Pacific Coast, part 5: Goleta to the Mexican Border

August 1 (Goleta to Leo Carillo State Beach, 74.36 miles) - After drinking up Jesse's coffee, I hit the road. Next up was Santa Barbara where they were getting ready for some parade or something along the main stretch. This was another city I wish I could've spent more time in. It seem like a fun town to explore. There were palm trees everywhere. I was now in Southern California. I'm not quite sure where the dividing line quite is between the North and South. Along the beach there were volleyball nets set up. Seems like the life - playing beach volleyball all the time! I also passed this stretch of RV Parking. I kid you not - there were miles of RV and motor homes along this specific parking section along the beach. People just set up camp there as they took part in their personal festivities at the beach. This definitely was beach culture. The further south I traveled, I noticed a surf shop on every corner practically. I passed Santa Claus Lane after Carpenteria State Beach near Ventura.

Ventura was the place I had planned to stay earlier which did not work out to my benefit. Through Ventura, there was a very nice bike path as was most of southern Cali at this point. I stopped at a bike shop to fill up my tires with air and passed Wooley Road!! There also must be a Navy base nearby or something because I passed a place with models of jets and rockets and navy planes which was really cool. I thought of my Grandpa when I saw these. There were a few other bicyclists there too including one with an electric bike. I found out later that there are a lot of electric bike shops because people down here have money and can afford them. Ah, there it is...sure enough there was Venutra County Naval Base in Oxnard.

As I pulled into Leo Carrillo State Park, the young Park Ranger told me that there was a lot of bikers and wasn't sure if there was room. I was a little shocked but also dubious. He told me I could go take a look if I like. After giving me directions, I rode down there and after finding it laughed to myself because there were only a few cyclists and plenty of room. Why don't people understand that all I need is a small patch of grass to curl up on for a night? I'm sure ten more people could've fit in this little spot. I befriended my neighbors there and they offered some brownies which were delicious. And back in the grove I saw my English friends! They had wondered what happened to me and I them haha. They were following much of the Pacific Coast bicycling book and I had a few warm showers hosts and therefore we became separated for a few days. It was good to be back on track. They had asked what I planned to do tomorrow because there really isn't a campsite for another 100 miles or maybe even more. They had planned to stay in a hotel or hostel somewhere near Los Angeles. Me, I wasn't quite sure. Secretly, since I'm such a snob about saving money and not paying for a hotel or the like, I had wanted to wake early and see how far I made it...at least try to make it past the LA area to the next park which would make for one loooooong day. It would be well over 100 miles, maybe about 120 miles away. I thought I could do it. YAY for adventure! Or at least misadventures!!

August 2 (Leo Carillo to Newport Beach, 101.00 miles) - Somewhere between yesterday and today, or at some unofficial overlook, I stopped to snap a few photos of the view and leaned my bike up against a tree. Well, I had a moment of panic because I heard a slide and looked behind me and my bike was slipping when a German tourist caught it just in time. My bike almost fell off the cliff. That German I thanked very much. He saved me!

Early in the morning, I entered Malibu and filled my hydro flask with some warm coffee at a gas station because it was a chilly morning with fog rolling in. Well, the fog was already in. I didn't see any celebrities or get to enjoy Malibu that much because of the thick fog and mist. Malibu ran for about 27 miles and was advertised as "27 miles of scenic beauty," but unfortunately I was unable to see much of that beauty. I took the sign's word for it though. I just plowed through and made perfect circles all the way to Santa Monica 30 miles away. I wasn't sure where I was going to lay my head tonight, so I just had to move. That didn't stop me from enjoying myself or taking pictures though.

Through much of today, I rode right along the beach where there was a well-maintained bicycle path. And the further I rode the more crowds there were. There were lights indicating when you have to dismount your bike and walk do to the flow of pedestrian traffic. It was pretty crazy. And so I rode through Malibu, Santa Monica, passed LAX, Manhattan Beach, Redondo Beach, Torrance, Long Beach, Seal Beach, Sunset Beach, and Huntington Beach. The entire way was crowded but very beautiful. I passed muscle beach and many volleyball players, bicyclists, runners, walkers, roller bladers, surfers, etc. While in Huntington Beach, I watched my bike computer turn over to 5000 miles. I felt good about that milestone! On and on I rode on this seemingly endless stretch. I don't know whether it was the heat, the stress of crowds or the sheer length of riding non-stop, but when I reached Newport Beach I was beginning to feel dizzy. This was the last thing I wanted to happen. I wasn't sure how far the next park was but I was determined and by golly I was making great time. My flow that day ever since leaving early and passing through Malibu was going smoothly. When I get my dizzy spells, I really don't want to see people. Human interaction makes me stressed and they don't know how to handle me.

