Thursday, May 5, 2005 (Salem, Oregon to Newport to South Beach State Park, 14 miles)
Today started off rocky when my Dad woke me up at 7:00am. I had a bad headache. After finishing my packing, Dad and I drove to Newport where I would begin my adventure. We ate lunch at Arby's and I was dizzy from anxiety. We unloaded my bike and gear and it was HEAVY! I thought I was gonna die! Dad was gonna meet me at South Beach State Park two miles away. However, he forgot about the huge bridge, so I had to walk the whole freakin' long bridge. At South Beach, Dad left me. I decided to try and ride to Beachside State Park, 17 miles away. Seven miles later, I felt dizzy and stopped at Huckleberry Hill. I laid down and felt like Mega-CRAP. I felt like I was gonna puke. Hours later, a car pulled up to check the mail. Someone who looked like Taffy Rabb, a family friend, got out and I used her phone to call Mom - not at church, talked to Taffy, called Dad!! A little while later I did throw up - twice - my curly fries. It was gross. I walked/rode my bike back to South Beach. A guy later offered to help, but I was good. I called home at South Beach and Mom said I'd be fine. I questioned why I'm doing this trip. I prayed and God answered and I got better. I pitched my tent and slept!
Friday, May 6, 2005 (South Beach to Carl G. Washburne State Park, 30 miles)
5:15am. I hear my tent rustle. Am I being attacked? I try to go back to bed. I hear it again. I look through the window and see something move. I notice my chicken bag missing. I open the tent cautiously and look to the right. I see a racoon eating my chicken. He turns around into attack mode, while I find my weapon of choice - a camera! I turn my phaser to stun (flash). I scared the coon and he deserved it for eating my breakfast! I couldn't get back to sleep so I packed up and left South Beach. Traveling south on Highway 101 I stopped at Lost Creek - cool place - took pictures. Between towns there are a lot of woodcarving places.
It began to rain on me some today. Great way to start my trip! I stopped frequently at viewpoints and take pictures! I stopped in Yachats to buy some food after Waldport. Traveled past Cape Perpetua and decided to go on to Carl Washburne State Park. Crossed over from Lincoln County to Lane County. Stopped at Alsea Bay - a beautiful place. The ocean is amazing. It never ceases to amaze me! At Carl Washburne State Park, I quickly pitched my tent and then took a shower. It felt good! I ate a bagel, then took a nap, at 3:00pm, then it was dark. I thought about lots while lying down.
Passed Seal Rocks, Devil's Churn and other chasms. The crashing waves were awesome.
Saturday, May 7, 2005 (Carl G. Washburne to Umpqua Lighthouse State Park, 50 miles)
I got up around 7 (16 hours of sleep - wow). I packed up after I paid the ranger lady and left about 8:00. I rode to Heceta Head and rode down to the beach cove. I didn't hike up to the lighthouse. I took some pictures and went back up. I rode over the bridge and went in the road and took a pic of the Cape Creek Tunnel. The tunnel was scary. The thundering of the cars - but it was fun. I stopped at several viewpoints. I have never seen so much of the ocean all at once - amazing. Panoramic. I stopped at the Sea Lion Caves - bought a postcard and a keychain. The caves cost $8.00 which is retarded. Needless to say I didn't go. But it was an awesome place. I rode into Florence and called home. I bought a foot long sub and ate at Taco Bell. Went to a bike shop - pumped up my tires and checked the pressure. Found a post office - sent my postcard. Rode through Glenada and stopped at Jesse Honeyman State Park at 2:00. I decided to move on. The road moved away from the ocean. A bunch of nothing for miles. Passed into Douglas County - Oregon Dunes - Dunes City - pretty cool place! Stopped at Oregon Dunes overlook - awesome! Went up huge hill - tired! Went down huge hill - relief! Rode though Gardiner, a small town. Rode through Reedsport - cool town. Rode into Winchester Bay - Rain and wind! I stopped at Windy Cove/Salmon off Route - wind and rain - right on bay, too open and windy. Rode up long hill to Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. I saw Robert Mitchell here at the hiker/biker site, a friend from college. I stayed with him. It's still raining. Put up tent in record-time! Ate sub and bagel and apple! 50 miles today at least. An eventful day! Goodnight - 9:12pm.
