Don’t you hate it when the train you are travelling on passes through stunning scenery and all you can do is watch it whizz by through the window? On a bike you are living, breathing, hearing and smelling every mile of countryside. Yes, you will be moving slowly, but that becomes a joy in itself: the journey is the reward. Your trip becomes more than just ticking off a list of must-see sights. It’s the places in between that forge the strongest memories.
  • Tourist hotspots often attract con-men, pickpockets, touts, or just inflated prices. Get off the beaten track and people stop treating you as a tourist. People are curious about who you are and where you are from, and they usually want to show off their country in the best possible light. Arrive in a village in the middle of nowhere by bicycle, and the effect is magnified! People may laugh at you and think you are mad, but they will be curious, amused, impressed, fascinated, and eager to welcome you. The kindness I received on my bike journeys was amazing and humbling, whether that was in Azerbaijan, Belgium and Chile, or Xinijiang, Yugoslavia or Zimbabwe.
  • You will get fitter than you have ever been and more tanned than you can imagine. The breeze on your face and the freedom of the road are so much nicer than being squashed on a bus playing loud kung-fu movies in a language you cannot understand.
  • Cycling round the world is so much better for the environment than a round the world air ticket.
  • Journeys by bike are more unusual, exciting, rewarding, challenging and fun than backpacking trips.
I’m going to finish by countering your immediate reasons why you’re going to say that travelling by bicycle is not for you:
  1. “I’m not fit enough and it sounds like hard work…” Start slowly – you are not racing anybody, and within a week or so you will feel yourself becoming so much stronger. And use this excuse as a reason to stop frequently to explore villages or chat to farmers in the fields. The slower you travel, the more memorable the experience. There’s no hurry.
  2. “It’s dangerous (especially alone or for females)…” There is a small risk to all of our travels. On a bike the biggest danger is from traffic, but I feel safer on my bike than I do in many of the world’s crazy, high speed, ramshackle buses with loud horns and dodgy brakes (you know the ones I’m talking about!). In terms of risk from other people, my experience is that 99% of the time you are treated better and more warmly when cycling than when backpacking. Females worrying about the dangers of travelling by bike should read the books of Anne Mustoe, Josie Dew, Dervla Murphy et al.
  3. “I hate camping…” Then consider riding in countries where you can easily reach a town to stay in each evening. Or look at a company such as Cycling for Softies (http://www.cycling-for-softies.co.uk) to ease you towards a more challenging journey.
  4. “I can’t mend a puncture…” Nor could Anne Mustoe, and she cycled all the way round the world twice! Bicycles, and bicycle repair stalls can be found in nearly every village in most parts of the world – you are never too far from someone who can fix your bike for you.
So, are you tempted to explore the world on a bicycle? I urge you to consider cycling even for a small part of your next adventure. If not, let me know why in the comments. If you are keen, feel free to ask post any questions you may have in the comments section and I’ll do my best to answer them for you.
But trust me on the bicycle…

Thursday, March 26, 2015

Pacific Coast, part 7: Klamath Falls to Salem, Oregon

August 9 (Klamath Falls to Hagelstein County Park, 23.57 miles) - Well, I got another wonderful night of rest - maybe too wonderful. After sleeping in a bed with an actual pillow and blankets I seem to awake groggy and almost weak - like it throws off my whole routine or groove. I get so used to the life of sleeping on the ground and riding, riding, saddle sores, hurtness, knees, riding, no showers, smelly, etc...that when I am given luxuries like a warm shower, comfortable bed or a great meal, it throws me for a loop if you know what I mean. Maybe that's why I got a bit dizzy today - that and the obnoxious heat.

After sleeping in, I awoke to a quiet house - man Jim Calvert has a wonderful little lodge in the hills. I took a shower, nursed my big toe with neosporin and a band-aid, gathered up my gear and worked again on my bike. Man, Flanders really screwed up my bike some - I mean I know they had to because it had to be boxed up for me to board the train and all, but it sure can be a mess to put it back together. After Jim fixed it up, I had to adjust the front tire and handle bars. Well, I had to adjust the tires a mile or two down the road. However, the part that got me the worst was the handlebar bag attachment piece. That wasn't supposed to be uninstalled dang it! It beats me why they did it - probably to get to the handlebars themselves - poop. It was never the same until I finally arrived home.

