Miles later I came to Mt. Carmel Junction. To the left was Orderville and Bryce Canyon National Park and to my left was Kanab, Lake Powell and Grand Canyon National Park. After refueling at the gas station, I turned right, eastward - I was on my way to the town of Kanab. As hot and long as the day's ride was, it really was a beautiful one - although the shoulders were terrible as always with the rumble strips and debris. I came for a rest at Moqui Cave on the side of the highway. It's kind of a museum-type structure with history. It cost to take a tour of the cave itself, but the gift shop and the rock structures and sights on the outside were worthy taking a look at. I was on a budget and chose not to spend a lot on touristy activities. That's one of the downsides, but memories overshadow the tourist traps and empower me. As I ride along, I always wonder if these campers and cars realize they are going uphill - or is it just me? I can feel every little pain in my legs. When I arrive to places, it is all that more important, all that more appreciative.
The road coming into Kanab was a huge downhill where I hit my fastest speed to date - 40mph.
Kanab, Utah is an awesome adventure-hub - mountain biking, climbing, bouldering, hiking, etc. I would love to spend more time in this region. I explored the free-admission Little Hollywood museum. As a fan of Westerns, I enjoyed exploring the movie sets from old movie Westerns such as The Outlaw Josey Wales starring Clint Eastwood. This place was pretty darn cool. I love the West - that was my whole motivation on riding to Monument Valley - I was so close now, I could almost taste it. The landscape was beginning to change. All I wish I had was a cowboy hat.
From Kanab it was a LONG stretch of road - 57 miles to Big Water and I wasn't even quite sure what, if anything was in the town of Big Water. Luckily my intended campsite was just before Big Water. That means I would need to resupply in Kanab. The unknown is always scary, but also very much exciting. Rolling hills, hot weather, long stretches of highway, low shoulders and adventure awaited me.
As I entered the massive Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, I was on the lookout for the so-called staircase. Off in the distance I could make out the differing layers of rock that made up the staircases. Neato. I am still loving this scenery. God's creation is so beautiful. He knew what He was doing when He created everything in this state. I'm still in the desert, a different desert mind you, but it is so much better than Nevada. Nevada is Utah's ugly cousin! I thought later that there is no reason for Nevada to exist. Ok, ok, maybe I'm being a bit harsh on account of my experience with my bike, but Nevada does have a lot to offer - just not as much as Utah. I could live in Utah, I really could.
At long last, the turn off to my campground, White House. That's an appropriate name for where I might stay, don't you think? There was a ranger station there, but was closed. I always seemed to time my arrival to ranger stations on weekends or other times when they are closed. Don't you think that they should be open on weekends? Doesn't that make sense, when more people would be available? Instead I took a glance at the map of the area. White House Campground was located two miles down a gravel/dirt road. My touring bicycle as you may have guessed doesn't do well on gravel, so I spent the better part of an hour making the long walk to the site. Only about one or two cars passed me coming and going. When I arrived as the sun was setting, there were only a few others there. Not much to this site, a bathroom and a handful of sites in the open with a fire-pit and picnic table. On guy asked me about my tent because he had one just like it. But it turned out that I had the upgraded one, similar, but slightly different.
It was a long day and I am beat - sleepy time.
July 25 (White House to Page, Arizona, 43.66 miles) White House Campground - Big Water - Lake Powell - Page, Arizona. Back at the visitor's center in Kanab, I talked to the ranger about my route and he told me of a short hike I ought to take to see the Toadstools. It would be right on my right-hand side, only a few miles or so in. I gathered that information and made note.
