As I set off I bypassed the Idaho/Montana border and came to Chief Joseph Pass and then rode all the way down! I had to get used to always using my phone camera until I get my digital fixed. As I rode into Big Hole National Battlefield, a cycle tourist was leaving and said he was heading for Badger Pass for the night. I learned all about the Nez Perce war with Gibbon and his Calvary troops. It was very sad what happened here. I met Jeremy Coyle from Oakland, CA outside the visitor center as we were locking up our bikes. He's a cyclist headed for Bannack State Park, then the Tour Divide. He went to a wedding in Missoula and is now heading for Fort Collins, CO for another wedding if he can get there in time. Otherwise he'll take the bus. He's a nice guy. We decided to ride together for awhile after Big Hole. We got separated as was expected and I saw a lot of other cyclists on this stretch of the road. Know why? Because this is the freaking Trans Am - I just happen to be on it for a few days. I got lots of advice to carry a ton of water during this stretch of road. There are few towns, high passes and desert. From Wisdom to Jackson I encountered intense Montana headwinds - Terrible! Jeremy rode into town and we had a couple cold drinks in a Cantina. Jeremy told me just out of Wisdom he sat on the side of the road talking with his girlfriend and rethinking his life. He had enough of the headwinds. I could relate.
There was a bicycle camp near the Cantina, but it was still early and it was expensive. At this point, I was making pretty good time for having left later in the morning and decided to ride with Jeremy to Bannack to hopefully split a site. We rode up Big Hole Pass which was hard but not impossible. It was beautiful country out here for sure!! The state park was a few miles past the pass and four miles off the highway, but I figured it was wiser than to find a place to sleep in a ditch. The moon was huge that evening as I set up camp. We talked with some other Tour Divide riders who had motor/dirt bikes. One guy from Victoria, BC told me next summer he wants to ride a logging road that stretches the length of Vancouver Island. It's a different culture - off road gravel riders! Jeremy was going to attempt to ride the trail in the morning; if his tires couldn't handle it, he'd hop back on the tarmac. He pitched his bivvy and bid me good night.
Today started out to be an easy day, but alas it turned out to be my longest thus far.
July 20 (Bannack to Dillon, 29.60 miles, 1,400 ft. elevation) Bannack State Park - Badger Pass - Dillon. I parted ways with Jeremy and rode out of the park back to the highway. I began to climb Badger Pass. It was the second desert pass here and wasn't higher than Big Hole, but still it wasn't pleasant climbing first thing in the morning. I regret I didn't have time to explore the ghost town of Bannack. It looked pretty cool. There was a long downhill on the other side of the pass. The day heated up quickly, but what's new, right?
At last I came to Dillon and the junction of I-15. I stocked up on groceries at the local Safeway when the McDonald's was out of ice cream. It's amazing how something so simple can taste so good and when they are out, it is devastating. What's wrong with the world? They have frappes but no ice cream? I finally got through to my host Larry. He said I could still stay with him. They were going to town soon and it would be all uphill to their house. On my way, they were driving down and saw me and gave me a lift. I stayed in this nice cottage next door that Larry built that currently has no one living in it. It's very nice and cozy. (Earlier I had thought for a split second to ride on to Twin Bridges, but decided I could used a bed and a warm shower!) Larry and Lois had cold drinks in the frig. and I showered and collapsed on the bed - must've slept through dinner - oh well - I was tired! This was a nice place to crash. Larry was a nice and helpful man! I enjoyed the little company I had with him.
July 21 (Dillon to Twin Bridges Bike Camp, 34.34 miles, 313 ft. elevation) Dillon - Beaverhead Rock - Twin Bridges. This morning I woke with a headache. A shower helped though. I don't have far to go today. Well, that's what I said yesterday ha. Larry came by to say goodbye and have me sign his guestbook. He provided me with a bunch of advice from here on towards Yellowstone. I tried to retain as much info as I could.
A mile or two outside of Dillon, I encountered a hitchhiker. I rode by him at first and he called to me, "Hey, you got any water?" I skidded to a stop and came back. I had just filled up with ice water in Dillon. I gave him a sip of my water, then he spotted my bottle hanging from my backpack on my bike. "Is that root beer?" he asked with enthusiasm. I told him he could have it even though it's not cold. But he said it didn't matter. It's wet and that's what counts! He began complaining and cursing the cars that drove by without picking him up. All these assholes wouldn't stop because they were so self-centered, etc. Well, anyway, he was just headed to Twin Bridges which isn't too far away. I hope he got a ride! Everyone's in a rush, rush hurry. -
Shortly afterwards I got dizzy - really dizzy. For the rest of the way to Twin Bridges I rode and walked my bike and had to frequently stop due to the severe lack of a shoulder. I stopped at Beaverhead Rock, a landmark for Lewis and Clark among others. I have often thought about Lewis and Clark as I pedal along. What it would've been like to see these sights for the very first time. Wow - Risk, Danger, Unknown - they knew adventure!
