I plowed through Carson City. I was on a roll. I came to the town of Dayton after going 38mph down another steep hill. Had lunch at Taco Bell and got a Subway for the road. Outside Taco Bell I met Ryan Lewis, another cyclist whose been on the road awhile and apparently living outside for two years. He was an interesting fellow. I had the time so I stayed there chatting with him. He gave me the rest of his Aloe drink which was good. I had to remember to try to find those down the road. Ryan talked about a lot, about so many things - writing (he was writing a book and showed me what he was working on, his manuscript), cycling, says he wrote...government, theories...so much to life, no?! He asked me about grant writing since I worked for the public schools. No one wants to tell you how to write a grant. They know, but no one wants to tell...etc. Obama. Government, this and that...blah...50 states...1 library of Congress...only one location to file...and zero grant information offices. He was quite the intriguing kind of guy. Though he may not have been the most pleasant or respectful kind of guy, he had spirit and spoke his mind and I wish there were more like him. He was in the military for awhile, but then now he's just traveling...He rode from Denver and is now on his way to Tahoe and may swing by Oregon in the Fall. I may see Ryan down the road later. Who knows. For now we split ways.
I came to Lahontan State Recreation Area - 90+ miles today - Long, but good and flat mostly. You wouldn't believe the sky here! They call Montana Big Sky Country, but this sky - wow - no mountains or trees to hide it - so big! The miles flew on by and I'm sure I'm probably badly burnt. Let's hope I can find a suitable camping spot to disperse in by the beach so I don't have to pay - hate paying a lot for one night of sleep. I had to walk through the gravel to get here, but once I got here to the reservoir, there was no one here. The reservoir itself was hardly a lake like I had imagined. The dry year did a number. It was all practically dried up. I sat down by the boat launch which was quite a ways away from the water. I pitched camp (I chose not to set up my tent and instead just laid out my sleeping bag by the picnic table and slept under the stars) and watched the sun set on the horizon.
Well I made it to my 30th state! NEVADA! CHECK! - it's different here, but different in a good way. Let's hope Nevada will fly by so I can head to Utah!
July 15 (Lahontan to Walker State Recreation Area, 75.72 miles) Lahontan - Wabuska - Yarington - Schurz - Walker Lake State Recreation Area. Today was stressful! The highway is rough - exhausting - shoulder has wicked rumble strips - hard to navigate with traffic as well! Not made for bicycles. I would begin to loathe the rumble strip! Six miles out I get another freakin' flat on my rear tire. This time at least it was an obvious puncture - a staple or something resembling a staple, at least something sharp, was sticking straight up and out - grrr. This would set me back some. Time to repair - in the heat of the Nevada desert no less!
The scenery here is beautiful, a different kind of beautiful. But I seem to be only riding through this state just to get through. Nevada is in the way of where I want to be. Will it ever end? It is long and tedious. This is only day two in this state. Nevada has an average elevation of 5500 feet.
Yarington has a McDonalds of all places. Time to refuel and lift spirits with ice cream! The heat, traffic, rumble strips are all very exhaustive - I'm beat and need a shower and laundry ASAP.
A flat - another flat...repair time on side of the road.
As I was approaching Walker Lake, the guard rails were covered with spiders on the side of the road. Also, the tire treads were difficult to dodge along the shoulder. Once a piece of tread became trapped in my gears and frame and it took awhile to detach it - carefully that is. When I made it to Walker Lake, there were sun shade tents and I was almost the only one there. It was pretty looking across the lake. It's refreshing to see water in the desert. I see geckos and lizards everywhere. There was a sign where I learned about the spider inhabitants. Apparently during this time of year, hundreds, even thousands of these spiders, some big, some small come down and take shelter near and around Walker Lake. Just leave them alone and they will leave you alone - just be sure to check your sleeping bag before you go to sleep. That was a little unnerving, but I wasn't too worried. There were some great photo opportunities here...time to rest up!
At Walker Lake I decided to cut off my black bracelet on my right wrist finally. It was constricting me. It was about time too. I haven't removed it since it was put on me 15 years ago.
The Desert Reflections continue...
July 16 (Walker to Mina, NV, 52.54 miles) Walker Lake - Hawthorne - Luning - Mina. Today was hot and boring. Tried to get an early start but it's becoming more and more difficult to do so. Exhaustion is setting in. I refueled in Hawthorne which also contains a McDonalds and Safeway. You have no idea what a fast food joint or convenience store means when you're traveling by bike in the desert. Any cold liquid tastes so good! Hawthorne is probably the last large town for awhile. I didn't quite have a plan of where I was going to stay that night. On the free campsites website I found a free place in Mina, be it only a gravel lot, but it's free and that's what I like!