After grocery shopping at Safeway (I had virtually nothing after eating all my bagels on the train) - Yay, bagels and donuts! Road fuel! Gotta love the diet of a touring cyclist. I found only one bike shop in town - Hutch's Bicycles - Long story short, my handlebar is good and tight and will get me down the road. Although, it hangs down a bit too much...I'll have to fix it later. But it'll do for now. I filled up my bottles with ice water, got a cone and was finally on the road leaving K-Falls, even though Jim's dog didn't want to see me go...he was a fun dog! Well, after several miles on 97, I was feeling a bit dizzy, probably due to the wonderful night's sleep, and late start, I know, crazy right! Small shoulder and fast cars and desert heat might have something to do with it too. I don't have the nice cool breeze off the ocean. A motorcycle honked long and hard and caused me to crash into the side. I never thought I'd miss California so soon. More cars have honked at me in Oregon than all my time in California. Hmm...There's no "Share the Road" signs here. Sad. Well, it was already about 2 or 3 in the afternoon when I came across a county park just off the highway to the right. I was about 10 miles north of Klamath Falls. I chose to rest here for today and push onto Crater Lake manana. I have some wiggle room. There was one old man here at one of the sites that looked like he'd been here way too long. I asked him about the park and he said, choose a site, it's free. So that's what I did. I slept under the stars until about 10:00 I woke up to set up my tent, not because of the cold. It was quite warm. But the bugs were insane. The bugs here may eat/annoy me to death, but I'm good. Another night spent under the stars.

August 10 (Hagelstein to Diamond Lake via Crater Lake, 71.00 miles) - There's never a dull moment while on adventure! Just today: bunnies, deer, bug and spider infestation on tent and bike, hot weather, cool thunder storm, majestic lightning, 6-mile downhill, Klamath Lake, Crater Lake, Diamond Lake, sun, rain, snow, chipmunk (man who didn't know what it was), dead skunk, bicycle traveler (Linda) cycling from Grand Canyon - went thru Yellowstone to Southern California, honked at, turned away from Mazama Campsite, hit in the face by flying rock in loose gravel section - terrible road...What will tomorrow bring I wonder? Oh, I know, adventure!

I awoke to a massive bug and spider infestation - gross! They were all over the tent and bike. I had to swap the towel at the and shake off the tent. Crazy thing. I decided to get an early start to beat the heat here in Central Oregon. On my way, I got honked at yet again...not doing a damn thing wrong! Drivers suck.

I finally made it to Crater Lake. I haven't been here since I was about 10 or 12 - good to be back, at least briefly! I met Linda cycling up through the gravel. She was another "long-hauler" as she called them. She was loaded down for sure with four panniers and then some. She was cycling from the Grand Canyon on way to Southern California. She told me she hadn't seen another "long-hauler" since Yellowstone. That's a ways! I kept my head down whenever a car passed on the gravel because when I entered the park I got hit in the face by a flying rock. These autos have no respect for the little guy. The Mazama Campground is full and the English Park Ranger lady denied me camping privileges. Dang it, it's a right, not a privilege. I can't help but think of the 'ole cowboys or Lewis and Clark - if they were to look forward in time - "What? You pay to sleep in the woods?" Ridiculous, right?! But Crater Lake is a magnificent place. It was as amazing as I remembered it being. I stopped in the lodge to fill up my water bottle with fresh water from the lake! Thirst quencher! As I was looking across at the lake, a man saw a rodent and asked, "Is that a chipmunk?" The woman with him said, "Yah, I think so." Then after awhile, "That's a chipmunk right?" I had a little laugh at that. Did you pay to argue about what a chipmunk is...or the lake in front of you? Hello...forget the chip and take a gander at the massive lake! On my way out, I saw a deer, actually a few deer...and thunder and lightning and a 6-mile downhill road. Excellent, a metal bike speeding down a hill in the middle of a lightning storm. Awesome. Actually, it was exhilarating. Wow, it was getting dark. I had to make up some time - race against time to figure out where to sleep before nightfall.

At the 138 crossroads, I had a decision to make. Do I head left to Diamond Lake and trust my luck or do I head east into the Forest Service and trust my luck? After a few moments of deliberating, I chose Diamond Lake - glad I did too, except for that downhill I'd have to climb the next morning. But what's one more hill really? I've had more than my share this summer. Wouldn't you know it? Diamond Lake now has hike/bike camps...really nice ones too, secluded from the rest with a nice bathroom building. For free too I suppose. I had a wonderful quiet night to myself. What a day today has turned out to be...tomorrow, more adventure...woohoo.