Sunday, May 8, 2005 (Umpqua Lighthouse to Sunset Bay State Park, 40 miles)
As I sit here in Sunset Bay listening to a family nearby playing games, I wish my own family could be here! As I eat my bagel, I thank God for the glimpses of blue and the small amounts of sunshine. First night without rain. My tent is laid out trying to dry itself. Today was a very frustrating day!! It started by going uphill. Bidding farewell to Robert (he was heading north, me south) after we prayed, I was on my way. After passing into Coos County I came to Lakeside. I had no trouble this morning despite the cold and drizzle. I finally came to Oregon's Bay Area. Going across a huge bridge, I entered North Bend. At the visitor's center, the lady told me about the bike route and two clipper ships in the bay - last day here. I entered Coos Bay and saw the two ships - very cool! After some time I found the road connecting Coos Bay and the bike route - after calling hoe - no answer - busy signal. Half way up Ocean Blvd. my chain quit and caught. An hour later I got it uncaught, but it was still messed up. Walking/riding to the highway, I was mad. Along the highway I was cursing and praying for my bike. I entered Charleston. A nice old lady I met at the visitor's center. I called home for the fifth time today - BUSY! Dang it! More frustration! After deciding what to do, I rode 5 miles out of the way to Sunset Bay - called home!! Happy Mother's Day! Went down the road several miles to Simpson Reef - 100s of sea lions. Bike chain still screwed - please pray! My chain quit on the uphill - unsympathetic cars drove on by. I was so mad and frustrated today.
Monday, May 9, 2005 (Sunset Bay to North Bend - Motel 6, 25 miles)
Today was sucky! I don't know how else to describe it. I woke up to lots of rain! I had to get to a bike shop to fix my dumb bike. The closest one was 14 miles north in North Bend. In the downpour I rode to North Bend. I felt like I was riding in the ocean! At Sunset Bay, calling Dad, trying to know what to do, a lady saw my miserable self and knocked on the phone booth. I turned around, opened it and she gave me some hot chai tea and a cookie!! In North Bend I found the bike shop - replaced the rear chain bracket thing, the old one was busted. He told me of a motel to stay in. so I headed down to Motel 6 on 101 - shower, got dry, dried tent, etc...slept in nice bed!! Watched movies!
Tuesday, May 10, 2005 (North Bend to Bullards Beach State Park, 40 miles)
Today was a mega-sucky day! I left the warm motel and headed back to Charleston. Called Dad. Today was worse than yesterday. The rain never stopped. 2-4 inches of rain - the most rain in Oregon at the time - and I was in the center of it all! My gloves were like sponges. I couldn't feel my toes or my whole hands. I needed to go to Bandon - 27 miles away. So that's what I did. 27 miles in a huge downpour - everything wet - shivering - could barely see - felt delusional - seemed to hallucinate. I thought Seven Devil's Road would never end. Now I know why they call it Seven Devils. A truck zoomed by me and splashed me - a huge tidal wave coming over me. Sorry God, change my attitude. You are there protecting me. I know it. My life isn't over yet. Forgive me of my despair and frustration! Please! Shortly after I arrived in Bandon, the rain held up. What are the odds. I looked for a motel or hostel - Dad suggested a yurt. I finally decided to ride back a mile to Bullards Beach State Park. That was a nice park except for one thing - death defying mosquitoes. Huge bugs everywhere - I thought I was gonna get malaria! I dried some of my things and took a shower!
Wednesday, May 11, 2005 (Bullards Beach to Humbug Mountain State Park, 40 miles)
The LORD is good. Beautiful day! The storm halted for a time. Got sun burnt! Ouch! I rode through some small communities today. Langlois - stopped off at the library - nice little town. Denmark - where is it? Here is a sign but no town! Sixes - small town and rode on by. Port Orford - nice views of the ocean here! Called Dad. I made it to Humbug Mountain. Windy place. Set up tent - blew across camp. A guy with his dog helped me hold it down while I staked it! Set up camp and went poop. Found my way to trailhead - hiked Humbug Mountain - 3 miles straight up with switch backs - brought back memories. Took hours - nice view at the summit, well not really. I know why it's called Humbug Mountain! A small glimpse of the ocean behind the tree line. I climbed down - legs are SORE! At camp I walked to the beach and saw an otter trying to swim.
Thursday, May 12, 2005 (Humbug Mountain to Harris Beach State Park, 50 miles)
What a long day! 50-60 miles today. Nice weather for a change. Started at 8:00 - arrived in campground at 4:00pm. Today was all about hills hills hills! Huge hills! Huge uphills - downhills - winding hills - sore butt hills!! My legs and bum are sore!! Tons of ocean views today. I thought I'd never make it to Harris Beach - 2 miles north of Brookings. Well, I'm here. Only one main town on the way - and that was Gold Beach. I'm even more sun burnt now. The shower tonight was a bit rough. Tomorrow I head for Cali - LORD willing.