I arrived in Luning, a small quiet town with a rest area. There was fresh water from pumps - not that cold, but refreshing, that's for sure. I stayed here awhile to recuperate and get some food inside me. There was a bus full of kids who pulled in. What I really wanted was some ice to cool the water. Across the way there was a small country store that advertised cold drinks. I stopped in there and got some service from a nice guy with a lot of language. A woman came in and offered me a few water bottles she had in her car. I like it when strangers are kind. Another rough looking guy came in the store, bought a root beer and sat down to talk to the shop owner. They talked with me and were questioning me about where I was headed, etc. They probably thought I was crazy for riding across Nevada. In fact, one of them asked, "Why in God's name are you going across Nevada?" Before I could answer, the other piped in with a laugh, "Because it's in the way to where he's going." That was more or less correct. That is a good way of putting it. Nevada was just in the way between California and Utah. I was headed to Monument Valley. That was my ultimate destination, the drive for this whole trip in the first place. I asked the shop owner before I left if he had any ice I could have. He thought for a moment, went to the freezer and took out a big bin of ice. He went out on the porch and began whacking it with a hammer. Well, that's one way to do it. Pieces started breaking off and I stuck them in my camelbak and water bottles. He told me to help myself. Ah, small towns, gotta love 'em. As I was about to leave, a motorbiker walked up the path to the store. He paused and looked at me, asked where I was headed and before he stepped in said, "You're a better man than me. It's hard enough for me to ride my motorcycle across." You know, I got that a lot. Several people have told me I'm a better man than they are. I don't know if I'm exactly better...just different. Different's a good way to describe it. I enjoy the challenge - the adventure - as difficult as it may be - I'm getting hardened. Maybe it's true though...
From here, Tonopah, the next town with services was about 80 miles away. Between Hawthorne and Tonopah there was over 100 miles of no services, no gas. As I rode into Mina, I felt as though I was riding through a ghost town. I might have well. It is a small quiet run down town. I mean everything is closed or torn down except for this bar that I'm sitting outside of charging my phone. I found the gravel lot which had a few BBQ pits and tables, but was completely in the sun and I needed to escape the rays. I searched for a place to charge my devices and that's when I arrived at this bar. It seems as though this is the only place that is operating in this town. I got excited when I saw a burger joint down the street, but it was closed and run down like everything else including about 2 old gas stations that are no more. As I sat there I noticed my front tire was flat - I pumped it back up - either there is a slow leak or it just went low for no reason. Well, I'm here, not going any further today - not sure where I'd go unless it was the desert foilage.
I checked my maps - next few days through Nevada look like they are grueling. A lady came out of the bar and told me I can come in if I wanted. I asked if there was anything other than beer and alcohol. She assured me that they don't just sell alcohol. I told her I'd probably come in in a minute. She also offered for me to stay the evening under that covered area up on a little ledge/stage area. She unplugged the lights so she wouldn't disturb me later. Man am I tired - exhausted - wish I had service here to figure out my next step. Grrr....
Tara, the bartender was very nice. A few guys wanted to buy me a shot but since I don't drink I got a bunch of water and root beers on them! Cold root beer on ice tasted so incredibly good. A few other guys came in and left, etc. The guy and girl who bought me the drinks were amazed at my journey - holy crap - you've been how far? on a bicycle? They were pretty high it seemed. But it's nice to socialize with the public...if you can call it public in this place. There was a new show on the television that I was half watching. Complications and then Graceland - pretty good. I'll have to check those out when I get home.
Got all my devices charged and ready for my journey ahead. Gotta leave early tomorrow to ride 70 miles to Tonopah! There really is nothing out in this direction. But before I pulled in, I decided to fix my front flat - that would save me time come morning.
July 17 (Mina to Desert on Hwy 6, 90 miles) Mina - Tonopah - Desert on Hwy 6. Like I said, got an early start because today was going to be long and tough. I left with the sun and headed out of Mina. My front tire patch lasted the night! I'm good to go. This is a nice cool morning. However, my bike computer is on the fritz again. I spent several minutes trying to get it working. I tried to readjust the magnet - but no dice. This is such a morale killer. I had to use time instead of mileage to track progress and pass the time... I usually use the mileage tracker as a gauge to where I am and how much further I need to get...mile by mile. There is 70 miles to Tonopah with nothing in between but desert, shrubs, far off mountains and a lonely road with a rumble strip on the shoulder...
Luck would have it that I got a flat about 10 miles from Tonopah. The whole day I had to periodically pump my rear tire because there was a slow leak. I was able to pump it up and ride, but it would get soft again. I try to patch it but the patches don't hold and I'm fresh out of spare tubes. Something's up. Anyway, I got a real flat now and had no choice but to walk. Tonopah couldn't be too far away. I kept walking up and up and up the highway...steep, but could not ride my poor bicycle. I walked for about two hours when Mark and Bob from Arizona stopped by and drove me the rest of the way to town since it was still quite a long way off. They were bikers themselves and in fact just completed a ride. They were on their way back to Phoenix. I rode in the back of their pick up along with their own bikes. I was grateful they had stopped. They gave me a spare tube which was a little smaller on account of their bikes having skinny road tires. They then offered to buy me lunch at Subway. Boy did that food taste good just then! Mark and Bob left me in Tonopah - in good hands as it were. They wished me luck and advised to find a place here to stay the night and worry about tomorrow tomorrow. Well, it was easy for them to say. I spent the next few hours working on my bike, patching and re-patching my tube. I spent time outside Burger King working on my bike. The wind was strong and the sun going down quick. A few folks came in and out asking about my trip and bike. Said hello to a homeless man on the same bench. The tube they gave me didn't work that well. I quickly got a flat with that one. I studied the map inside Subway and decided to shoot for Saulbury Wash, a rest area on the way...it would probably be about 30 miles or so.