August 11 (Diamond Lake to Cy Bingham County Park, 51.44 miles) - It was a bit chilly this morning as is expected with Diamond Lake. It is at about 6,000 feet. Near here at Cascade Summit I believe I took a picture where I did 9 years ago, except this time there is an additional sign stating the county. Things do change, but it's interesting seeing the changes and going to those places again. Well, after the long uphill battle outside the lake, was a very long (prob. another 6 miles) downhill reward. After that it was practically all flat - hot and flat with no shade! It went by pretty fast though and I saw a few more touring cyclists today.

At a rest stop along the highway there was this homeless man going on quite the rant. He was going on about how Oregon is the worst state of all 50 to travel through. Every time he comes here he gets robbed. People just don't care - like that idiot over there - you've got all these woods man and you have to camp right near me!?! He said he's very sick from cancer and needs more weed - how does that exactly work? Tell me that! I wondered. I have to be careful with people like this because I often find myself agreeing...not to the point where I fly off the handle of course. There's a little truth to everyone and in everything, or, you know, something like that. I just ate my apple and bagel in peace, or at least I tried to. It was kind of hard with the racket of the homeless man pestering all the travelers.

Then this aforementioned man was going on about how he was a rainmaker. He calls and it rains. He comes into a rainy state like this one and it doesn't rain, etc...

He went on to talk to anyone he could pester or bother...interesting dude.

Well, after I pulled into the county park, it began to rain - the thunder was huge - didn't last too long though, but I was in a race to set up my tent. I was the only person there other than one little RV in which I didn't see the inhabitants.

While I was relaxing at the table, eating some grub, Kirsch (and Bob his dog) pulled up in his bright orange pick-up truck. He's a 60-yr-old rancher. Said he's been there 45 years. Has a ranch just over yonder he said. He's on the run from a state trooper who is screwing his girlfriend. He was smoking and asked if I wanted weed, or we could just talk shit - He asked if I had my license so I could drive his truck into town for him (sorry, no stick shift! Thank goodness). He ended up leaving his truck with me with oldies playing on the radio so he could walk to town to fix his phone or something. I mean, he was a bit strange, but he did have manners - was fairly friendly. He even offered me a job on his ranch, something to do with a tape measure - hmm...but you know, I'm just passin' thru... As I declined he would ask me "Don't you like to work?" Some people just have a few clicks missin' upstairs. Oh the people we meet...that's all apart of the adventure...

Who will I meet tomorrow, I wonder?

August 12 (Cy Bingham to Bend, 51.92 miles) - After sleeping with one eye open last night (kidding) it was time to ride to Bend. What I like about Hwy 97 is how flat it is. It's straight and flat. The traffic is horrendous, but the shoulder is wide and it goes by relatively fast. Today was a clear day which was nice because it did rain some last night if I remember. I rode through La Pine and began to see some spectacular views of the central cascades. How someone does not believe in God after viewing some of His creation is beyond me. Let nature speak for itself!

Arriving in Bend, I was pleasantly surprised to be welcomed by Sally McGregor, a wonderful woman who allowed me to stay in her home for a night. She lives in a beautiful little community where they share a garden and everyone is family. I stayed in her basement apartment which was very cozy. The bed was amazing even with my sleeping bag on top. The shower was equally stimulating and I had the opportunity to do some laundry. My gloves were almost black. After the wash, they were almost white. I was very grateful for Sally's accommodations. She had two friendly dogs that I quickly fell in love with. One of them looked exactly like my old dog who died a few years ago. Sally offered me a bottle of hard apple cider which I accepted kindly. I don't usually drink any alcoholic beverages, but I hated to turn her down. I enjoyed our conversations about Bend and bicycle touring and life. She wrote down the names of some bike shops for me to visit in the morning because my bike was in bad shape. I was lucky to make it to Bend. My brakes were rubbing yet again and whatever I did, they didn't seem to improve.

(It was around this time that I happened to get in contact with an old friend who I haven't seen or talked to in about 6 years. She has been living in Kansas because her husband was stationed in the army there. It was unfortunate to hear that she was getting a divorce and taking her three young children with her back to Oregon. I did not want to hear about another friend divorcing but it was nice to talk at length and to keep each other's spirits in tact. I was happy that we were reconnecting. She was moving back in January. Oh, how life happens.)