I finally made it to the Bike Camp in Twin Bridges. It is an awesome place. It was built by a man named Bill White who saw the need. Many people would ride through Twin Bridges on the Trans Am but wouldn't stop in town. There really wasn't a need. They'd just pass through. The town was reluctant at first, but warmed up to the idea of the bike camp. Now, the town's business has grown. The stores, restaurants and such have seen a lot more business because of the cyclists that pass through. I wish Salem had something like this. I guess it would work better in a smaller town.
It's time to relax. I gradually felt better. LORD, keep me safe and healthy and strong. It is a hot day and I'm just sweating as I lie here on the couch. I walked to town by the river and took some pictures and bought some groceries and stopped at the library for free wifi. When I got back to the bike camp, two cyclists from the Netherlands greeted me. One was named Renee. I didn't catch his brother. As I talked with them, one interrupted me, "You sound like you're having a hard time. You okay?" That aggravated me. Yes dude. I'm tired and don't talk to many folks. Give me a break man. Stop being stupid! As it would turn out, Jeremy Coyle arrived a bit later. He said the dirt wasn't working out for him. He got a few flats on his marathons, went back to Bannack and explored the ghost town. At this point, he wasn't sure if he would make it to Fort Collins in time for his friend's wedding so he may have to take the bus.
Using the library's free wifi, I left feedback for all my previous WS hosts. The bike camp was right in a rest area by the river. It was a beautiful spot indeed. The red sky - sunset- was gorgeous. I crawled into my sleeping bag as the Netherlands guys watched some Game of Thrones on their laptop and Jeremy climbed in his bivvy bag outside.
July 22 (Twin Bridges to Lewis and Clark Caverns to Belgrade, 87.25 miles, 1,621 ft. elevation) Twin Bridges - Silver Star - Whitehall - Cardwell - Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park - Three Forks - Logan - Manhattan - Belgrade/Bozeman. This morning I walked to town, grabbed some breakfast and then again to the library to check the wifi. I received some quick, lengthy negative feedback from Harvey, my host in Bonner's Ferry, ID. What the crap man? He apparently found my Facebook page and was offended by something that wasn't even about him. I am furious. It may hurt my chances of getting future hosts. It is no fair. He hurt me and it makes no sense. What he said wasn't even true. He went on and on and made crap up. I had to get on the road to vent -
Larry had convinced me to head north to visit Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park rather than south through Ennis. It would be a lot less elevation and plus the caverns he told me are really incredible to explore. Great - I will take his advice. Sounds like the wise thing to do at this point. Jeremy headed south and I headed north. We split for the second time and for the last time until we meet again that is. I headed on the road towards Whitehall. It was nice and flat - lots of time for thinking!
I thought more about community and the need for it, community of the past, community of the future. Where are all my friends? Why is loyalty gone? Why did Harvey have to hurt me so with his feedback? I have embraced loneliness. Psalm 88 - "The darkness is my closest friend." I'm not well mentally. I have to fight it. Where's the support? Where has the camaraderie gone to? Why is hurt so prevalent among folks? I like the alone time - even value it, but in this world - work, church, home - there are people. But I lack meaningful friendships and mentorships, etc. I have too many shallow friendships or acquaintances. I have never had a best friend and frankly am sick of people talking about their BFFs...at the same time I envy them - having a friend always there for you. I don't know that feeling. It's like love. I don't know what it means to be in love.
As I ride to Whitehall, tears are welling up in my eyes. I do need someone. F*** this. Sorry LORD - help me. I don't mean this. But maybe I am angry. I need Thee O God. I am broken. You are God and I am not. - more tears - What's the point? Why am I here? I need/want a friend - HELP! I am an anomaly - a minority - where am I heading? Where is my place in this world? People will want to know how my trip was - what if I'm not ready to tell them? This used to be fun. I try my best to be polite, kind, sincere - myself - help me to love people. Love God, Love People. It's not easy. We ought to be excellent to each other. What if we were excellent to one another? That's at the core to what's wrong with this country, this world.