Although, I do appreciate it when people offer their help or assistance. But, I am in Southern California where the meaning of hospitality is something different and the story of the Good Samaritan is not told. Because of this I pulled into the Newport Beach Nature Preserve that had a bunch of bike paths and nature trails. At one point I crashed into the side wall because I was dizzy and the two girls walking behind me immediately turned around and walked the other way. I felt lonely. I was dizzy and needed some place to rest. The sun was going down. In this preserve I found a spot to do just that until I felt better. I dismounted and laid down behind a sign using my hydration pack as a pillow. The ground was very dirty but I was in need of rest. When the sun went down I was inconspicuous and when headlights came my way I sat up to show people I was okay, not that they'd stop anyway. After a while it began to rain. It's been raining a lot for a so-called drought! Anyway, it drizzled for a long time. I laid there for several hours. By this time it was probably about 12 or 1am. Eventually I began to feel a little better and decided I better get on my way before too long. What is it with me and big cities? I have the worst of luck in them. This brought back memories of San Fran. I checked the map and made my way back to the Hwy 1 which was close by. This was a confusing area. And so I walked, and walked and walked...through the wealthy Laguna Beach and it's surrounding areas. I tried to avoid the sketchy people wandering around at night. I was also trying to find a place to charge my phone, a constant predicament. The road went up and the road went down. If I felt good enough to ride, I still wouldn't be able to because my headlight went dead when I used it back near Bodega Bay. I had no way of charging it. And so I walked...and walked through the night. I stopped off at this state wayside for awhile near the beach. I was tired...very tired...once again.

The road went up and the road went down, the road went up and the road went down...repeatedly.

August 3 (Newport Beach to Doheny State Beach, 21.48 miles) - As the sun finally came up, I entered Dana Point which marks the southern end of Hwy 1. It was fairly early in the morning when I stopped at Del Taco to get a bite to eat and charge my phone. There was a gentleman there on his laptop who chatted with me, wondering the usual, where I was from and where I was heading. He was very friendly. I got a breakfast sandwhich and sat down to charge my phone. When I was on the phone with my Dad, the Del Taco lady rudely came to me and said in broken english that I was not allowed to take up the whole table with my things and when I was finished, and ordered an ice cream cone that sucked (I don't think she's ever done a cone before - it was floppy!), she asked when I was leaving. "You have to leave sir. You can't just stay here." Wow, she was rude. Talk about customer service!! Man, I was glad to be rid of her. Mid-morning I pulled into Doheny State Beach to acquire a camping spot. However, the people at the gate told me that they would open at 4:00 to take new campers. REALLY? Oh poop. So...I went across the way to a local park and camped out for the day until I could check into the state beach. I set up camp in the covered area on a picnic table. I emptied my panniers and went through my maps and cleaned out stuff and consolidated. I ate some food, and took a nap.

When I finally was able to check in at Doheny, I rode the stretch to the hiker/biker site and set up camp right next to the English ladies. I had to confess what I was up to last night. It hadn't gone as I had hoped obviously. But I'm here and the adventure continues. Today and the subsequent night were by far the warmest yet. I was nearing the border. After setting up camp, I decided to take a walk into Dana Point, across the sky bridge/welcome sign and to Denny's, the American institution. Everyone loves Denny's! I was hankering for some $4 all-you-can-eat pancakes. My tank was close to empty and those pancakes sure hit the spot. I had wondered what the "restrictions apply" means in regards to the endless supply of pancakes. Anyway, they were filling and did what I wanted them to! Delicious! A great filling meal would follow by a good night's rest...