The sun was already beginning to set. I left town at 8:00pm and rode in the dark part of the way. I got about 15 miles until I got another flat. All these flats have been on my rear tire. Something was wrong for sure. I walked up the road with extreme caution of the motorists. I wasn't quite sure how far Saulsbury Wash would be from here. I entered the National Forest which looked the same as the desert, but apparently it was the beginning of the forest and I knew the rest area was in the forest and I could pitch a tent there. At about 10:30pm, I realized I had to stop - so I pitched my tent on the side of the road in the middle of the desert by a cattle guard. I was a bit worried about where to camp. I didn't want a car to run off the road and squash me - neither did I want to get smothered by insects or trampled by mammals. I covered my bike and gear with my rain fly and laid in my tent watching the amazing night sky - the stars were abundant. I was wondering what the cars were thinking as headlights flashed my direction, but no one stopped to see what I was doing there. I'm pretty sure it was legal. I was in a national forest anyhow. One person did honk, but my problems soon left as I drifted off to sleep under the vast expanse of stars.
July 18 (Desert to 5 miles from Warm Springs to Clown Motel, Tonopah, NV, 35.51 miles) Hwy 6 - Saulsbury Wash, almost to Warm Springs - back to Tonopah. Early start again to change my rear tube with my last new tube. I generally try to save tubes until I actually need them - of course I need it, but the patches did not want to hold on my rear tire. I changed the tube and on I went. I felt good about this one. It's feeling good to get miles down towards Warm Springs and on to the Extraterrestrial Highway.
Guess what happened next? Yup, rear flat. I was fresh out of tubes. Once this happened, I broke. I threw my bike down and fell to my knees. This was a fear, being stuck in the middle of the Nevada Desert with a flat and no where to go. Nooooo - I sat on the edge of the desert road for 2-3 hours crying out to God - Why? Why is this happening? A test? I'm scared. I don't know what to do. I was at a loss. Has it really come to this? I raised my hands to the Heavens and cried out to the LORD. I am Your servant o Lord, please don't leave me. I know You are with me. Please help. As I let the tears roll down my cheeks I prayed that a car would stop, but they just kept zooming on by taking no further thought. This was supposed to be fun! This was supposed to be the only thing that makes sense in our world! Work was sucking, people all around me were living their dreams, I get treated like a child, not taking seriously, friends betraying me, losing my trust, etc...etc...and so I ride...riding and camping and having adventures...traveling to where I have never been - making memories - this is the only thing that makes sense anymore - or is it? Help me O God. Please - deliver me from this bondage I am in. Show me why I am doing this! Lift my spirits. Teach me how to be joyful! Lead me on the path of everlasting -
Two or three hours later a couple from Missouri riding a motorbike pulled over to see how I was doing. Sy and Sid were their names. Sid gave me a bottle of water while Sy looked in their bags to see if they had any tools that would help. I was out of tubes and they didn't have any bicycle tubes that would fit. And I only had but a few patches left, but they were not holding. I was not sure if it was the glue or the patch itself - or what the deal was. Sy did pull out this heavy duty patch and glue that wouldn't hurt to try. I gave him my tube and as he was working on it a Nevada State Trooper drove up in his SUV. He waited there until we could decide on something and get me moving. Sy's patch seemed to work. I pumped up my tire and they waited until I was ready to roll. It is seemingly holding air. I just hope it will continue. Sy and Sid bid me farewell and the state trooper said he was going to be heading back this way in a few hours so if I needed further help, he could provide a ride at the very least.
On I rode - and came to Saulsbury Wash at last. It wasn't much, just a gravel lot and a bathroom. One other car was there with two guys debating their priorities. "Our one priority is to find some water." I chuckled inside. Try riding a bicycle across Nevada. I mean, who does that? Oh, apparently me. I left the rest stop (which would've been a nice camping spot, but was too far away to walk the previous night) and traveled another 20 miles, just five miles from Warm Springs and soon after that would be the turn off to the Extraterrestrial Highway which lead to Rachel. But alas, at this 20 mile mark my tire failed again. I was filled with frustration and anger. What is the freaking deal yo? This shouldn't be happening. My front tire is holding just fine! Anyway, as luck would have it, shortly after I unloaded my gear beside an orange litter bucket, the state trooper came back. He asked if everything is okay and I must've been delirious because I told him of the previous trooper but he assured me that that was he. It didn't look like him at first. Well, I had a decision. I could tough it out and trust my luck to go to Warm Springs for the night which was just a ghost town and still quite far from Rachel, or my alternative was to hitch a ride back to Tonopah. That's all he could do. In the end, I thought it would be wise just to go back to Tonopah and figure out my next move. Just before we left a cyclist, the only other bicycle tourist I saw in this state, rode by and asked about us, asked if I was headed to Rachel. He gave me some water and asked the trooper how far to Tonopah - 45 miles. He could make it on the water he has. He had a sleek road bike. Everything seemed to be going well for him. He wished me a good tour and left.