The comment from the guy from the Netherlands has got to me - maybe I shouldn't take it personally, but come on! Be polite man! Many provide feedback that I am quiet or shy - well, just like many areas of my life, I've said it before - I am not shy - and they all view quiet as a seemingly bad thing. Hello - it's wisdom!! or at least I thought it was...
I am on my way to the state park - it is nearing 100 degrees this afternoon. My phone is overheating way too quickly. This is a beautiful canyon and river I am cycling by though! HOT SUN beating down with no shade in sight.
At long last I made it to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park at 3:00pm. I had checked online earlier and saw they had hiker/biker sites so I wasn't worried. Plus Larry had told me I should check it out this way. Well, I rode around and could not find the sites. So I asked the camp host who was completely clueless saying, "Hiker, biker...I don't know what that would be," as she carried her small pup. It seems like it is a requirement for old lady camp hosts to own a dog that is always cooped up in their RV. I went back down to the visitor center to investigate. The rangers were clueless as well. What is it with Montana? They let me look at their computer and found out that the $12 hiker/biker sites were generic for Montana and not specific to the individual park. This was stupid news. This was a huge park and even though the sites were full, there was a ton of space I could just pitch my tent for the night. But they told me no. One site canceled but it was electrical so they would have to charge me $34.00. That is so stupid. I don't care for any of that crap. Just let me sleep! Damn it! The RV park down the road was $35.00 for a tent. I asked again to pitch my tent on one of the tons of grassy areas in the park but they said no, they don't have any overflow and turned me away. I don't care about overflow - screw the damn rules! Break them and be human! Have a heart! She said Three Forks was 15 miles away - turned out to be 20 miles, the nearest town. I asked how far Belgrade was because I had a friend there. It's about 40-50 miles. She said it was too far to ride today. Obviously she has never met the Wooly Wheelman before!
I left utterly furious - cursing the air. The nearest town is 20 miles away in 100 degree July weather. I mounted my steed and rode like the wind to beat the sun and wonder where I was going to sleep that night. In Three Forks at Family Dollar I met a teenage girl who asked, "You're riding in this heat?" I told her from where I was riding from and going to. "On your bike? Riding the whole way? Wow. I rode here on my bike, 5 mile - too hot, had to call my Dad to pick me up." "I admire you Sir. I'm gonna be you one day." And as I was leaving, she said, "I salute you Sir!" Good luck. In town I found a library and sent Mia White, a friend in Belgrade, an e-mail asking if I can arrive a day earlier due to unforeseen circumstances. From here I rode on a bike path until it ended abruptly in the middle of nowhere. I had to lug my bike down and up through brush to the Frontage Road. I rode through Logan, Manhattan before finally making it to Belgrade before dark. Google took me on a gravel road to some guy's backyard - a mile from Mia's house. But I made it safely to her house and met the whole White family - Alex, Mia, Audrey, Arwyn and Alric. They were very generous and gave me some good food and drinks to supplement my long day - 87 miles! I rode an unexpected extra 42 miles. I am pooped to say the least. Alex gave me good directions and thoughts on Yellowstone that I would have to ask him to repeat later...before I fell asleep.
July 23 (Belgrade Rest Day, 00.00 miles, 0 ft. elevation) BELGRADE REST DAY. After a good big breakfast (I was in luck that Alex liked to make big breakfasts to start each day!) I went to town - Bozeman or "Bozeangelos" as they call it cause of all the wealth I suppose. I went to town with Alex. He saw to my needs. He took me to the camera store first to see if my digital could be repaired. I really wanted it before I entered Yellowstone. Unfortunately it was a no go. The only thing we could was send it to Nikon and get it repaired which could take weeks. That wasn't an option so I had to use my phone's camera from now on and get it fixed back home. You'd think a camera store could fix cameras, but I guess that's not the case. It was a brand new camera too. This sucks!
Next we went to the bike shop. There's several of them in town. The first one we went to found the leak in my front tire and said I would need to replace the tire soon. It's getting worn. They tampered with my bike some to fix it up. I decided to go to a second bike shop to get tubes with longer valve stems. I wanted to be safe.