August 4 (Doheny to San Elijo State Beach, 48.42 miles) - I can't remember if it was today or a few days prior, but I knew it was somewhere in Southern Cali where I was pulled over by a motorcycle cop. I am always very careful to where I ride because some places it is prohibited and the signs usually tell you one way or the other. I remember this one instance where I was looking at the map and couldn't find a way around the Interstate. Most of the on-ramps or off-ramps tell you if pedestrians or bicycles are allowed and if they should exit. Well, I had to merge onto the freeway and rode for awhile all the while being a little nervous. Anyhow, a motorcycle cop pulled up in front of me and asked me if I'm from out of country. No I am not. Then he asked if I was out of state. Yes I am. He was kind of rude and insulting. "Did you not know you can't ride on freeways," he laughed. I was a little perturbed. Yes I do know that...but sometimes it is ambiguous you know! I told him sometimes you are allowed. He began to explain the difference between a freeway and highway. In the end he told me to take the next exit and follow the road that paralleled the freeway. From here I have often joked that I have been pulled over more often on my bicycle than in a car...which is true.

It was time to ride through Camp Pendleton after San Clemente. Camp Pendleton is the U.S. Marine Corps Base. I actually enjoyed riding through it seeing all the military vehicles and convoys roll passed me. The officer at the gate asked me where I was headed and said that was a long way. I chuckled inside because I knew how far I had already traveled! After Camp Pendleton I entered Oceanside, CA which was gorgeous. I could live here. It was a beautiful city right on the beach. There were many more bike paths for me to follow to get me through. It was here that I noticed my left pedal was broken. Where the reflector goes in, the metal piece was completely snapped in two, but it was still rideable. In Oceanside I found another In-N-Out Burger because I had to take advantage of them while I was down here! A couple in line let me go in front of them and told me, after learning where I was riding from, that I deserved a burger more than anyone. "Enjoy your burger" they said.

The whole time from Camp Pendleton I was paralleling I-5 which came to the coast down here.

Next was Carlsbad before coming to Encinitas where I found a bike shop to pump up my tires once again. At long last I came to San Elijo State Beach, my last stop before the border. My bed was right next to the ocean's mist. It was wonderful. Many surfers were making their way to the ocean's waves. In the evening I witnessed a miraculous sunset on the horizon of the Pacific. God is good indeed. I walked down to the bathrooms where I spent time charging my phone. There was a girl there named Emily who shared the outlet by the sink who was from the area and came here to the beach often. She was telling me that her boyfriend or someone wanted her to move to Oregon, to Glendale I think it was. She said she might do it. It would be a big change because she's used to the craziness of the LA area. But she was up for a change.

This was the last night and the last park I would have with my English friends. Tomorrow we would all make for the border but in different ways. Good night California.

August 5 (San Elijo to Chula Vista via Border Field State Park, 66.47 miles) - Farewell English ladies. Have a safe flight back to England! Well, one of them was heading back while the other was heading home to Vancouver, BC.

I was Mexico-bound. I knew I wasn't going to go into Mexico because I was warned by some friends of Mexican prisons haha. Also, I lacked a passport. There are several options for making for the border. Anne and Anna said they were actually going into Mexico to Tijuana or some other close border town. But since I couldn't do that I had my heart set on Border Field State Park...

Welcome to Solana Beach! That's one thing about SoCal, is that there is beach after beach after beach community. It's great. It seems like the life. I rode through Del Mar and through the beautiful Torrey Pines State Natural Preserve and La Jolla. It was here, or around this area I came to this beautiful park. It may have been a part of Torrey Pines. I can't remember. I couldn't take enough photos. Everything down here was gorgeous. There were runners and walkers in this park and roller bladers and other bicyclists. It was quite large. I took my time to bike through it to enjoy myself.

At long last, the city of San Diego was in my sights. It's a large, kind of confusing city. But this is another city I had wished I could spend more time in...maybe another day I suppose. There were airplanes that would fly over me every other minute it seemed like. Quite neat. It was here in San Diego where I would need to catch a train north. I had already completed the logistical things in regards to the Amtrak. I did ride to the station to make sure I knew where it was. It was near the airport. I came to the waterfront of San Diego and saw an old aircraft carrier called Midway. I again thought of Grandpa. I then made for the border. I passed through National City which is the city of the "Mile of Cars." This is the city full of car dealerships...everywhere you look. I ate at In-N-Out for the last time and got a wonderful chocolate shake. Then came Chula Vista and Imperial Beach...and finally Border Field. I saw a glimpse into Mexico. Of course there was a huge fence blocking our country from theirs and a border patrol vehicle stationed in the park. When I got here, there was no one here but me. I could see San Diego from here. I got out my two small sparkling ciders for this very occasion, cracked them open and drank like I was a king! I had made it. I rode a bicycle here from Oregon, under my own power creating perfect circles every step of the way.