The trooper drove me and my bike back to Tonopah, helped me unload my stuff into a gazebo and wished me luck. My first order of business was to find something cold to drink. I found a vending machine and drank a nice cold root beer! Ahh. It was the afternoon and after calling home where my nieces were getting ready to begin day camp, the general consensus was to continue traveling ahead...maybe find a bus. And so I set out to inquire about bus services in the area. Keep in mind that Tonopah is about 100 miles from any real services in either direction. I went into a book store, asked about hardware stores in town (apparently Ace was empty and there was a sporting goods store but that was conveniently closed today and tomorrow for the weekend). That would've been my best bet for any tubes or tools I would need. I talked with a colorful man on the street who had a lot of language. He was kind, just hookey. He told me he lived just around the corner and went home, came back with some slime that you use for cars. He wanted to try it on my bike, but it doesn't work with presta valves so it just made a mess. He did however, with his wife give me some energy bars and snacks and an energy drink. I thanked him and went in search of a bus. I found out there was a bus, Silver State Bus Lines that traveled from Reno to Las Vegas. I went to Tonopah Station, a hotel and casino where the bus arrives and leaves from and picked up a schedule. The bus would come 2:00 the next day for Las Vegas.
I took the time in the gazebo to organize and clean my gear and bags. While there I was approached my an ailing man and his dog. He began talking to me about the story of this gazebo and the nearby lots. It so happened that this guy built this gazebo years ago and the town is not really respecting it and the surrounding area. He was a pleasure to talk to - a little bitter, but it's nice to converse with the locals, especially ones that had an integral part in its history. He and his dog took interest in my bicycling escapades. I think traveling alone - especially one that all he has is a mere bicycle poses no threat - or at least the threat is greatly decreased. I am vulnerable, just trying to get by and survive - homeless essentially.
On the other side of town I stayed in Clown Motel, probably the cheapest there was in town. I laid on the bed studying my Silver State Bus Lines brochure from Reno to Las Vegas - then it was time for a glorious shower and warm bed. I drifted off to sleep watching Back to the Future - the dance scene song would be stuck in my head the rest of my journey. Oh the life...
July 19 (Tonopah to Las Vegas Greyhound Station via Silver State Bus Lines, 00.00 miles) Tonopah - Las Vegas, NV. Awaking in your motel room is an excellent way to lift your spirits. It is truly an excellent place to relax - nice and cool. After some struggling days, it was time to begin the next stage of my journey. I did some journaling, got ready for the day - took another shower - oh, glorious shower - and picked up a complimentary road map of Arizona at the office of the Clown Motel.
Today I was going to catch a bus to Las Vegas. Oh, the turning of the tide. I've never been to the infamous Vegas, Sin City as they call it and it was never in my plan - never intended to travel there. However, circumstances made it that I would make an appearance. I was in contact with Dad who was an immense help contacting the bus line and making sure it would accommodate both me and my bicycle. After finding some food and drink, I set up my bike figuring out how I would break down all my gear - 2 panniers, a handlebar bag, tent, pad, sleeping bag and backpack into 2 carry-ons. I needed to condense them so they can all fit on the bus okay posing no problems. Once I figured it out, I had lunch and walked on over to Tonopah Station early to look for the early bus - the north bound one for Reno. I wanted to see where it would come in and stop at. Anyway, I couldn't much find it. Maybe it passed, maybe it hadn't come yet. I had to buy groceries anyway in the store next door. As I came out of the store, a sheriff and a state trooper were waiting for me. The asked me how I was doing before proceeding with their intended business. They got a call that I was peeking in cars in the lot and writing down license plates and things. LIES. I was more than a little perturbed. What a bunch of hooky rubbish! They asked for my I.D. and called it in - not quite sure where, or who would even have a file on me - so much for small town hospitality - jerks! How rude. After asking where I was headed, the sheriff said I could go. And I was probably not the one being nosy, but if I was then he advised me to stop. Anything that happens in a small town doesn't go unnoticed and people get suspicious. Well, I will soon be dusting off my shoes and heading to the next town.
After being shook up a bit, I drank my Frappe and sat down to wait for the 2:20pm bus in the back of the Station. As it arrived, the first thing the driver asked me was how much my bike was worth. I was taken aback. He informed me quickly that since it is not insured they hold no responsibility for any damages that might incur. He was kind of insensitive and rude about it. I had an entire cargo compartment to myself where I put my bike and bags. There was no cushion or anything. I had to remove both tires to make it fit. I prayed that my bike would make the trip safely. "Can I get paid?" the driver asked. First, I had a few questions about the compartment, and bus, etc. He recited a whole monologue about the proposed trip and rules, etc. But he interrupted again and asked, "Can I get paid!" He was quite insistent. I paid him. It was an extra $25.00 for my bicycle. But still, I had to find a bike shop and none was to be found in the middle of the Nevada Desert.
On the bus, the driver cracked a few jokes on the way to Vegas, or at least when we were pulling in - something about being excited to have arrived - so he does have a sense of humor in all that insensitivity. Anyway, on the bus I looked out the window at the desert landscape. Mile and mile rolled on by and it all looked the same. I could be riding out there. It was hard to sleep in my seat. The woman across from me didn't find it very difficult. The driver told me of an outlet I could plug into, but I could not find it - I guess my charging would have to wait. My brother-in-law called with some information on the Greyhound service once I arrived in Vegas. My plan was, once I arrived in the city, catch a greyhound bus to St. George, Utah. That was the next prominent place I was trying to get to. However, everything works better in theory, right?
