Thursday, March 26, 2015

Pacific Coast, part 5: Goleta to the Mexican Border

August 1 (Goleta to Leo Carillo State Beach, 74.36 miles) - After drinking up Jesse's coffee, I hit the road. Next up was Santa Barbara where they were getting ready for some parade or something along the main stretch. This was another city I wish I could've spent more time in. It seem like a fun town to explore. There were palm trees everywhere. I was now in Southern California. I'm not quite sure where the dividing line quite is between the North and South. Along the beach there were volleyball nets set up. Seems like the life - playing beach volleyball all the time! I also passed this stretch of RV Parking. I kid you not - there were miles of RV and motor homes along this specific parking section along the beach. People just set up camp there as they took part in their personal festivities at the beach. This definitely was beach culture. The further south I traveled, I noticed a surf shop on every corner practically. I passed Santa Claus Lane after Carpenteria State Beach near Ventura.

Ventura was the place I had planned to stay earlier which did not work out to my benefit. Through Ventura, there was a very nice bike path as was most of southern Cali at this point. I stopped at a bike shop to fill up my tires with air and passed Wooley Road!! There also must be a Navy base nearby or something because I passed a place with models of jets and rockets and navy planes which was really cool. I thought of my Grandpa when I saw these. There were a few other bicyclists there too including one with an electric bike. I found out later that there are a lot of electric bike shops because people down here have money and can afford them. Ah, there it is...sure enough there was Venutra County Naval Base in Oxnard.

As I pulled into Leo Carrillo State Park, the young Park Ranger told me that there was a lot of bikers and wasn't sure if there was room. I was a little shocked but also dubious. He told me I could go take a look if I like. After giving me directions, I rode down there and after finding it laughed to myself because there were only a few cyclists and plenty of room. Why don't people understand that all I need is a small patch of grass to curl up on for a night? I'm sure ten more people could've fit in this little spot. I befriended my neighbors there and they offered some brownies which were delicious. And back in the grove I saw my English friends! They had wondered what happened to me and I them haha. They were following much of the Pacific Coast bicycling book and I had a few warm showers hosts and therefore we became separated for a few days. It was good to be back on track. They had asked what I planned to do tomorrow because there really isn't a campsite for another 100 miles or maybe even more. They had planned to stay in a hotel or hostel somewhere near Los Angeles. Me, I wasn't quite sure. Secretly, since I'm such a snob about saving money and not paying for a hotel or the like, I had wanted to wake early and see how far I made it...at least try to make it past the LA area to the next park which would make for one loooooong day. It would be well over 100 miles, maybe about 120 miles away. I thought I could do it. YAY for adventure! Or at least misadventures!!

August 2 (Leo Carillo to Newport Beach, 101.00 miles) - Somewhere between yesterday and today, or at some unofficial overlook, I stopped to snap a few photos of the view and leaned my bike up against a tree. Well, I had a moment of panic because I heard a slide and looked behind me and my bike was slipping when a German tourist caught it just in time. My bike almost fell off the cliff. That German I thanked very much. He saved me!

Early in the morning, I entered Malibu and filled my hydro flask with some warm coffee at a gas station because it was a chilly morning with fog rolling in. Well, the fog was already in. I didn't see any celebrities or get to enjoy Malibu that much because of the thick fog and mist. Malibu ran for about 27 miles and was advertised as "27 miles of scenic beauty," but unfortunately I was unable to see much of that beauty. I took the sign's word for it though. I just plowed through and made perfect circles all the way to Santa Monica 30 miles away. I wasn't sure where I was going to lay my head tonight, so I just had to move. That didn't stop me from enjoying myself or taking pictures though.

Through much of today, I rode right along the beach where there was a well-maintained bicycle path. And the further I rode the more crowds there were. There were lights indicating when you have to dismount your bike and walk do to the flow of pedestrian traffic. It was pretty crazy. And so I rode through Malibu, Santa Monica, passed LAX, Manhattan Beach, Redondo Beach, Torrance, Long Beach, Seal Beach, Sunset Beach, and Huntington Beach. The entire way was crowded but very beautiful. I passed muscle beach and many volleyball players, bicyclists, runners, walkers, roller bladers, surfers, etc. While in Huntington Beach, I watched my bike computer turn over to 5000 miles. I felt good about that milestone! On and on I rode on this seemingly endless stretch. I don't know whether it was the heat, the stress of crowds or the sheer length of riding non-stop, but when I reached Newport Beach I was beginning to feel dizzy. This was the last thing I wanted to happen. I wasn't sure how far the next park was but I was determined and by golly I was making great time. My flow that day ever since leaving early and passing through Malibu was going smoothly. When I get my dizzy spells, I really don't want to see people. Human interaction makes me stressed and they don't know how to handle me.