I had previously made contact with a warmshowers host in Chula Vista to stay with before I left tomorrow to head north on the train. When I was finished taking in the border, the ocean and the awe-inspiring magnitude of my accomplishment, I rode on towards Chula Vista. Armando Arce and his wife Maria were wonderful. They were so kind to me to open their lovely house for a brief stay. Armando even said I could stay another night but I had a train to catch, otherwise I would take him up on that offer. The conversations I had with them were great. I had made some new friends. Armando is a cyclist himself and I enjoyed hearing about his upcoming November trip from San Diego to Cabo. I wish I could join him. That sounds like it would be a blast. I met their son and daughter who came briefly and left. They offered me some cucumbers with some spices on it for a snack before our wonderful meal of steak and potatoes and whatever else Maria cooked up. She is a wonderful cook! I took a shower and slept in a soft warm bed which felt so good. This was a great way to end a trip to the border. I thanked Armando and Maria immensely for my stay at their house. It truly was a beautiful house. Maria actually began a job working with special needs students at a local school. I learned that when I told her that's what I do.

I had time the next day, but had to say goodbye to Armando so I could make it to San Diego Amtrak in plenty of time before the train would take me up north via San Luis Obispo to Klamath Falls where I would hop back on my bike and complete my Perfect Circles odyssey...

Pacific Coast, part 4: San Francisco to Goleta

July 25 (San Francisco to Half-Moon Bay State Park, 41.54 miles) - When sun had shown it's face and when I could finally see something, I was on the road again. I picked up some supplies at Grocery Outlet, had a quick bite to eat and I was southbound. I really enjoyed cycling by Ocean Beach. It's this long stretch of beach that stretches the length of San Francisco's western edge. As I rode south, the country and city had a different feel. Daly City was pretty cool. It didn't look like San Fran at all...bunch of houses and buildings set together. I was out of the forest so the sun beat down upon me. I stopped at a convenience store to restock on ice and beverages as was my custom whenever one came up.

I stopped for a break in Pacifica and the lady at the visitor's center was very kind and offered local knowledge. I was following my bicycle route on Google and therefore was away from Hwy 1. However, Google maps isn't always nice to you and often it takes you places where you may not wish to go. This was the case with the Pedro Mountain Road Trail in McNee Ranch State Park. The route would take me through this park but basically it was over a mountain. It was not paved at all. It was more of a mountain bike trail or hiking trail if anything. A touring bike like mine would do better with pavement. However, I took the plunge and after many miles in it only made sense to continue forward. It protruded straight up and the trail was very narrow with overhanging bushes and grass hiding parts of the path. Some of the trail was just broken up and I had to walk my bike a lot. However, surprisingly I did ride most of the way up. I saw several hikers as well as some speeding mountain bikers who came out of no where. It was very hot. My skin felt like it was on fire. My legs and ankles probably looked as though I was Hispanic. With a tough challenge comes a splendid reward. This was the case when I reached the summit of Pedro Mountain. I looked over at the ocean view and the scenes around me. It was truly magnificent and I thought to myself, "This is why I do this." Now it was the downward spiral. And truth be told this mountain trail was really a spiral. It was just as crooked if not more so than Leggett hill. Going downward proved to be much more difficult. It wouldn't have been so bad if my bike wasn't loaded down with junk. Riding was out of the question. I had to walk, and not just walk, but it was all I could do to keep my bike from not tumbling down the mountain without me. It was extremely steep - and filled with loose gravel. I must've lost 5 lbs that day alone and gained muscle keeping my bike from falling. My tent, sleeping bag and backpack on the back of my rack kept dislodging themselves. It is a wonder I still had no flat tire. I was checking them constantly. Well --- at last I came to the southern end of the mountain trail where the forest meets the sea and looked back over my shoulder at where I just was a moment ago.

