I stopped for a break at 3 Valley Gap where a Ghost Town resides oh, but you have to pay admission to view the ghost town. Lame. But the old train cars were pretty neat to check out regardless!
After the thunderstorm last night in Revelstoke, it was another long and hot blistering day... I have begun to enter BC's desert regions now... And who knew Canada had an enchanted forest? It looked about the same as the one in Salem. I wonder which one came first?!
I rode past lots of pretty lakes today!
When I arrived in Salmon Arm I learned my hosts lived on the west side all the way through town. I rode up and over Hills and finally got closer... I managed to get off the highway and wrote up this huge hill at the end of the day when it began to rain. The weather here is so unpredictable! It's pretty familiar actually. It rained for quite a while before I came to the downhill section and made it to Colleen and Andre's house. They also had another guest stay with them, Teresa who's also a cyclist! They were a very accommodating couple. Andre had to sleep early and wake up early for work, the Colleen fed me some dinner of rice and a meaty sauce with corn on the cob. Andre and Colleen met in 2014 when cycling across Canada in different directions... a love story that would make for a great book! Andre owns a lot of bikes. We had Cherry Pie and vanilla ice cream for dessert! This is cherry season up here.
I set up my tent on their deck to keep dry and went fast asleep!
August 2 (Salmon Arm to Kamloops, Silver Sage Trailer Park, 68.30mi/109.91km) - After some coffee and breakfast, Colleen warned me that Kamloops wasn't a very "nice" Town, knowing some cyclists being harassed when they rode through. Unfortunately I was unable to secure a warm showers host, having contacted several within a week's time. No one seemed to be available. Teresa told me of a great RV trailer park she once camped out in there. I found that on the map and made that my tentative destination. Colleen sent some banana bread with me for the road to lift my spirits.
It was gearing up to be another scorcher. I was able to find a Subway in Sorrento to eat at and fill my water bottles! Subway has always been to go to appear for water bottle filling. They're much more accommodating up here in the north than they are in the U.S.
The stretch from Sorrento to Chase hugged the lakes and the shoulder kind of disappeared in parts making it for Dangerous riding with Autos speeding by to get through the stretch.
Kamloops is filled with steep hills. Essentially there's a lower part of town and an upper part of town. After some tricky navigation, I finally made it to Silver Sage trailer park and found site to call home for an evening... but let me tell you, getting there was no picnic. Navigation took me off the highway and on to Shuswap Road- up and over Rolling Hills. The sun disappeared and entered thunder, lightning, and rain... I also crossed 10 cattle guards... It took me probably a couple hours to reach Kamloops due to the road, weather, and wind. Strong winds blew me across the road! I'm not exaggerating. It was slow moving. Eventually the sun reappeared.
I was relieved when I finally made it to town and secured my camping spot for the night. Sore bones and muscles and tiredness overcame me.
August 3 (Kamloops to Roche Lake Provincial Park, 29.40mi/47.31km) - I spent the morning figuring out my route and what I was going to do from here... You see, for the last week or so I questioned my route from Kamloops to Vancouver. And now that I'm finally here, it's game time! There was the Coquihalla Hwy which is a mountain freeway with a wide shoulder but Automobiles and trucks go 140 kilometers per hour or so. I decided on the Fraser River Canyon for it's scenery. I consulted some bicycle forums online and thought that might be my best bet. However plans always change on trips like these. The stretch from Kamloops to Sorena bicycles are prohibited, or so said the sign... I rode back to town, ate some breakfast and took a look at my maps wondering all the while what the next move was.
Finally decided on Highway 5A, a third option. It is a much less busy road and less mountainous than the Coquihalla. So I made four or 5A southbound out of Kamloops at around 12 noon. Summit Drive, with an 11% gradient was the road out of town. It seemed to be endless. I found the highway at last and continued South. I found a Provincial Park on the map that wasn't too far away... It should be an easy day after all... Famous last words.
The turn-off to Roche Lake Provincial Park came soon enough, but the park itself what's another 12 km on a dirt road which is practically all uphill. There were some extraordinary steep inclines. This is not an exaggeration either. It took me a good two hours to reach the park. The entire time I kept busy Swati and swarms of mosquitoes and had to walk up several of the Hills due to the incline and the terrain. The days seem to be unending... I thought I would never reach the park.
When I finally arrived at the park that's when the rain started. I frantically set up my tent to get my gear and myself dry. In the midst of the downpour, I unzip my tent and got out to move it a few yards because in my haste I said it up in a place that caused a big mud pit.