Although, I do appreciate it when people offer their help or assistance. But, I am in Southern California where the meaning of hospitality is something different and the story of the Good Samaritan is not told. Because of this I pulled into the Newport Beach Nature Preserve that had a bunch of bike paths and nature trails. At one point I crashed into the side wall because I was dizzy and the two girls walking behind me immediately turned around and walked the other way. I felt lonely. I was dizzy and needed some place to rest. The sun was going down. In this preserve I found a spot to do just that until I felt better. I dismounted and laid down behind a sign using my hydration pack as a pillow. The ground was very dirty but I was in need of rest. When the sun went down I was inconspicuous and when headlights came my way I sat up to show people I was okay, not that they'd stop anyway. After a while it began to rain. It's been raining a lot for a so-called drought! Anyway, it drizzled for a long time. I laid there for several hours. By this time it was probably about 12 or 1am. Eventually I began to feel a little better and decided I better get on my way before too long. What is it with me and big cities? I have the worst of luck in them. This brought back memories of San Fran. I checked the map and made my way back to the Hwy 1 which was close by. This was a confusing area. And so I walked, and walked and walked...through the wealthy Laguna Beach and it's surrounding areas. I tried to avoid the sketchy people wandering around at night. I was also trying to find a place to charge my phone, a constant predicament. The road went up and the road went down. If I felt good enough to ride, I still wouldn't be able to because my headlight went dead when I used it back near Bodega Bay. I had no way of charging it. And so I walked...and walked through the night. I stopped off at this state wayside for awhile near the beach. I was tired...very tired...once again.

The road went up and the road went down, the road went up and the road went down...repeatedly.

August 3 (Newport Beach to Doheny State Beach, 21.48 miles) - As the sun finally came up, I entered Dana Point which marks the southern end of Hwy 1. It was fairly early in the morning when I stopped at Del Taco to get a bite to eat and charge my phone. There was a gentleman there on his laptop who chatted with me, wondering the usual, where I was from and where I was heading. He was very friendly. I got a breakfast sandwhich and sat down to charge my phone. When I was on the phone with my Dad, the Del Taco lady rudely came to me and said in broken english that I was not allowed to take up the whole table with my things and when I was finished, and ordered an ice cream cone that sucked (I don't think she's ever done a cone before - it was floppy!), she asked when I was leaving. "You have to leave sir. You can't just stay here." Wow, she was rude. Talk about customer service!! Man, I was glad to be rid of her. Mid-morning I pulled into Doheny State Beach to acquire a camping spot. However, the people at the gate told me that they would open at 4:00 to take new campers. REALLY? Oh poop. So...I went across the way to a local park and camped out for the day until I could check into the state beach. I set up camp in the covered area on a picnic table. I emptied my panniers and went through my maps and cleaned out stuff and consolidated. I ate some food, and took a nap.

When I finally was able to check in at Doheny, I rode the stretch to the hiker/biker site and set up camp right next to the English ladies. I had to confess what I was up to last night. It hadn't gone as I had hoped obviously. But I'm here and the adventure continues. Today and the subsequent night were by far the warmest yet. I was nearing the border. After setting up camp, I decided to take a walk into Dana Point, across the sky bridge/welcome sign and to Denny's, the American institution. Everyone loves Denny's! I was hankering for some $4 all-you-can-eat pancakes. My tank was close to empty and those pancakes sure hit the spot. I had wondered what the "restrictions apply" means in regards to the endless supply of pancakes. Anyway, they were filling and did what I wanted them to! Delicious! A great filling meal would follow by a good night's rest...

August 4 (Doheny to San Elijo State Beach, 48.42 miles) - I can't remember if it was today or a few days prior, but I knew it was somewhere in Southern Cali where I was pulled over by a motorcycle cop. I am always very careful to where I ride because some places it is prohibited and the signs usually tell you one way or the other. I remember this one instance where I was looking at the map and couldn't find a way around the Interstate. Most of the on-ramps or off-ramps tell you if pedestrians or bicycles are allowed and if they should exit. Well, I had to merge onto the freeway and rode for awhile all the while being a little nervous. Anyhow, a motorcycle cop pulled up in front of me and asked me if I'm from out of country. No I am not. Then he asked if I was out of state. Yes I am. He was kind of rude and insulting. "Did you not know you can't ride on freeways," he laughed. I was a little perturbed. Yes I do know that...but sometimes it is ambiguous you know! I told him sometimes you are allowed. He began to explain the difference between a freeway and highway. In the end he told me to take the next exit and follow the road that paralleled the freeway. From here I have often joked that I have been pulled over more often on my bicycle than in a car...which is true.