August 13 (Bend to Jack Creek via Sisters, 42.33 miles) - In the morning, Sally cooked me up some eggs and toast and brewed some coffee to send me on my way right! She didn't have to do any of that, but as a touring cyclist, I don't say no to food. It was a wonderful meal and I did not want to leave. But alas, I had to fix my bike. Sally drove me and my bike to Hutch's Bicycles right along the river. I went in and they told me it would take about an hour. Sally went to run a few errands and I took a walk by the river while listening to a podcast. When I returned to the shop, they told me they found two broken spokes on top of my brake problems. However, God is always up to something because I still had the $25 gift master card that my friend Bonnie gave me for an emergency and guess what? This repair cost exactly $25! I thought it would've been more, but I was blessed it wasn't! Sally returned and we went back to her house where I packed up, including my second American flag I had found on the street (the first one I left in Crescent City) and was on way again.

I was in contact with my Dad because today he was driving to meet me in Sisters. I had a late start because of my bike repairs, but all was good. I arrived in the familiar town of Sisters, found Dad with some difficulty and we picked up some ice cream cones at the Snow Cap and made our way to a pizza place. Dad saw a lady he used to work with a long time ago in community education. We ate a few slices of pizza before traveling to Jack Creek. Jack Creek has been a favorite camping place for us since I was a kid. It is the epitome of camping for me I think. It's always fun riding there...no better way to do it...all the scenery, the trees, the smell, the pine cones, the sounds, the rodents...We set up camp before any rain came and finished off the pizza. I didn't realize I was so hungry! That night we had a fire, this time with dry wood! Dad was surprised at how fast I rode at this point in my trip. I was so used to the weight that it was a part of my bicycle get-up!

August 14 (Jack Creek to Detroit Lake State Park, 53.52 miles) - On the marrow, Dad was prompt to cook up some grub (scrambled eggs and some weird sausages he found that we both weren't keen on) and made some coffee with old sticky marshmallows he was trying to get rid of! It was a hearty meal to take me to Detroit. Dad would take his time around camp after I left. I still had a ways to go today which included a six-mile uphill battle before I made it to Detroit. I conquered the pass with gusto and even stopped to snap a few photos of the mountains and lakes. Central Oregon is a beautiful place to explore. Sometimes I wish I lived out here...but I will just have to visit more often.

I passed through Idanha and came to the state park in which there were no hiker/biker sites. I payed for a regular tent site that cost $19, my most expensive site of the whole trip! I always thought that every place, especially every state park should be equipped with hiker/biker sites. I mean, I have no big car to take up room. All I care about is a place to lay my head. A patch of grass would do. This is what I don't like about America. People are so anal about this sort of thing. Why can't I camp there or no one's using that grass over there? I'll be gone the next day anyhow. Most touring cyclists only stay one night in a place. Anyhow, I'll get off my high horse. The state park is nice though. Maybe that's why it's so popular. I was given a site literally right on the lake. It was gorgeous. I ate my last cheese bagel with tuna in peace. However, we did hear a few large bangs and booms in the sky of passing jets and the whole park came running to the lake - right through my campsite. Come on people! Use the paths. Be respectful. Tonight I was surrounded by generators and German-speakers. It was hard to get some sleep. I talked with some guy near the bathroom who was jealous of my adventure. He said he wished he could do something like that. "Maybe someday..." Do it now man. You can do it. It's amazing. I'm not a super athlete or a wealthy person. If you want to do something like this, just set a date and go! Commit.

August 15 (Detroit Lake to Salem, Oregon, 53.72 miles) - The Detroit Dam was spectacular as the last time I saw it. There were some more hills today, but it wasn't all that bad. Some of the signs leading into Salem weren't exactly accurate. After Mill City, the road seemed to go ever on. I think it was because I was ready to be home. At the same time I wanted to continue to ride and not end. It was bittersweet to be at the end of this trip. I knew, however, that someday I would have to return to Cosmopolis and connect the two dots between there and Lincoln City, the 250 mile section of coast I did not ride due to my Achilles injury. Because of that there was a sense of unaccomplishment. But I did accomplish something of a feat though. I do not take that lightly at all. Arriving in Salem, I gave Dad a call and told him I arrived safely and was enjoying a Dairy Queen blizzard as was my end-of-tour tradition!