Well, that certainly was an adventure and a half! But now I am back on solid ground. I wanted to kiss it. As I went along, I walked up this path that looked like the bicyclists version of Lombard Street with the crooked switchbacks. After Montara, Moss Beach and El Granada I finally made it to Half-Moon Bay. Keep in mind I haven't slept in 2 days. When I arrived, I was relieved to say the least. It was fairly early in the afternoon, so I laid out my ground sheet, used my tent as a pillow and just collapsed under a tree. The nap felt really good. I did end up setting up my tent and looking out over the marvelous ocean before drifting off to sleepy land.

July 26 (Half-Moon Bay to New Brighton State Beach, 62.50 miles) - You would've thought that as tired as I was from the lack of sleep, I would've had a late start to the day, but once you get in a groove, it's hard to stop. In my defense however, today was fairly flat day than what I have been experiencing. I thought I wouldn't be happy to see Hwy 1 again, but boy was I happy to see it. I have often wondered if I should ever move down here. There's pros and cons to living anywhere I suppose. But the bicycle culture is so vibrant in this area. Ever since I entered San Gregorio, hoards of cyclists came pouring in from the countryside. And I mean the ones with racing bikes and spandex. From San Gregorio to Pescadero, I must've seen a hundred or so cyclists. Most of them were traveling in a group and it looked like they were in training or something...or maybe just a club ride. As I was riding by some, they asked about where I was heading and where I came from, etc. Some even rooted me on as I climbed a hill. This was a scenic route that went away from the main highway. It looked like a popular route for bicyclists. I'm glad I found it. I stopped at an old country store in Pescadero as did many of the other cyclists before heading on my way.

At long last I merged back on Hwy 1 which took me all the way to Davenport where I stopped to refuel and then emerged into Santa Cruz, the first of several large cities. It's always nice to come into a city after being in the country for awhile. I got my first glimpse of California's beach culture. I walked along the famous Santa Cruz Boardwalk and by the crowds of people before arriving at New Brighton on the southern end of the city. There were no other cyclists here and it was a crowded place. There were surfers and other loud Californians and tourists. I kept to myself, charged my phone at the nice covered area, walked to the beach, ate some crackers and sausage and planned the next day.

July 27 (New Brighton to Pfeifer Big Sur State Park, 79.66 miles) - Castroville is the Artichoke Center of the World. It's a small town on the coast and from there all the way to Monterey, 15 miles away there was a nice bike path - passing through Marina and Seaside. It was the Monterey Bay Coastal Trail From here all the way south I have noticed the state of California goes out of their way to provide for and accommodate cyclists. There are paths everywhere. I think it was on this path or the day before that I got a call from Serg, a friend back home who had a question about bikes. He didn't realize I was on a bike trip myself. That was funny.

When I arrived to Monterey, I was looking forward to riding the 17-mile drive along the peninsula. However, what I was unaware was that you have to pay a fee to even enter Monterey. It is a super secret community I suppose. I could've coughed up the money to do so, but I chose not to. It was kind of tricky getting back on the hwy to where I was heading. Confusion set in. When I finally figured it out I passed through Carmel by the Sea and was enamored at the sea. Highway 1 hugged the coastline from here. I saw a sign that had a crooked path on it saying "Next 74 Miles." This was beautiful country, but it sure was curvy and hilly. There was another sign that read, "Hills, Curves next 63 miles." At least they give you a warning!

A few miles before Big Sur, I came to a pull-out rest area to take in the view of the bridge and ocean and rocky cliffs. To my amusement there was a homeless man with a guitar sitting on a rock singing whatever came to his head or that he saw. He had a bunny on top of his head as he sang and another one running around somewhere. He wasn't exactly homeless because he did have a beat-up RV camper that he drove. He asked me where I was headed, then proceeded to say, "Well, I've been looking for someone to smoke a pile of weed with me. Interested?" I don't smoke. "Alrighty, I'm sure there's people in Big Sur that will." I must've been in weed country because it seemed like everyone around here took part...including other cyclists. Speaking of that, I saw Tyler again. He's the young, weed-smoking hippie dude. He rode past me on a uphill a I was stopped. He stopped too to yell out to the open expanse of coastline. "I'll see ya in Big Sur."