At about 6:30pm we arrive and unload in Las Vegas. As the driver helped me with my bike, he was not careful with it. He just wanted to do his job and leave. As we unloaded my gear and set it by my bike, an official came out and told me to move my bike and gear to the back of the station - rightly so because I was in the front where the buses come, but what a pain! It's my first time being here. Cool town -- didn't get to see much, but what I've seen I like. I like all the lights. The station was across from The Golden Nugget and another casino I forget the name of. I got in line to approach the ticket counter to hopefully purchase a ticket to St. George. I asked them if the buses accommodate bicycles and they informed me that I would need a bike box. There was a clear sign that read "Bike boxes: $15.00." After checking in the back, a guy came out and told me that they are out of bike boxes. They had ordered some new ones but they aren't due to arrive for another month!! Can you be serious? Well, he gave me some options as I pulled to the side to let the people behind me approach the counter. He went to check to see if they had smaller boxes - he's seen people use two or three smaller ones and somehow latch them together around the bike. Unfortunately they didn't have any of those either. I was a little wary of that approach anyhow. The other option would be to find a box store or a bike shop. Box Brothers, a mile or two away would have what I need, but I told him I am unable to ride my bike on account of my flat tire. Besides, it was closing soon anyway. I googled a few bike shops on my phone that were nearby, but alas, they were all closed by now too. I had no choice but to wait until morning...
I leaned my bike against the far wall by the seats and sat next to it after getting some drinks and food - time to wait - to rest and to wait some more - most uncomfortable seats ever - my goodness! I tried to get some shuteye, but no dice - with the noise of passengers and the super uncomfortable seats, it was next to impossible. I tried laying down using a towel as a pillow - tried laying on the floor for awhile which was better but still not a good bet. I tossed and turned and walked around, drank some fluids, ate some energy and tossed and turned again - all night long - no sleep whatsoever - just waiting until morning - until a bike shop would open -
July 20 (Las Vegas to Valley of Fire State Park, 65.11 miles) Las Vegas Greyhound - RTC Bike Shop - Valley of Fire State Park. No sleep for two days - stayed awake all night and through the morning in the Greyhound station. Waiting was the name of the game. Eventually an official came around, waking people and asking them for their ticket. He asked if I had a ticket - NO! I'm not sure which/if any bus I will get on - come one man! I'm human too! Eventually they had to kick me out of the station for not having a ticket. Only ticketed passengers were allowed in the building now...but this wasn't until about 4:00am.
So there you have it! I pulled my bike and gear outside and leaned it up against the wall, slumping down to wait - again - watching the sun come up a few hours later. There was even a certain line we couldn't cross. I wasn't the only one. There were a handful of other guys and gals out there too. Earlier I had contacted a WS host that was located near the station and told him my predicament, but I didn't hear anything back from him. Outside I met two interesting fellows, well actually three, but one guy just spat his mouth the whole time while pacing. One of the guys I talked with was from Chicago, divorced with two kids - on his way to Salt Lake City, then on to Spokane, WA to meet up with a brother. He was intrigued about my choice to bike around - told me he's always wanted to backpack or something across the country, asked me a lot of questions - would love to know what it's like just to drop everything and ride or backpack - away. The other guy, who reminded me a lot of my friend Chad, from Ogden, UT had a lot to say. He was a pretty chill guy. I liked him. He walked down to the market to get some juice to stay awake. All he's had was a Subway and a monster energy drink to stay awake. He was pacing just trying to stay awake. Both these guys were on the same bus heading to Utah. I bid them both farewell around 7:00am and walked my bike to RTC Bike Shop in the transit center less than a mile away.
There was three buses to St. George today. One at 7:30am which would not provide enough time to get a bike box and get back in time. The second was at 2:30pm which would've been ideal, but it was sold out. The final bus wasn't until 10:00pm. Therefore, since I was eager to get going and wasn't sure how much the bus ticket, bike box and bike charge would cost anyway, I made a quick decision to fix my bike here in Vegas and ride out - three days to St. George!
RTC was a cool shop. The guys there asked me about touring. One of the guys wanted to do it one of these days but the other guy just laughed and said, yah right! At first they didn't seem very helpful because all they were going to do was change out my flat tube. But I was flustered because I needed to know why I was getting all my flats - I knew the what, now I needed to know the why so I can prevent it. I still had a long way to travel. He inspected my tire, wheel rim - nothing! I did the same thing countless times and also came up with nothing. He put the tube in, inflated it and voila - a huge BULGE in the tire. Bingo. That happened once before to one of the tubes so I clearly thought it was a problem with the tubes - so I paid no attention to the tire - and I wasn't carrying a spare tire other than the old one that was replaced in Truckee. But the truth remained. There was something definitely wrong with the tire. Not sure what, but it needed to be changed. I had just switched out my tire in Truckee a week or so ago. This shouldn't have happened unless they sold me a defective tire.They installed a new, slightly larger tire but assured me it was great for touring!
As I was exiting the shop, a crowd of teenagers were getting ready to mount their bicycles that they had just rented. A few looked as though were electric, but it seemed like they were heading out for a quick group ride. A few watched as I loaded my bike and road out of town. By now it started to rain some - not a lot, but wet enough - it felt good though. I was finally on my way out of Las Vegas. It felt good to be back on the bike. In the end I probably didn't lose much riding time by taking the bus. Instead I would approach St. George from the south rather than the north. There really wasn't any place I set out to see in Nevada other than just to step foot in the state to cross it off my list. Although it would've been nice to ride on the Extraterrestrial Highway and see the town of Rachel where I could've gotten an alien burger at the Little A'Le'Inn, my misadventure directed me elsewhere. Onward I ride...more adventures await.