Back at the house I had to fix the brakes because the shop tightened them but they were WAY too tight and rubbing on my wheel. They're still not quite the same. I'm pretty sure I never told them to mess with the brakes and the gears are a little screwy too - no pun intended. Bike shops - I'm at their mercy. Lunch was good. Mia's a great cook! She has some of the same tastes as my Mom! They're close friends after all. That evening we celebrated Alric's 4th birthday with a Star Wars themed neighborhood block party with BB-8 cupcakes and Ewoks and other Star Wars food. We watched The Force Awakens outside but waited a long time for the sun to vanish. After the festivities and clean-up, I had some good talks with Alex before we headed to bed. We talked about church and frustrations and Yellowstone and other related things...It's good to talk with people who share frustrations and can understand and relate.
July 24 (Belgrade Rest Day, 00.00 miles, 0 ft. elevation) BELGRADE REST DAY. Alex and Mia were very gracious to let me stay an extra day. After all I had planned to get there a day later anyhow. It was nice to catch up on some of my journaling and planning for Yellowstone and beyond. We had another wonderful big breakfast - Mia's chocolate pancakes. Yum.
The Whites hadn't quite found a home church yet, so I spent the day relaxing some more, both indoors and outdoors. It was hot, warmed up quickly, but nice and cool inside. They filled the little pool and went for a dip with the girls. Mia read out of the 7th Harry Potter book to the girls and after learning I was into Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit, we ended up watching a mini Hobbit marathon beginning with the 2nd one and then watched the 3rd extended. First time I saw the extended edition. It was great fun. I always think of Middle-earth while on my journeys. We watched and ate corn on the cob, roast and veggies. Great food.
Thanks for some great relaxing fun and good food and conversations Alex, Mia, Audrey, Arwyn and Alric White! Until next time...
July 25 (Belgrade to Mallards Rest Campground, Fishing Access, 60.68 miles, 2,096 ft. elevation) Belgrade - Bozeman - Livingston - Mallards Rest Campground. The Whites left early - Alex to work and Mia took the girls into town for sports camp. I thanked them for their hospitality and left myself. I started off a bit wobbly. It has to take time getting back on the bike after two days off. I have to get my groove back! Leaving Belgrade I climbed hot hills, up and down, up and down. Jackson Road that Alex told me about was beautiful. It goes north and bypasses the Interstate. Near Livingston I met a young couple who went on a coast-to-coast tour two years ago and were jealous of my trip. Whenever they see bicyclists they wish they were on a trip themselves. The guy gave me a peach because he understood that fresh fruit is hard to come by on tour.
In Livingston I stopped at a McDonald's where I met and older gentleman who used to be a motorcyclist until he was in a wreck. Now, he stays away. Two older women across the way also noticed me and my bike outside and asked about my trip. First they asked, "Are you riding a motorcycle or a bicycle?" Bicycle. "You know how far it is to Yellowstone?" she asked with concern in her voice. Yes, it's about 60 miles or so from here. "Where did you come from?" Oregon. "Well, okay then..." she said as her tone changed and realized I've been on the road awhile. I know all about hills. ha. I would take 89 south all the way to the park. But it was a tricky road to traverse with a low shoulder and rumble strips.
I came to Mallards Rest Campground, a fishing access site for $12.00. I set up in a beautiful spot by the Yellowstone River. Firewood was left in the pit - maybe I'll make a fire. The wind was blowing heavily. After I built the fire, the wind blew my tent over the fire. In a moment of adrenaline and panic I zoomed over and caught it before it ignited. That was close indeed.
I met a fisherman from Ohio who'd never been out this way before. He agreed that it is "beautiful out here." We saw the beautiful sunset and the sun caught the cliffs making them red cliffs somehow. It was gorgeous. The fisherman told me about something called Virgo? It's when the rain evaporates before it hits the ground. "Will we have rain or Virgo? There was lightening over the river and I saw lots of folks floating their way down the river. There were also a ton of gnats or something all over my tent. I went to bed but woke up a few hours later in the night because I saw these flashes and at first I thought it was lightening, but they were too frequent. I opened my tent and my fear was reality. The wind had reignited my fire. So I stumbled out of my tent, walked down to the river in the dark, filled my bottle with water and put it out once again. This time I made sure. It felt nice out here. It was very warm and humid and I sweat and now, the cool air felt nice on my bear skin. Before I crawled back inside my tent, I took this opportunity to lay my favorite touring shirt - the blue one - to rest at Mallards Rest. It was time to let it go because of all the holes. I said a few words and headed to bed.