This was the end, but it was also the beginning, the beginning of cycling as a lifestyle, the beginning of many more tours. I have a list of places I want to tour next...across America, British Columbia and Alaska, Montana, Iceland, etc. Those are but a few...and so far I am a solo traveler. I welcome those who wish to join me on tour, but if not, solo I will go and solo I will become.

Find your adventures; they are waiting...














































Total Trip Mileage: 2,062.71 miles
Total Trip Budget: $705.99 (including $171 - Amtrak fees, $40 - bike box, $25 gift card - bike repair)

Pacific Coast, part 6: The Mexican Border to Klamath Falls

August 6 (Chula Vista to San Luis Obispo via San Diego Amtrak, 12.90 miles) - I bid farewell to Armando and his wife Maria after breakfast because I had a train to catch. Armando offered for me to stay a couple of days, and I would've but I had a scheduled train today. They had a wonderful house and they were perhaps the most pleasant hosts I have encountered thus far. I enjoyed their conversation immensely. But for now, it was time to part ways. Following Google, I meandered my way through the busy streets and avenues of Chula Vista into San Diego. This sure was a beautiful city, but very busy. As I made my way to the Amtrak station, every few minutes there would be a plane coming in for a landing. The airport was nearby. I thought that was kind of cool. But boy was this place congested. Trains, planes, and automobiles everywhere! But, oh the sun! Sunny San Diego! I sure wish I could've spent more time here to explore.

On this train and the next I had quite the ordeal trying to figure out the baggage claim. How many bags was I allowed, etc. The train from San Diego to San Luis Obispo allowed me just to roll my bicycle on which I enjoyed. I believe all trains should allow roll-on bicycle service! I kept most of my bags with me. I think I had to check my panniers though. I was able to check 2 bags plus have my carry-ons. I kept my tent, backpack, and handlebar bag with me. As I boarded the train with my bike I guess I looked a little nervous. There was one other guy with a bike there who looked at me and spoke up, "This is how it works: These seats are for the disabled so if they need it, we have to move and go above. Every now and again, one of us will come down to check on our bikes." I guess it is not uncommon for people to board the train, steal a bike and leave when the train stops at the stations. He had told me a story of this happening to a buddy of his.

Well this wasn't a very long train ride and I had a warmshowers contact in SLO to pick me up at the station. His name was Justin Russo. He was a mechanical engineering student. He and his buddy and business partner picked me up in his truck and drove me to his place. There was some leftover pizza in the frig that I snagged and some cookies. He was a very nice fellow. They had some business to do and left me to rest and recharge. Justin was going to be gone in the morning so he told me just to lock the door behind me as I left. My train the following day wasn't until later so I had time to sleep and then explore a little bit. But there wasn't must exploring going on because I knew I had to box my bike and find a big enough bag to fit both my panniers and sleeping bag in. I was only allowed 2 checked bags and one of those was going to be my bike. But I will worry about that in the morning. Now it's shut-eye.

August 7 (San Luis Obispo to SLO Amtrak via Mission Thrift & Flanders Bicycle, 5.58 miles) - Luckily Justin lived just a mile or so from the SLO Amtrak station. Therefore I didn't have far to ride. I packed my bike, snagged a few more cookies for the road and grabbed a coffee somewhere. Thanks to Google, I found a thrift store nearby Flanders Bicycle where I went to box up my bike for a fee. I was all new to this so I didn't want to take any chances being an amateur. It would take some time for them to box the bike up so I took off for Mission Thrift. I browsed their collection of random bags and such and finally found one that may be suitable enough and big enough for my bags. It only cost about $4.00 and I thanked God for this worry lifted off my chest. My plan was to make it to Klamath Falls by train so I can ride the rest of the way home. It was cheaper to do this as well as offered more adventure. I picked up my bike box from Flanders Bicycle and one of the guys offered to drive it to the station for me. That was a pleasant surprise! I got to the station with plenty of time. I went up to the counter many times with my questions and worry haha. The lady assured me that I would be okay. It will be fine sir! You are alright. I tend to worry about these things too much. Were they going to kick me off the train? Would my tent count as a carry-on? Ahh, what will happen? I just want to be safely in K-Falls. Little did I know that wouldn't be for some time! The train was scheduled to arrive at 6:00pm for an overnight trip and arrive in K-Falls the next morning. Well, it didn't arrive until almost 3 hours later from LA. Well..Amtrak was to be my home for next 24 hours...better get used to it...try to sleep, find some food in my bags, snap some pictures, write in my journal, think about life.