I am laying in my drenched and muddy tent listening to the sound of pounding rain! When it subsided, I got out and paid for my site... Or at least when the Ranger came knocking on my tent and telling me the rain stopped.
God's mercies never cease. You see, he knew it would take me forever to reach the park... So he held off the rain until I arrived.
It didn't end up being an easy day after all... I'm exhausted, sleep is taking over.
August 4 (Roche Lake Park to Merritt, 51.03mi/81.12km) - *On a side note, I was sickened to learn of two Americans who were killed by ISIS while cycling around the world.*
I was relieved find out that the warm showers host in Merritt I contacted a week ago was still available. I wasn't sure if I was going to ride this way or not. I called and made sure it was okay for me to come tonight! God is good!
Riding through desert sand farmlands by beautiful lakes... With sun on the left and thunder and dark clouds on the right!
British Columbia sure has a lot of water... Who knew?!!
When I arrived in Merritt I met Jean, a French Canadian who has an Airstream trailer for people to use. He was a nice guy, albeit strange at times. He smokes cigars and his house is filled with smoke. Maybe that's why he doesn't allow people inside except to use the bathroom. His wife was gone so I didn't get to meet her but I had a warm shower and bed to sleep in. What's there to complain about? Jean has a playful cat and old dog and he kept watching the news on Trump and said he hates the "f---er." "You don't support Trump do you? If you do, I have to kick you out of the house..." That's what he told me- I'm not even in the United States!
Oh people...
August 5 (Merritt to Princeton, Rivers Edge RV Park, 60.08mi/96.68km) - After some coffee with Jean, I packed up and departed Merritt to continues South on 5A. Jean offered some assistance with maps and Route configuration.
There was a beautiful lakes and prairies today... In the 100 degree Heat, or by Canadian estimates, the 20 degree Heat.
I previously had scoped out a park to camp at... Allison Lake Provincial Park.
When I arrived at Allison Lake, the campground was full course and there were no Park host or Rangers to ask and the crowds ignored me. I guess they were too focused on swimming in the lake having fun with their families. I was even looking forward to jumping in the lake to cool off from this scorcher of a day! But after looking at my maps, Princeton wasn't too much further away. As much as I would like to stay here and cool off in the lake, it may benefit me to get more miles under my belt this day before I conquered the hills of Manning Park. so I made for Princeton.
Just after I left Allison Lake, there was a huge gray be that was freaking me out on my bike.
When I arrived in Princeton, I met Nikolai, another cyclist who is heading to the same RV Park, River's Edge RV Park. This turned out to be a wonderful Park. Most RV parks are not that great, but this one, was it reasonably priced and even had a quiet, grassy camping area next to the Big River. The park hosts even brought us chairs in the shower was huge... It was like a private walk in shower. Amen. This was a blessing in disguise.
Nikolai was from Montreal but living in Vancouver for a Time. As I was just ending my trip, he was beginning his. He was headed for the Great Divide that he was hopefully going to ride to New Mexico. From talking with him it sounded like he's written everywhere on his bike. He had the same Brooks saddle for 10 years! Mine needs some adjustment to fit my rear.
Sitting there, Nikolai became part of my story! We rode into town and bought some pizzas at this Grill close by. He's a vegetarian but I got a meat lovers Pizza... Great meal for Hungry cyclists.
Back to camp for a shower and sleep-
Tomorrow = Hills!!
August 6 (Princeton to Manning Provincial Park, 44.77mi/71.05km) - To my chagrin, I woke with anticipation of having the rest of my pizza for breakfast. Alas, it was to my chagrin because I came to find out that a raccoon had a feast of it during the night. I had packed it at the top of my pannier, but the smell was too much for the critter. I was looking forward to that delicious pizza, but now I made an enemy with a rodent. My day seemed to be ruined and all I had to look forward to now were huge hills and more hills...leading into EC Manning Provincial Park in southern BC, bordering Washington State.
The previous day, at the visitor's center, the kind ladies there asked me if I was coming to or going from Manning Park. I said I was going to the park and they informed me that most people are coming from, riding west to east and thus they show them this piece of paper showing the elevation that they had just cycled. However, it was my lucky day and they showed it to me...the route and elevation I had to look forward to. Yay me!! But what's a few more hills, really...in the grand scheme of my bicycle adventures...?