Friday, May 13, 2005 (Harris Beach to Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, 30 miles)
I made it passed Brookings into California! Called home at Smith River. I made it finally to my turning point - Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Only $3.00 for a hiker/biker site! The phone's out of order and the visitor's center is closed. I went for a walk down a nature trail. The redwoods are giant trees man! I feel so small next to them. Ate some food and went to bed to rest muscles.
Saturday, May 14, 2005 (Jedediah Smith to Crescent City & back to Jedediah Smith, 20 miles)
Even though I haven't seen a lot of the redwoods, I've seen enough to know how big my God is! I spent most of the day in Crescent City doing laundry, eating, calling, etc... It was a 20 mile round trip up hills. This was supposed to be my rest day. Oh well. I asked God for strength. Hopefully I won't have a bloody nose tonight like the last two nights! I called before laundry again - not enough credit? As I passed the theater, was tempted to see Kingdom of Heaven, but got to the task at hand.
I'm sitting on the bank of Smith River. What an awesome river - like something out of a movie - a western or a medieval movie. It's pretty awesome. I decided to wade in the water some - cold but it felt oh so good. Very cold - but nice!! Saw a deer - one time without my camera!
Sunday, May 15, 2005 (Jedediah Smith to Valley of the Rouge State Park, 100 miles)
I rode at least 100 miles today. I began at 8:00am. - arrived at 9:30pm. Three counties, 11 towns, uphills, downhills, rain and shine. I left the Redwoods - came to Panther Flat, then Grassy Flat (closed), finally to Patrick Creek - phone still did not work. I followed the mountain highway along Smith River. Stopped at a rest area to eat lunch. Crossed a long tunnel and came back to Oregon. I entered O'Brien...8 miles of flatness to Cave Junction. I sent a postcard and had something at Dairy Queen. I rode 30 miles to Grants Pass. I got confused on which way to go. I ended up in Rouge River. Went six miles in the wrong direction to Gold Hill. Finally got good directions and rode 6-8 miles in the dark to Valley of the Rogue State Park - followed the river - a hidden park, very hard to find. There were a few very small street signs directing me to the park. I saw a deer bounding along the railroad tracks while I was riding along, saw another deer staring at me. Took a picture of him. Set up tent in the dark quietly by an RV - took a shower, went to bed.
Monday, May 16, 2005 (Valley of the Rouge to Joseph H. Stewart State Park, 40 miles)
Today I headed NE and came back to Gold Hill - passed Sams Valley. I rode many miles to Shady Cove where I ate lunch and waited for the rain to stop. I rode to Lost Creek Reservoir - huge hill! It started to pour rain. CRAP. Not again. I was unprepared this time - everything got soaked. There was a 6% downgrade for a mile and rode to Stewart State Park. Found bathroom, put bike in bathroom - took a shower, dried off. Finally - sun - then rain - then sun - then rain - saw a rainbow. This is Oregon. Got tent up, looked at lake, huge bug in tent - it fell into my trap - dead bug! Rain again - fell asleep to the rain on my tent.
Oh, and a dog chased me today - of course. No surprise there.
Tuesday, May 17, 2005 (Joseph Stewart State Park, 00.00 miles)
Woke up with a bad headache. I stayed here at the state park another day. Rain on and off. Took a shower to keep warm! It was oh so cold. Walked the 2.3 mile trail along the lake to the marina and back.
Wednesday, May 18, 2005 (Joseph Stewart to Diamond Lake, 46 miles)
Today was cold, wet and miserable. Everything was soaked. And I mean everything! It rained all day long. I was freezing and it was all uphill - practically all 46 miles. It took me forever to get to Diamond Lake. Nice views of the mountains though. My body is numb - entire body. I put up my tent and the tent, inside and out is wet - everything is wet! Bathrooms are locked and no showers. I went to bed shivering! Saw lots of snow here and on my way - over 5000 feet in elevation. My breath was almost pure white - COLD!!
Thursday, May 19, 2005 (Diamond Lake, 00.00 miles)
Today I relaxed at Diamond Lake despite the intense cold. I am freezing. Walked 3 miles to the store and back to keep warm. I talked with Dad. It warmed up - but still cold. Rain - shine - rain - shine - can't make up its mind.