It was time to ride through Camp Pendleton after San Clemente. Camp Pendleton is the U.S. Marine Corps Base. I actually enjoyed riding through it seeing all the military vehicles and convoys roll passed me. The officer at the gate asked me where I was headed and said that was a long way. I chuckled inside because I knew how far I had already traveled! After Camp Pendleton I entered Oceanside, CA which was gorgeous. I could live here. It was a beautiful city right on the beach. There were many more bike paths for me to follow to get me through. It was here that I noticed my left pedal was broken. Where the reflector goes in, the metal piece was completely snapped in two, but it was still rideable. In Oceanside I found another In-N-Out Burger because I had to take advantage of them while I was down here! A couple in line let me go in front of them and told me, after learning where I was riding from, that I deserved a burger more than anyone. "Enjoy your burger" they said.

The whole time from Camp Pendleton I was paralleling I-5 which came to the coast down here.

Next was Carlsbad before coming to Encinitas where I found a bike shop to pump up my tires once again. At long last I came to San Elijo State Beach, my last stop before the border. My bed was right next to the ocean's mist. It was wonderful. Many surfers were making their way to the ocean's waves. In the evening I witnessed a miraculous sunset on the horizon of the Pacific. God is good indeed. I walked down to the bathrooms where I spent time charging my phone. There was a girl there named Emily who shared the outlet by the sink who was from the area and came here to the beach often. She was telling me that her boyfriend or someone wanted her to move to Oregon, to Glendale I think it was. She said she might do it. It would be a big change because she's used to the craziness of the LA area. But she was up for a change.

This was the last night and the last park I would have with my English friends. Tomorrow we would all make for the border but in different ways. Good night California.

August 5 (San Elijo to Chula Vista via Border Field State Park, 66.47 miles) - Farewell English ladies. Have a safe flight back to England! Well, one of them was heading back while the other was heading home to Vancouver, BC.

I was Mexico-bound. I knew I wasn't going to go into Mexico because I was warned by some friends of Mexican prisons haha. Also, I lacked a passport. There are several options for making for the border. Anne and Anna said they were actually going into Mexico to Tijuana or some other close border town. But since I couldn't do that I had my heart set on Border Field State Park...

Welcome to Solana Beach! That's one thing about SoCal, is that there is beach after beach after beach community. It's great. It seems like the life. I rode through Del Mar and through the beautiful Torrey Pines State Natural Preserve and La Jolla. It was here, or around this area I came to this beautiful park. It may have been a part of Torrey Pines. I can't remember. I couldn't take enough photos. Everything down here was gorgeous. There were runners and walkers in this park and roller bladers and other bicyclists. It was quite large. I took my time to bike through it to enjoy myself.

At long last, the city of San Diego was in my sights. It's a large, kind of confusing city. But this is another city I had wished I could spend more time in...maybe another day I suppose. There were airplanes that would fly over me every other minute it seemed like. Quite neat. It was here in San Diego where I would need to catch a train north. I had already completed the logistical things in regards to the Amtrak. I did ride to the station to make sure I knew where it was. It was near the airport. I came to the waterfront of San Diego and saw an old aircraft carrier called Midway. I again thought of Grandpa. I then made for the border. I passed through National City which is the city of the "Mile of Cars." This is the city full of car dealerships...everywhere you look. I ate at In-N-Out for the last time and got a wonderful chocolate shake. Then came Chula Vista and Imperial Beach...and finally Border Field. I saw a glimpse into Mexico. Of course there was a huge fence blocking our country from theirs and a border patrol vehicle stationed in the park. When I got here, there was no one here but me. I could see San Diego from here. I got out my two small sparkling ciders for this very occasion, cracked them open and drank like I was a king! I had made it. I rode a bicycle here from Oregon, under my own power creating perfect circles every step of the way.

I had previously made contact with a warmshowers host in Chula Vista to stay with before I left tomorrow to head north on the train. When I was finished taking in the border, the ocean and the awe-inspiring magnitude of my accomplishment, I rode on towards Chula Vista. Armando Arce and his wife Maria were wonderful. They were so kind to me to open their lovely house for a brief stay. Armando even said I could stay another night but I had a train to catch, otherwise I would take him up on that offer. The conversations I had with them were great. I had made some new friends. Armando is a cyclist himself and I enjoyed hearing about his upcoming November trip from San Diego to Cabo. I wish I could join him. That sounds like it would be a blast. I met their son and daughter who came briefly and left. They offered me some cucumbers with some spices on it for a snack before our wonderful meal of steak and potatoes and whatever else Maria cooked up. She is a wonderful cook! I took a shower and slept in a soft warm bed which felt so good. This was a great way to end a trip to the border. I thanked Armando and Maria immensely for my stay at their house. It truly was a beautiful house. Maria actually began a job working with special needs students at a local school. I learned that when I told her that's what I do.

I had time the next day, but had to say goodbye to Armando so I could make it to San Diego Amtrak in plenty of time before the train would take me up north via San Luis Obispo to Klamath Falls where I would hop back on my bike and complete my Perfect Circles odyssey...





















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