On Las Vegas Blvd out of town, I encountered a HUGE headwind. It was all I could do to keep riding straight. On the flat I couldn't go faster than 4mph. I was making slow progress. It might've been a slight incline, but then again my wits were numbing - I was super tired and had no strength to fight this wind on account of no sleep. I stopped frequently to walk but got back on because I didn't have time for this....but that didn't last long. It warmed up quite quickly and turned out to be quite the hot day. Leaving Vegas, I counted 11 or 12 7-Eleven stores. I stopped at one to get some doughnuts and fill up with ice. The lady was nice and told me to hurry before her boss gets back. These stores were on about every corner - something I did not expect. That's something you won't ever see in the movies. I also noticed a butt load of tires, even a broken down van - just right there in the desert. I haven't seen so many tires just lying around!
Once again I put my mistrust in Google. It took me on this gravel road apart from the Interstate. I could still spot the interstate but the gravel road went high and it turned into another one which eventually ended and came to this gravel structure that led underneath the freeway. What the heck? I was lost again. I lost precious time, but took the opportunity to pee...
Made it to the turn off to the state park I was heading for. The sign read "11 miles to Valley of Fire State Park." By this time I was feeling a little nauseous and dizzy. I pulled into the gas station/convenience store/casino building for a chance to rest up. There were slot machines in every shop, convenience store, grocery store, etc. in this region. I bought some chips and made my move. I rested on the bench outside for a spell because I wasn't feeling well. Please O Lord, help Your servant. Guide me to the park safely and in a timely manner. Give me rest O God. Please. So I began, but I couldn't ride straight - luckily the traffic was light. According to the sign the park was only 11 miles down the road. If I walked the entire way I'd make it in 3-4 hours, but hopefully I can begin to ride soon. I ended up walking most of the way. I walked my bike up and down hills - rolling hills. The sun was going down fast. I watched my shadow in the road get ever longer. I was counting down the miles. By mile 10, there should've been one more mile, right? Wrong. I don't know who makes these mileage signs. They just don't make sense. All along I was praying that one of these cars would pull over with compassionate people. At long last, my prayer was answered. A car heading towards me stopped and I asked how much further was the state park. At least 6 or 7 miles! What the heck?! Those signs were teasing me - big time. And that wasn't all. It would be another 6 miles to the campground itself. I just about fainted. I was spent. My energy levels were dwindling fast. This nice couple insisted on driving me the rest of the way. I thanked them so much, but my thanks seemed inadequate. What could I do? God, You take care of Your own. They gave me Gatorade and snacks to get my energy up. I had to hold off though because I didn't want to throw up in their car. When we arrived at the campground, it was now dark and they even wanted to set up my tent for me as I laid down on the picnic bench. They had some trouble with my tent, but figured it out in the end. They helped to the tent to lie down for the night. I was spent and my energy was depleted and they recognized that.
I was forever grateful for their compassion. Never underestimate the kindness of strangers - they are few and far between, but they are out there. I couldn't have asked for better angels.
I was spent - hot, tired, dizzy, sore & needed rest and a lot of it - - Thank You Strangers!!
July 21 (Valley of Fire to Virgin River Canyon Campground, Arizona, 104.13 miles) Valley of Fire - Bunkerville - Mesquite - Arizona - I-15 - Virgin River Canyon Campground. Longest Day! - Every trip has an unplanned century and today was it for this one! Valley of Fire State Park was very beautiful once I saw it in the daylight. Warm day and gorgeous through the hills and canyons of the state park. I know now why it's called the valley of fire! It looks like it's on fire. I needed to sleep in this morning, but my route had other plans. I had to get an early start and good thing I did. I came out the other side of the park and was but a few miles from Hoover Dam and Lake Mead, but I had a schedule to keep and a long ways to get there. Google of course took me on the freeway - I-15 - that was a horrible mistake - rumble strips, road debris and schizophrenic shoulders.
As I was leaving Valley of Fire, google took me on this gravel truck route that kept going up and up and up. It was so steep I had to walk up and as I went several miles, a few truckers came by and I realized I had to turn around. This was ridiculous. It was more dangerous going back down. I was like a sponge full of sweat. I hate Google right now. Let's find another route.
Back to the freeway...
I was able to escape the freeway but for a little. Google took me the wrong way again and I had to back track a few miles which set me back. Hillside Drive which paralleled the freeway out of Mesquite, Nevada - then back again - the road was closed but I made it through the closed section on my bike. I wasn't sure if I could, but I did. That's the way I had to go - or so it seemed. I didn't see any other way. I went back and forth and wound up again on the dreaded I-15. There's a reason that bicycles are prohibited from most interstates. Sane people don't do what I am about to do. But as they say, desperate times call for desperate measures - also survival techniques reveal themselves and a path through must be found.
I enter Arizona on I-15. I carefully read the signs as I entered the on-ramp. There were signs that explicitly read, "Pedestrians prohibited." I sought out any sign that resembled a person riding a bicycle. I found it. It read, and I quote, "Bicycles Use Shoulder Only!" I'll let that sink it - don't laugh too much. I sure wouldn't have if I knew what was coming. Where else would the bicycle ride? Only on the shoulder? Haha. I think I'll take the lane - but wait, it's a freaking 75mph freeway. Because of said sign, I figured it was okay and safe to ride - at least it would be legal.