Friday, May 20, 2005 (Diamond Lake to Rosland Campground near La Pine, 70 miles)
Man, today I thought I was in Never Never Land - clouds, rain, sun, snow, mountains, desert, wind, hail, vultures," Kamikazi Bugs" I got everything. Kamikazi bugs were these nasty little bugs that kept flying into me as I rode along. I would slap them on my legs and body... Out of Diamond Lake I hit Cascade Summit (5,925 feet) From there I descended at least a 1000!! The route I wanted to take didn't happen - a scenic mountain road that would ascend to over 7,000 feet and it just opened 3 days ago - so there would be snow and cold temps. I rode about 70 miles today to La Pine - I'm at Rosland Campground. A small little place. Cheap! ($2.00/night)
Saturday, May 21, 2005 (Rosland Campground, 10 miles)
Today I relaxed at Rosland Campground. Went to Dairy Queen, called home, fixed toe clips, did a workout. I need to go to a bike shop tomorrow in Bend. Weather today was nice - hot in my tent though. But I'll take it! The camp host is a very nice man!
Sunday, May 22, 2005 (Rosland to Bend to Tumalo State Park to Sisters, 50 miles)
I woke up early today - cold!! 5:00am. I laid in bed for about 1.5 hours and then got ready - an early start. I left about 7:00am - maybe a bit earlier. The day slowly warmed up - a change for me!! It was cold at times. I got to Bend at 9:30am - 30 miles. What a crazy city! Hard to find stuff. Confusing. Found a bike shop barely. I decided to move on to Tumalo State Park to meet Mom and Dad who were driving out from Salem. What an awesome view of the mountains - Three Sisters! Mom and Dad arrived - with Kissi dog!! She was excited to see me. Dad rode with me to Sisters - had ice cream and met Mom at the Best Western. There was a huge headwind against us the entire way! Sorry Dad, who was normally my navigator back home. Today was awesomely gorgeous! Sun came out finally! Horray! We had pizza and Dad and I sat in the hot tub - AWW, feels good on my muscles! So good. Slept good in a bed! Slept with dog!
Monday, May 23, 2005 (Sisters to Jack Creek, 20 miles)
Woke up with another bad headache - no fun! Had an awesome breakfast in the motel! We all packed up and Dad and I rode out to Jack Creek - 20 miles or so - an amazing day - best day yet. Can't believe how nice and warm it is - a bit cool, but a whole lot better than what I was used to earlier in the trip. We met Mom at Jack Creek and ate some lunch. Mom and Dad and Kissi got ready to leave and left me at Jack Creek. It has a different look to it - but still the same. Hiked to the headwaters and around - lots of the forest has been burned and trees are down. Clouds look like a painting - a picture - what an amazing God we serve!! It's a bit chilly here, but paradise to what lies behind me! Thank you LORD!! The pink clouds and sky is awesome. The islands are really cool - a good place to film a movie! I saw 4 deer in my campsite tonight. I saw them bound away, their white tails sticking up in the air. God is good! Ouch, a mosquito! Made a fire! The first of the trip - "With this, I make fire!"
Tuesday, May 24, 2005 (Jack Creek, 00.00 miles)
I woke up to a woodpecker! I am cold this morning but it will warm up - the sun/Son is shining!! Creatures invaded my camp last night! I would move and make a noise, then I would here footsteps or hooves scurry away. What a gorgeous day God has created for me! I hiked down to the headwaters again, climbed the hill, looked at the mountains, walked down the road, did a lot of walking...a nice change to life in the saddle. I explored the islands some more too. Tonight I built a N.I.C.E. fire (Nuclear, Insane, Chaotic and Explosive)! That's how fires should be. I burned everything in sight - all the stuff I had and then some. This was my last night here. The trees were scared and so was my hair! Good night and Delicious Dreams!!
Wednesday, May 25, 2005 (Jack Creek to Detroit Lake State Park, 55 miles)
As I sit here looking out at Detroit Lake and the mountains beyond, I think about the day. Wow - God is so good! I got a late start this morning, leaving Jack Creek just before 9:00. I was tired from the previous eventful day. All that relaxing did me in. I saw two more deer this morning on my way to the headwaters to fill my water bottles A seven mile uphill was waiting for me just out of Jack Creek. At 11:20am I made it to Santiam Pass (4815 feet). From there I descended at least 3000 feet. Both Hwy 20 and 22 have lots of construction and road/bridge work on them. At times the wind would push me backwards. I saw great views of Black Butte, Mt. Washington, Mt. Jefferson and 3-toed Jack - oops, I mean Three Fingered Jack!! The day was breezy and hot! Got to Detroit at 2:00 - about 55 miles today! Chipmunks are all around me - at least 4 or 5 chasing each other, climbing on my bike and panniers - picnic table, practically on my lap - obviously not afraid of e - yet! One just licked where Kissi licks - they're making funny noises - I'm being attacked and invaded it seems. My lower, right leg is throbbing with pain. Took a shower - feel better!