August 8 (Amtrak Train from SLO to Klamath Falls, 00.00 miles) - I am still on the train. Imagine that. This has got to be some sort of record...every hour the train is delayed even more. I've tried to get some shut-eye, but you know how trains are - yelling kids, grandmas moaning in their sleep, Amtrak staff radios, etc, etc...not to mention the uncomfortable coach seats. At least my seat mate got off in San Jose. He was a young Korean man who kept to himself and I to myself. I can now stretch out at least and try to get some sleep. One time after being stopped for quite sometime, the conductor got on the intercom to insult our intelligence saying, "Ladies and gentlemen, we are currently stopped." Wow - you had to say that didn't you? Get us on a freakin' train that works. How about that? The train was suppose to leave at about 6:00pm for an overnight trip and arrive in Klamath Falls at about 8 the next morning. The train was almost 3 hours late arriving from Los Angeles with some engine trouble. After we boarded the train, the train moved forward about 10 minutes until it stopped for about 2 hours straight. The conductors/Amtrak staff were trying to let people know what was going on. We had to wait for another train, another locomotive to help push us over a hill, add to that more engine trouble and you've got some irritated passengers. Some were getting angry.

(On this train leg, something unexpected did happen. A friend from high school sent me a message asking if I was open to meeting a friend of hers. She didn't know if I had a girlfriend or not. I didn't, still don't. So I said, sure why not. She was a teacher as well. So I contacted her and we talked back and forth a few times via text messaging. This started on the train and continued later on my ride through central Oregon. I was a little excited because hey, it's a girl and she seemed lovely. However, not to get your hopes up, but when I did return home I asked if she wanted to get together and meet. But basically, she told me no. So...there you have it. All I wanted to do was get some coffee or something. What's the harm in that? Oh, people...this wasn't the first time someone tried to set me up with a single friend. Until next time...)

Okay, we're moving again - at least we're going somewhere. What's really annoying is that every half hour or so they announce to the whole train that if you have a reservation for breakfast, lunch, dinner, etc...at varying times please proceed to the dining car and join us. We'll be happy to welcome you. We will seat you. And if that wasn't enough, every five minutes they remind us.  Grrrr. It's quite annoying for someone like me with no reservation and no food. That's the irritating part. They don't feed us and I had little food on the train. What food I did have I was waiting for my last cycling leg from Klamath Falls home. I had a few bagels that I would eventually eat at periodic times because I was famished. I'm a freakin' traveling cyclist. I need to ration my food man and not pay for their expensive meals. After about 14 hours or so on the train, they finally did decide to feed us...a tiny cookie and a few peanuts. And...they would not bring it to us, they asked each of us to go ahead about 5 cars to get the peanut. Oh, the disrespect. Luckily, I contacted Jim Calvert after hitting one dead end in Klamath Falls...and on very short notice, he was able to accommodate me for tonight. My original plan was to arrive in the morning and be on my way, but I was scrambling after I realized the late hour in which the train would arrive. My train was scheduled to arrive at 8:00am. Instead, it arrived at about 5pm. That's a 9 hour delay!! I was on the train for 23 hours. There ought to be a law that states for Amtrak to feed us if we are stranded on the train that long! That's just ridiculous. And I mean more than a few peanuts and a drop of water...something you'd give to a child!!! As you can see, I was more than a little perturbed. The train ride wasn't all bad...there were some very excellent views out my window, some very nice scenes in the sun and in the dark.

Well, I'm here, finally off the train. Jim came and picked me up in his truck! He let me sleep and went off on his nice wrap-around porch to work on my bike - reassembling it. He has a nice place in the hills - except for the long gravel road in. Ha. It's just hard to ride on, that's all. He got me when it was finished. I sure lucked out from having to pay a bike shop to reassemble it for me. I had dozed off on the nice soft bed. He asked me if I was hungry and of course I was after that long haul of a train ride. He took me to a golf course bar and grill and he treated me to a fabulous burger and fries. Man I was hungry and the waitresses were nice, not to mention gorgeous! Then it was sleepy time. I looked at my bike some (more in the morning) and then it was off to dozing and sleeping with a PILLOW!! The things we take for granted...