July 26 (Mallards Rest Campground to Yellowstone National Park, Mammoth Campground, WI, 50.06 miles, 1,972 ft. elevation) Mallards Rest - Pray - Emigrant - Gardiner - Mammoth Campground (Yellowstone National Park, WI). After breaking camp, I headed south on 89. Finally I came to East River Road, a nice bypass for a few miles. Cycled through Pray. I need my strength back. I feel weak today. Back on 89 - stupid rumble strips! Terrible shoulder. I ran off the road once which scared me! Keep on pedaling south - following the Yellowstone River. I arrived in Gardiner near the north entrance to Yellowstone when the rain came. It came lightly at first, then heavy rain began to fall with thunder in the background.
I stopped off at "The Corral" and ordered a Montana Moose Moss shake, mint with reese's peanut butter cups which did the trick to refresh me. At the "Yellowstone National Park" entrance sign, I was trying to take a picture of myself with the sign in the background when a group of motorcyclists offered to take my picture if I took theirs. One of the ladies joked about taking a picture with my bike but no one would believe she did that. They were impressed at my endeavor.
Roosevelt Arch was a cool sight to behold. The entrance fee to Yellowstone is $15.00 for me. Soon after the entrance, I passed Boiling River but chose not to stop because of the crowds. Crowds are not my thing. My sides hurt bad after climbing a huge hill all the way to Mammoth. I found the camp host site and talked with her about finding a spot for me. They have a policy that says they cannot turn away any bicycles, so I wasn't worried. It would be $5.00 for me. However, there was another person vying for a camping spot. Mammoth campground was full just like every other site in the park. She was an attractive foreign girl with a sexy accent traveling alone, but in a car. We agreed that if they only have one spot, that she could stay with me. The camp host must've thought she was with me because at first she said, "Well, we're not supposed to, but I can let you in." However, at the pay station, she asked her if she was with me and she responded, "Well, not really, but I've been to every other spot in the park and they are all full up. Can't I stay in the site with him?" The host responded with "Sharing sites is not allowed. Come back early in the morning to secure a spot." As she left, I shrugged my apologies and inwardly cursed the system.
When I arrived at my hiker/biker site, I noticed there would've been plenty of room for the foreign gal and her car. This was dumb. "Not supposed to share sites." Screw the rules. There's so much room here. Something has to change! Sites here fill by 10am and I pray she will get a site in the morning. I wouldn't have minded her camping alongside me!
As it turns out, the park obviously breaks some rules because evidently there were 3 hiker/biker sites and the other 2 were taken up by car campers. So what gives? My neighbors were nice though. I met April, a car camper from Fort Collins, CO. She teaches college. She offered me wine but I opted for the organic green herbal tea instead. Refreshing. Later she offered me a big fatty ass salad! Yum, sure beats my PB&J. I don't get many veggies on my journeys. And for dessert - a granola bar! April said, "Just paying it forward." She did a bike trip herself in Japan and Yellowstone was on her bucket list but wouldn't think about doing it on a bike. She decided to go for it after turning a big number this year. The other car campers was a family from Texas.
More than once I’d met people in America who were drifting from one place
to another, planning to do so soon in the future, or at the very least
harboring a longing for movement. John Steinbeck described the same phenomenon
when he traveled around the country:
“I saw in their eyes
something I was to see over and over in every part of the nation – a burning desire
to go, to move, to get under way, anyplace, away from any Here. They spoke
quietly of how they wanted to go someday, to move about, free and unanchored,
not toward something but away from something. I saw this look and heard this
yearning in every state I visited. Nearly every American desires to move.”
I get it, Steinbeck, I really do.
Yet alongside those who craved to satiate the wanderlust, I encountered a large
majority displaying definite unwillingness to go. Many small-town residents
greeted me with warmth and generosity but behind their gestures I sensed no
envy. A response of ‘I could never do that’ trumped any yearning in them to
drift or travel, more often than not.
There was now a split between the
two camps. What had happened to the country in the thirty years since Steinbeck
toured around? Why were increasingly more Americans content to remain
stationary? It could be read as defeatism or repression, I suppose; just as a
school of fish may be afraid to move into darker waters beyond for fear of
monsters, people cluster and bed down in places they feel safe.
I prefer, though, to see it as a
mentality born of contentment and a satisfaction in time and place. The United
States of America was founded by those who pushed on always a little further,
and ever since then those same pioneer-minded types have edged the country
forward. Now, maybe more Americans are finally keen to establish roots and
communities and have less need to wander. They seem to want to actively grow
and create their own legacies, intrinsically linked to the locations that bind
them together. (Leon McCarron, The Road Headed West)