Right out of Princeton, the climb began up Copper Mountain. The shoulder was non-existent and I stopped after a few miles to let the traffic pass me by and to chug a liter of chocolate milk! As I reached Sunday Summit, after Allison Pass, I snapped some pictures of my accomplishment trying to be discreet from the resting semi-truck drivers on-looking. I rode into Manning Park and arrived to the visitor's center just before it closed at 6:00! I had a look around and got a cold Dr. Pepper from the vending machine. As I crested the hill right before the visitor's center, an old man who was maybe in his 80s was waiting for me holding out his hand with a huge delicious peach in it. As I reached him he told me that I could use this peach. He told me he used to do what I was doing at a younger age. The kindness of strangers is what keeps one going. This was my first and only road angel on my Canadian Adventure. God bless this old man! I saved this peach and ate it that evening right before I set up my tent for the night. This instance reminded me of the guy who offered my Gatorade at the top of a hill near Four Corners a few years back. We gotta return the favor friends. Be kind and be awesome. Live the adventure! After I spent some time cleaning my bike, I bed down for the night.
August 7 (Manning Park to Hope, 42.70mi/68.71km) - Manning Park is beautiful. The Crowsnest Highway follows the stunning Similkameen River. The mountainous and rugged terrain adds to the glory. God's creation never ceases to amaze. I love traveling through new and exciting places and meeting people along the way...some places only a bicycle can take you...
This morning as I left Coldspring Campsite, the Crowsnest Highway continued through the west end of Manning Park and I descended 1500 meters into Sunshine Valley. I left the forested park and entered a hot prairie and desert. Soon enough, my road intersected the Coquihalla Highway, Hwy 5, the mountain highway that is home to high flying vehicles. I made a stop at the site of the famous Hope Mud Slide. It was essentially now a tourist trap for people to hike through. I took some pictures and left. It was pretty cool to read about though. It reminded me of lava beds. Soon afterwards, I entered the town of Hope, which meets up with the Trans-Canada Highway. I arrived in early afternoon and had scoped out some campgrounds in the area. First, there was the Coquihalla Campground which cost a bit more than I wanted to pay. Second, there was Telte-Yet Camp Site. This place is where I called home for the evening. It was more bicycle friendly. I moved my campsite a few times. It was located right next to the beautiful Fraser River. The wind was horrendous. I had a heck of a time putting my tent up without it blowing across the campground. This place made for some great pictures though.
There was a Dairy Queen within walking distance of the campground where I ate after setting up camp. I perused my maps and did some journaling there as I ate my burger and fries while I charged my phone and camera.
That night I did my best not to get blown away by the intense wind!
August 8 (Hope to Langley, 77.25mi/124.32km) - In the morning, I decided to ride all the way to Langley, BC. I had failed to secure warm showers hosts in Chilliwack and Abbotsford. I continued to follow the Trans-Canada Highway through canyons and countryside meandering my way into the more congested, civilized world. I am finally making my way towards Vancouver. The end is in sight. It has been an adventure and feels surreal the end is almost here.
Before I left Hope, I took a few pictures of the Fraser River and spotted a gopher or some kind of prairie dog down on the rocks. As I was standing there having one final rest before the push to Langley, an older man, who at first looked homeless started talking with me. He had an old bicycle himself. He was enjoying Hope and told me he was planning on moving here probably. It's a nice little town, don't ya think? I agreed, secretly wishing he would stop talking and move on so I could get on my way. I have a long way to ride today. But I always enjoy meeting folks like these so I welcomed the interruption. When it was time to go, I wished him luck on his own adventures and left Hope behind...
As I approached Langley, traffic became more heavy. I was leaving the prairies and ranch lands behind and entering the city. Every city here kind of blends together until you reach Vancouver. Actually, once I entered Langley, things started to look a little familiar. I visited years ago when my siblings went to Trinity Western University in town. I also passed the turn off where we would reenter the United States. After Langley, I could have totally started home. People even thought that was what I was going to do. It seem to them the logical choice. But alas, Vancouver was always the goal. I wanted to spend some time there and explore the city before adventure's end.
I came to the home of Dennis and Valerie. They were such an accommodating couple and very kind and humble. Dennis is actually a professor at TWU. I talked with Dennis and Val at length about my adventures and annoying vehicle traffic, laws, and real estate in the Vancouver area. They were very friendly and I was so thankful to them allowing me to stay there after such short notice when no one else was available. In the end, it was a long day to Langley, but was relieved and thankful to having cycled that far because it's not a long haul to Vancouver now. After some evening chat and some dessert, I called it a night. Tomorrow I ride to the city of Vancouver where I already secured a warm showers host for a couple nights!