The homeless man with the bunny drove past me heading into Big Sur. This sure was a very rocky coast, filled with miles upon miles upon miles of hills and curves. I slowly made it to Big Sur and rode the rest of the way into Pfeiffer Big Sur campground that had a very well-established hiker/biker site. I was glad I was here because I, along with Tyler, plan to stay an extra day here to rest my ligaments and catch up on some much-needed sleep from San Fran. I rolled out my mat and sleeping bag and took a rest...

July 28 (Big Sur Rest Day, 00.00 miles) - I was in no hurry to get out of bed because I was dog-tired. It's days like these that I get too lazy to set up a tent, but it's just as well because it's such a beautiful day. I awoke to the giant Redwood trees looming over me. This was one of my favorite places to camp along the coast. Now, I've heard so much about Big Sur and the surrounding areas that I was expecting more. I was a little disappointed to tell the truth. Don't get me wrong, the coast was gorgeous and the forests here were amazing. It truly is a great place, but I don't see what all they hype was about. Was there something I was missing? Sure, I had no time to climb down and explore the beaches, and I've heard there were some caves nearby, but I still had a good time there and am glad I got to see it. There is one thing true about Big Sur: expensive. Big Sur and the surrounding small towns along this remote section of Hwy 1 are super expensive if you want to buy anything. I think they take advantage of the remoteness. I had thought that some of the prices they charge should be illegal. They are more than airports. It's crazy, it is. But I didn't get hung up on that fact. I bought what I needed and moved on.

I didn't sleep the entire day away, although I probably could've, especially with the sun on my face. I spent the day taking pictures, journaling, walking to the lodge and around on the various trails the park offered. And there was a trail to a waterfall that I wanted to take advantage of. It was probably about 3 miles, so relatively short. There were a few others who hiked this as well. When I got there, it was more like a trickle than a waterfall. It was really disappointing. Hiking back down I wanted to tell people hiking up that it wasn't worth it, but I didn't Instead I marveled at some of the views of the canyons and valleys. This is but one state and God's creation never ceases to astound. When I got back to my camp, I decided to give my bike a cleaning again. Tyler was flirting with a fellow cyclist in camp and I just ignored them. Although, later that evening she asked if she could use my dual charger which was okay. I'm a nice a guy.

It's amazing what some time off the bike can do for your muscles and your soul...

July 29 (Pfeifer Big Sur to San Simeon State Park, 73.75 miles) - The fog once again settled over the blue ocean which made for spectacular views from the road. Some of the clusters of rocks below, the coves on the edge of the coast reminded me of a pirate's hideout or where they may arrive to find buried treasure. On tour, you have to keep your imagination alive. It's not that difficult. There was one pullout that I stopped at that seemed like an abandoned watering hole. It was empty, just a stone structure. It was quite interesting. A little further down the road there was this short tunnel-like structure that was the coolest thing. It was this rock and stone structure that created a tunnel with large windows overlooking the ocean. It might've been created to prevent landslides or something. I'm not sure. I also saw this huge seat on the side of the road. It was made out of a huge tree stump. It was just calling out to me to come sit in it. I felt like a king looking out over my expanse water kingdom! It was near here where, at a viewpoint, a squirrel decided to nibble on my bike tire. I found that amusing. He had some friends chasing after crows and other birds. It was a happening place for wildlife, even the seagulls joined in.

The fog was starting to dissipate some coming down from the hills. The road began to flatten out and it was a much-needed surprise to be going faster for a change. Tyler sped on by me seeming to enjoy the same sentiment. I came to a part of coastline where there were hundreds of sea lions lounging out on the beach. I met a man from Salem here when he asked me where I was from. At long last, I came to Hearst Castle. It was getting late, but I was almost to San Simeon, so I decided to ride up the hill to Hearst Castle to see what that was like. And, of course, like everything else, it costs a fortune to get in. They wouldn't even allow you to see it without paying the fee to enter. I did hear the castle is very cool and maybe some day I will go see it, but not today. Today, I will continue to San Simeon. At San Simeon, I witnessed a beautiful sunset. It looked like Tyler and I were the only bicyclists there so we just shared a site. There were more hiker/biker sites but many of the "car and RV campers" did not read the "Hiker/biker only" signs. The disrespect continues... Anyway, it was a nice campground though. I got out my alcohol stove again to try it and it worked! I heated up a cup of coffee. It didn't work all the time. But I was happy when it did! Tyler came back from town with some beer and snacks and offered me some beer but I declined.