Thursday, May 26, 2005 (Detroit Lake to Silver Falls State Park, 50 miles)
This morning I was invaded, not by chipmunks, but by ducks - at least 4. They came in from the water front. They wanted my bagel I think. I had to fight them off. I left Detroit Lake at 8:20am. Two miles later, at Detroit Dam, I felt extremely dizzy - I couldn't ride anymore - could barely walk in a straight line. Well, I managed to get to a cutoff to lay down behind a guardrail for over an hour, two maybe. I was praying! I took pills, drank water. I finally got up, ate some frosted animal cookies and felt better and rode on. At about 11:30 I made it to Gates where I called Dad to explain what happened - there was no phone at the rest area (5 miles from where I laid). In Mill City I got a fat ice cream cone and smothered myself with sunscreen. This was by far my hottest day out! - in the 90s or more! Still got sunburnt - ha! I made it to Sublimity at 2:00. Silver Falls was 12 miles from there. At 4:30 I made it to Silver Falls at last - longest 12 miles of my life! My Dad had mentioned over the phone it was all down hill to Silver Falls. I'm not sure if he was playing a cruel joke or was just ignorant of geography. But it was all uphill - the entire way!! There were some rolling hills - and all this in the scorching heat - no shade - had to pee the whole time - had a headache and no cold water - water bottles all had hot water in them. I almost threw up from dehydration and exhaustion! I could barely walk my bike, let alone ride it.
I saw half a deer today.
The last two miles were straight down - took seconds. I went less than 6mph the whole time up! I was drenched with sweat - my whole body was liquid! I would never have thought when I began this trip that I would complain about the heat! Well, God is good - I made it, got water, took a shower and ate food! Feel much much much better - Praise the LORD! My bed is awaiting.
Hey, another touring cyclist pulled into the site next to mine! Looks like he has a similar tent - different but pretty similar. His name is Michael, from Mcminville. He's getting ready for a trip from Montana to Boston. He wants to do it next week. First time he's done this. He rode from Champoeg (my starting point essentially) and doing a three-day trip in preparation. He asked my advice on packing and stuff. He's a nice guy. I ate cornmeal mush with him and we talked some more.
About 50 miles today I rode again! Mosquitoes are attacking me - Hayyah!! I'll karate chop them if I have to! My tent smells!
Friday, May 27, 2005 (Silver Falls to Canyonview Camp, Silverton, Oregon, 20 miles)
Today I woke up early and decided to hike the 8.5 mile Canyon Trail - Trail of the Ten Falls (There's actually 11). I had the entire trail to myself for the vast majority of the trip - up until Double Falls at the end of my hike. Then, swarms of kids began to travel in groups opposing me. It must've been some kind of massive field trip or something! I took the Rim Trail back to South Falls Lodge and saw tons of kids and people everywhere - seven school buses!! Got back to my campsite & called Dad! - saw a slug. Took me about 4.5 hours - walking/hiking!! Legs are poooooooooooooped!! Anyway, I'm back - got my stuff all packed up and ready to go and hit the road one last time.
I also hiked the closed trails too. Don't tell anyone!! Down to Lower South Falls. Now I know why they closed it. Washed out trail and stairs - dangerous! But that's how I roll!
Beautiful scenery and water mist - water falls crashing down. Been here a hundred times but every time it's awesome! God is good! Well, I made it to Silverton about 3:30 - left at 1:45, rolling hills - last 4 miles downhill practically in the beating sun! but God remains to be good! I'm eating a Moolatte @ DQ! I deserve it! Muahaha! I made it! Despite the lack of faith in my siblings! Thanks for the faith in me Mom and Dad, LORD and me too!
Wildlife I saw
Deer, crickets, flies, bees, mosquitoes, ants, earwigs, horses, cows, sheep, woodpeckers, blue jays, llamas, dogs, cats, chipmunks, squirrels, racoons, slugs, snails, birds
Counties (13)
Lincoln, Lane, Douglas, Coos, Curry, Del Norte, Josephine, Jackson, Klamath, Deshutes, Jefferson, Linn, Marion
National Forests (8)
Siuslaw, Siskiou, Six Rivers, Rogue River, Umpqua, Winema, Deschutes, Willamette
Total Approximate Mileage Distance
800 miles
*Note: The following pictures were taken from a disposable camera. Please excuse the quality.