Night came upon me soon thereafter due to the long day, wrong directions, closed roads, turning around several times and the indeterminable interstate. Through much of the freeway I was forced to walk due to heavy traffic, low shoulders, rumble strips and just being too dark to see anything even with my headlight flashing - oh and the slanted roadway that would steer me straight into traffic.
It wasn't long soon after that I passed signs for an upcoming construction zone here in the Virgin River Gorge. (Yah, that's right, this is a gorge, a canyon - and you know how scary they can be in a car!) This was no ordinary construction zone. It was massive - causing a one-way flow of traffic and making it impassable by bike. However, the construction zone ended up being a blessing in disguise because I ended up walking through it all alone being separated from the lane of traffic. I was just praying that I wouldn't hit any nails or puncture any tires in the process. Still, this was better than battling SUVs and tractor trailers. It was a blessing in disguise until it ended and I once again merged with the heavy evening traffic. Only a few more miles until the campground - Virgin River Canyon Campground. I saw it on the map so it must exist right? Don't worry, it does! This road is super scary at night, let alone during daylight hours. I was praying, praying, praying. Prayer was the name of the game. A few times I just about ran into the lane. I was feeling a bit dizzy too which complicated things. But what could I do? I was so close to just hiding behind a guardrail or in a turnout high above to call it a night, but I was determined to make it to this campground. It can't be too much further. It is just slow going at this speed - keep me safe O Lord.
At about 10:00pm I made it to Virgin River Canyon Campground - 104 miles today - wheww. At least I am safe for the night. I am in the northwest corner of Arizona in a canyon with the only road out being a treacherous interstate highway with heavy traffic, low shoulders and slanted and winding roads. Now if that doesn't scare me, I don't know what does. I tried not to think about it. All that was on my mind was sleep. I found a spot in the dark, set up my tent in record time and snoozed the night away. Tomorrow would be a much shorter day, but I dread my path to get out of the gorge - and this state.
July 22 (Virgin River to St. George, Utah, 18.78 miles) Virgin River Canyon - St. George, Utah. It was about time I got to sleep in! But when I did, I had to exit my tent because it was bloody hot. Tiny lizards were everywhere - I made a short video of myself and sent it to my nieces. As I left the campground, and merged back onto I-15, I had to walk the bike most of the morning. Six or eight miles later I came to a bridge crossing the brown Virgin River with no shoulder for bikes and an intense flow of traffic. I stood in awe for what seemed like several minutes - probably was. I looked back at the road that was winding down through the canyon like a snake and back at the bridge that was beckoning for some action. Leaning my bicycle against the guardrail, I slowly removed my helmet. I walked over to the bridge, peered down at the massive chasm and saw no way across. I leaned over and looked at the road itself and sure enough there was zero shoulder. Only two lanes for automobiles. I'm not being facetious like some people who say there is no shoulder when in reality there is a small one. This time it was true. There was only a wall - a bridge wall. The length of the bridge would take some time to ride across too. This would be no simple action - or simple decision mind you.
In the heat of mid-day I again cried out to God. Deliver me from evil - from this canyon. I am alone here and I didn't know what to do. I was truly at a loss - for the first real time in my life I did not know how to proceed. I did not have any real options. The only options I saw would look death right in the face. I was praying with all my heart that someone, anyone would stop to help. There was a large enough lot here for them to stop. The problem was the traffic speed was so fast coming on a decline. I signed "Help" and even put my hitchhike thumb out. I tried to look as desperate as possible. No car or truck even slowed down for me. No help came and I was afraid no help would come. I stayed there for several hours getting burnt by the sun. I knelt in the gravel lifting my hands to the heavens. I'm in the desert Lord. I know You are here, but where? Where are You? Are You using this for the good? I feel it in my bones. I just don't think I can go any further. I'm stuck. I am literally stuck. I can't move anywhere. I was furious and scared...emotions were rising and so was my adrenaline. I was venting - I thought the lack of compassion in this world is unreal. Negative thoughts are too easily abundant in times of distress. But I believe that energy can be used for good. The key is to channel it. The truth was I was scared and I asked God for help.
I was there for a good two hours before I attempted to cross. This was it. I either move forward or stay put. The way I saw it was I had but one option. I had to cross that bridge. There was no trusting my luck - I had to trust God would keep me safe and I would come out the other side - alive. I put my helmet and gloves back on, got everything ready and rolled my bike up to the start of the bridge as far as it would go. I mounted my steed and carefully looked behind me and through my rear-view mirror up the hill and waited - I waited until the last car passed and until I could see no more traffic for as far as I could see. My moment came - and I took it. I emerged into the road and pedaled as fast as my legs would make those perfect circles go. Adrenaline was pumping. Finally - FEAR - a car came fast behind me. I had to stop - braked fast, pulled my bike and my body close to the bridge wall, hugged it and leaned over above the chasm. I hugged the ledge for dear life. Close behind the car a semi truck came and passed and yet another one which honked at me - what the hell is that going to do except make me fall off the bridge into the Virgin River? I was alive! My heart was beating ultra fast. It was clear - my moment again - pedal, pedal, pedal - made it! I made it to the other side of the bridge! I fell down and took a breather. I was shaking. That was the SCARIEST moment of my life! I could've died. Thank You God. This is hard for me to write down as I am reliving the memory as I type these words. It's not something that is easy to discuss. I'm getting a bit worked up as I remember these events. All I can do is thank my Master for keeping me safe. My work here is not finished...
