Tuesday, September 27, 2016

Big Sky Country, Part 2: Crossing the American Alps

June 28 (Burlington to North Cascades National Park - Newhalem Creek Campground, 68.05 miles, 1,373 ft. elevation) Burlington - Sedro-Woolley - Lyman - Hamilton - Birdsview - Concrete - Rockport - Corkindale - Marblemount - Newhalem Campground (North Cascades National Park). Today I head east finally! - over the mountains, or at least begin heading over the mountains. I came to Sedro-Woolley! "Wooly went through Woolley." haha. This was the last "largish" town for a long time. I stopped at a crossroads outside of town to check my map - a few ladies hanging a sign asked if I was lost or knew where I was going. I know where I'm going, just double-checking the map. They said, "Well, if you came yesterday we'd tell you to go straight - to a Salmon feed." A lot of people ask us for directions here.

I was good to go and found my way in the heat, making my turn out of town and up the hill. There's not much from Sedro-Woolley all the way to the Cascades. - only a bunch of little towns until Marblemount, the last stop until you enter the forest. As I entered the Park, I took my iconic picture at the entrance to the North Cascades National Park! I haven't been here since 1996 - 20 years ago almost to the day!

My plan was to head to Colonial Creek campground, the 2nd one in the park - that way tomorrow I'd have a head start up the mountain. However, shortly after I entered the park and came to the Newhalem Village Visitor Center I was hot and overcome with dizziness! I then didn't have much choice but to make camp at Newhalem campground right next door to the visitor center. This would make for a longer day tomorrow up the American Alps as they are known for! But as I saw it I had to listen to my body and make the wise decision to rest. Tomorrow is another day.

I set up camp - my first real day in a tent on my way up through Washington - and quickly fell asleep on account of me not feeling well - plus I had a long day tomorrow and had to get an early start. I set my alarm for 4:30am to trek up the Cascades...err...Alps!

June 29 (North Cascades to Bicycle Barn Camping near Winthrop, 69.63 miles, 8,140 ft. elevation) Newhalem - Colonial Creek - Diablo - North Cascades National Park - Mazama - Bicycle Barn Camping. Today was BRUTAL with a capital "B!" I woke up at 4:30am as I planned, broke camp and was on the road by 5:00am, slowly trudging through and up the North Cascades! I do feel a lot better this morning! It took me about an hour or so to even come to Colonial Creek - up and up I went. I thought about Don and Pat driving Dan, the backpacker up to the summit of Rainy Pass - As the day progressed quickly, the sun grew quickly and it heated up fast. I was in my granny gear most of the day. I walked my bike a bunch. I have no shame in walking. It's all a part of the adventure. The whole journey is the adventure, walking or riding.

As I was pushing my bike up Rainy Pass in the mid-day heat, a car pulled up beside me and the driver asked if everything was ok with my bike. I told him that my bike was fine. I was just resting my legs, that's all - taking a break. Before he pulled away, I asked if he had any water. He did have water and pulled over to the side off the road. He got out and emptied his cold water thermos into my two water bottles to top me off. He told me, "I wish I had some chocolate milk for you. I always travel with chocolate milk but I just finished it off a little while ago," as he showed me the empty milk jug. "Do you want some crackers or a PB & J sandwich?" I was more than grateful to this kind gentleman. He opened up the back of his van so I could have a seat in the shade. There was no shade on the road to escape the heat. I ate my sandwiches and we talked about where I was heading, etc. This man had a nice road bike in the back of his van and was also a cyclist. In my delirium I thought his license plate read Minnesota but it turns out he's from Massachusetts. He was the most kind and generous man and knew all about touring and could sympathize with me climbing these difficult hills. He was just by himself traveling the country. This is why I do this, or at least in part - meeting new people and experiencing the kindness of strangers. I thanked him for his generosity before making the final push to the top. We all need these Road Angels. I regret I never did get his name.

A little while later I looked behind me and thought I saw a cyclist in yellow far below. I turned back and he wasn't there. Maybe my head's making up games. Then I saw him again. This time there was no mistaking him. He was getting closer. I was almost to the top so I hopped back onto my steed and made the final climb to Rainy Pass. When I got to the top, the other cyclist joined me. He thought he would never catch me. He was an older gentleman named Reg (short for Reginald). He was on his way to Washington Pass, then was going to meet his wife. We both rested and had a bite to eat at the top of Rainy Pass and dredged the prospect of losing the elevation before we climbed even further to Washington Pass. Reg would stop frequently in the shade when he could find it. It was about 100 degrees out here. The sun was just beating down on us. Reg said he felt depleted - just spent. I was right there with him, but this was only the beginning. I felt the pain though. The heat drained the energy right out of us.

Well, we rode down - then started to climb back up to the second higher pass. I realize why they call these the American Alps - very steep and very long! But oh so beautiful! Man they are gorgeous!

At the top of the 2nd pass, Reg laid behind a sign in the shade to cool down while I sat on a table to stretch my legs. My Achilles was hurting bad. There was snow at the top and I was almost out of water so I filled up my bottles with snow - nature's ice cubes! I also used the snow to cool down my sun burnt legs and neck! It felt great!

Reg went down before me and I bid him farewell. I began to speed the other side - 16 miles never went by so quickly - ZOOOOOM.

At the bottom it was nice and flat but my energy was low. The miles clicked on by and I found the mile post I was looking for, a few miles from Winthrop and pulled my bike up to Bicycle Barn Camping. Jim and Jan Gregg, the hosts, I learned later were on a tour of their own. But I set up camp, rested my knee and Achilles and helped myself to the cold pop in the frig! Very good and refreshing after climbing over 8,000 feet today!

Later I met Bill, another cyclist who came - He just retired and was riding across the country. He was heading over the Cascades the following day, going the opposite way as me. Nice fella - He was caught in a rain storm and cold weather the last few days - and that's where I'm headed haha! Tie to rest my weary legs and bum! --- Night!