July 30 (San Simeon to Coastal Dunes RV Park across from Pismo Beach State Park, 56.58 miles) - After Harmony and Cayucos and bypassing Morro Bay I came within a stone's throw of San Luis Obispo, but I had no reason to go there. It was out of the way and I once again strayed from the main highway which was nice. Again, there were many bicyclist-specific paths throughout...some even equipped with bicycle traffic lights. After Los Osos, the Valley of the Bears, I stopped at a pleasant green city park by the beach to eat some lunch and my cheese bagel. I was close to Pismo Beach and it was early so I stayed there after lunch and perused over my maps to see where I was heading after that. I also took in the palm trees...it was a sign that I was heading into Southern Cali.

I came to Pismo Beach and rolled into Oceano Campground where, from prior research, knew there was a hiker/biker site. They turned me away unless I wanted to pay for a full tent-site. Their story was that they used to have a hiker/biker site but don't any more. Who does that? Who gets rid of a hiker/biker site, the greatest camping invention known to man? I was a little perturbed. They turned away another cyclist just before me (who turned out to be Tyler). They recommended me to across the way where there was an RV Park that allowed some bicyclists to camp. That was my best bet. I rode there, across the street and paid $13.00 for a hiker/biker site. I saw Tyler there and he thought it was ridiculous too and almost decided to sleep on the beach. There was a pool here however and even laundry facilities where I charged my phone. Tyler took a dip in the pool and after the fact, I wish I had too. The evening was pleasant except...the park was conveniently located right between the highway and the train tracks. There was a train that ran every few hours. It woke me up at about 4:00am. After my shower, I walked past Tyler who said, "Hey, we've got a movie playing at our site." When I got there I knew what he was talking about. Our RV neighbors were in fact watching a movie on a large projector screen. So between that, the highway traffic and the trains, I don't need to mention that I didn't get much sleep, or at least good sleep. We were touring cyclists who need our sleep. We did our best. There was a little boy there on a bike who befriended us and gave us some gummy candies. I thought that was rather nice. You have to appreciate the little pleasantries on tour.

July 31 (Coastal Dunes to Goleta, 93.60 miles) - The next morning was the last I saw of Tyler. He was headed to his home in Tuscon, Arizona. I bid him farewell and good luck. I got an early start because I knew, from my map and research, today was going to be a long day. And indeed it was.

Here's the story: I was in contact with a warmshowers host in Ventura but the day or two prior to my scheduled arrival, Lesile, my contact messaged me and said she misread my e-mail and was thus unable to host me that night. She would be able to the previous night, but that would require me to ride an extra 30 miles which was insane. That was on top of like 80 or 90 miles. There was no way I would do that. So this was frustrating to say the least. I was scrambling. I searched for a few in Lompoc, but those were no-gos. I finally found a host in Goleta by the name of Jesse Hersh. He was happy to have me. So, that is where I made my way...to Jesse in Goleta.

For most of the day, my route took me away from the coast which was fine because it is nice to have a change of scenery every now and again. I saw some deer as I rode through the city of Santa Maria where I got some supplies and through Los Alamos, the Valley of the Cottonwoods and Buellton, home of the Split Pea Soup. I also saw a horse, the deer's friend. He was white. I stopped in Buellton's visitor center and picked up some information and noticed there was not a regular bike shop. Everyone down here and further south had electric bikes.

There were a lot of gusty winds today and the heat was attacking with a vengeance. There was a train track running right by the ocean and I thought that was the coolest thing. It just looked really picturesque. This was of course when I made it back to the coast via Gaviota. I made it to Jesse's place in Goleta and to my surprise there were several other bicycle tourists there too. I was beat for having ridden over 90 miles today. Jesse was a bachelor who lived alone and had a cool garden filled with camping spots for us. I felt like I was in the forest. Jesse himself had an igloo-type lodging that he slept in. He did have a house with a shower and bathroom and kitchen. The next morning he would make me some coffee which was nice of him. He was a very polite man with a cool mustache the he was spiffing up with the help of a friend. Haha. Thanks Jesse for saving my bacon. I am tired, so I will have to retire to my sleeping bag out in the garden...