I was reacquainted with my bicycle and began to ride up the highway. I cycled past a couple repairing a blown out tire on their truck which was pulling a trailer. I pulled myself together and turned around, walked my bike back towards the couple and asked them if I could get a ride into St. George. They obliged and I proceeded to wait for them to repair their tire as I downed the bottle of cold fresh water they gave me. I just thought it wise not to take any more chances. It was too dangerous. Unfortunately the dangerous part I had already completed. In truth I could've probably rode the rest of the way just fine, but I didn't want to take that chance. The end of the canyon was nigh, we got out of it soon. Joe and Karen were nice and took me to Washington City, just north of St. George and dropped me off at a tire repair shop. From there they wished me luck and I went in search of food and drink. I cycled back towards St. George where I was going to stay with a WS host. I was in contact with him via text the past week to update him when I would arrive due to my set backs with the bus and bike tires, etc. St. George has an In-N-Out Burger which I would've loved to have but the lines were just too long and I was hungry. I sought out somewhere else. The options were endless. This was a busy place.
At last I have service again. I figured out where to go - 9 miles into St. George to my WS host family. This city, despite being close to I-15 is another bicycle friendly community. I took an awesome bike path all the way to their house through amazing scenery of rocks and sun. This place is amazing. I wouldn't mind living here myself. I love it here!
No one was at the house when I arrived, just barking dogs. Soon Bronco arrived, Bob's son. He let me in and started to cook dinner. I was able to take my first shower in a week and finally did some laundry. I've been wearing the same three socks for weeks. Often I'd just soak them in a sink. Bob and Carol were amazing hosts, along with their sons. Bronco, their 4th son made great spaghetti and we had salad and ate out on the patio. Their house is beautiful. Bob and Carol were gearing up for their first transcontinental bike ride in a month! Also, we had ice cream - cookies 'n cream! I felt like a new person after getting cleaned up and getting a big meal inside me. I enjoyed talking to this nice couple. They learned of my trip and were surprised I went through the gorge. I tried to ignore what they said about an alternate route - I didn't want to hear it, even if it was true. What happened happened! Bob and Carol's family actually moved to St. George from Bend, Oregon about 9 years ago I think. They like the outdoors as is evident from their living habits. I wish I could move here - what a glorious place in creation. This is a rider's paradise.
July 23 (St. George to Watchman Campground, Zion National Park, 54.38 miles) St. George - Sand Hollow - Hurricane - Rockville - Springdale - Zion National Park. The next morning Bob cooked up some bacon and eggs and already had some warm muffins made. I am always more than grateful for a big hot breakfast before I head out the door. Before I hit the road, Bob wanted to take my picture as he did with all his traveling guests to put on his fridge. He called out, "Send a text or picture and let us know where you are." I did later on, but I never heard anything back. But they were among my favorite of hosts. Now it is on to Zion -
I'm back on the bike trail, the one I left yesterday. Beautiful and hot this morning! Bob guided me off the main road to Sand Hollow, a gorgeous state park and reservoir - lots of hills to get there, but oh so beautiful. It was well worth it. This road came out in the town of Hurricane where I promptly fueled up. I quickly made it to Rockville, then Springdale and Zion National Park. Springdale was a cool town. I talked to my friend Dale on Facebook. He lived here for two years and told me I'd probably like Springdale. He was right. He also suggested I go to Oscar's Cafe in Springdale. They have the best black bean burrito he's had. And boy was he right. This was my splurge of the trip. A root beer and a black bean burrito - so delicious! I sent him a picture of me eating the burrito. I was long overdue for a splurge anyhow. There are lots of outdoor/bike shops here in Springdale and cool shops and cafes. It would be nice to spend more time here sometime - right on the doorstep of Zion no less!
Springdale was lined with cars because there was a shuttle that leaves every so often for the national park. Apparently the shuttle was created years ago because of the sheer volume of car traffic into the park. There are only 450 spots in the park and so the space is limited.
There was a $10 entry fee for bicycles into the park which was a lot better than the $30 for cars or something ridiculous like that. I was afraid that the campgrounds would all be full up and sure enough they were. The park ranger at the entrance gate told me if I went straight around the corner to Watchman Campground they might have some overflow spots for a bicycle. They like to help bicyclists out. So I pulled in and the lady there said there's a big open spot designed for 40 but I'm the 12th and last person she was going to let in. But just then - as she was flipping through her papers, a tent sight had just opened up. She thought I'd prefer my own space. Awesome! Thank the Lord. Sixteen dollars - not bad for a place like Zion. I was expecting more, but when you tag on the entry fee, it adds up. The only thing bad about it was that it was all in the sun. Man it was a hot day - but gorgeous and thankful to be in Zion! I put my food in a cooler that the rangers provided to keep it away from bears I suppose. I opened my maps and planned some for subsequent days before I walked to the visitor's center to fill up my water. This place sure is crowded - that's the only downside I think. I am so used to seclusion and being out on the open road alone, that this was kind of a culture shock. So many foreigners here - German - Russian -French - Asian - more I suppose. I heard more foreign languages from here to Monument Valley and beyond, basically all through southern Utah and northern Arizona than I did English. This region is a huge tourist trap I suppose.
I'm just traveling on my bicycle to see amazing places of creation & to meet amazing people & have amazing experiences. I'm just a person on a bike.
I'm just a person on a bike.
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