Just a few miles this morning I found the entrance to the Toadstool hike. I locked up my bike behind the sign, gathered my camera and important belongings and set off bouldering. A family was there too and a few people heading back. There were a few ambiguous signs to stay on the "trail," if you could call it a trail. It was part trail, part rocky boulders. I hiked and half jogged and leaped around the rocks, taking quick pictures so as not to delay my day's ride. Plus I didn't want to leave my bike there for long. The toadstools were great. There were small ones and large ones, near ones, far away ones. I'm sounding like Dr. Suess. The trail, however, was not clearly marked. I ended up on this ridge by a few toadstools with crumbly rock and saw the family hiking about half mile away. I wandered in their direction. Perhaps this was my fault because I was rushing. I kind of got lost - okay, I did get lost. I couldn't find the way out back to the road. The family had already come and gone. They were smart. I was all alone in the desert with the toadstools. I was there much longer than expected - crawling all over the desert landscape with the lizards and through the small canyons - you know, the desert landscape that I wasn't supposed to disturb! Oh well, my survival was more important than crumbling rock! I began hopping from here to there and came to several dead ends, turned around and rethought this whole thing. I tried not to panic. I prayed and prayed. Tried to stay calm, though it was hard. It was bloody hot and I couldn't afford to waste the whole day here. I've only been a few miles.
An hour or so later I made it out when I saw the correct signage and the landscape started to look familiar. At last - there's my bike. I was so relieved. I jumped for joy - but not too much as another couple was just beginning the hike - now they show up - sheesh. At the very least, I was just ecstatic to be on my bike again. It felt so good to have rubber under my wheels once more...rolling down the road!
Big Water! - not much here but the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Visitor's Center. The old ranger here was nice and helped me out. This was the acclaimed dinosaur exhibit which is really cool. - all sorts of dinosaur bones, fossils, information, gifts, etc. They had a collection of a stuffed Wooly Mammoth - a different one than I had in my own collection. I would've bought one of the smaller ones but where would I put it? I really wanted one of those. I came back to look at them a few times to decide. In the end I regretted not getting one. At least I know where they are now! haha
They didn't have anything in the form of water or food at the visitor's center except a luke-warm pump outside. I was running low on water and could use some energy too, at the very least to lift my spirits to make it down the road to Lake Powell. I went back to the road and that's where I saw it: a small market across the way to my left. It wasn't much to write home about, but it had the essentials, gatorade and snacks for energy! I came in, bought my needed sustenance and the lady at the counter asked me if I was riding my bicycle. When I assured her I was, she was stunned. Your riding in this weather? How do you handle the heat? The other people in there were amazed as well. I just shrugged it out and mentioned whereas it is hot, I just get used to it. Wow. A cowboy walked in, made his purchase and walked out while the cashier look after him with googly eyes. I chuckled as I left. But hey, I'm riding my bicycle! Where are all the bicycle-loving girls?
Glen Canyon Dam! I had no idea how big and popular this place was. It had a HUGE visitor's center overlooking the dam and the place was crowded. I leaned my bike up and immediately two security officers told me to move it to the bike rack clear and faraway. That was a pain. But I obliged. Why were there two of them I wonder? Was I that intimating? Was I dangerous? Did the sheriff of Tonopah make a call? Was I being watched? monitored? Grr. People are dumb and don't like to help you out - unless of course they do, but there are so many people in this nation that are self-centered and all about the rules. There are countless keep out/no tresspassing/private property signs - it is unreal. No, keep out, rules - CRAP. That's what I call it! You know, Lewis and Clark didn't have this much trouble. Well, okay, they had other issues, but that's not the point haha.
In Page, Arizona, I realized I wasn't sure where I was going to bed down for the night. My destination was the Lake Powell area. I contacted a few WS hosts in Page, but they were unavailable at the time I was passing through. I stopped at Safeway/starbucks and talked with Dave who admired me for bicycle travel. He had a 38-year-old son who died from poor health and who didn't know what to do in life. He was a rock star for awhile but gave that up and didn't have any goals. That's partly what killed him. Dave drove his rig here to Page from somewhere east like Colorado or something like that to do some work for awhile. He asked me a lot about my trip. He asked if anyone wrote about me, like in the papers. "Well, they should," came his reply. I told him that I'm not the only one who does this kind of thing. But he said that I'm the first person he's heard of doing it. He doesn't read about other bicycle journeys. That got me thinking. When you're not in-tuned to a hobby or craft, you are at a loss and know not much about it, even its very existence. I'm a bicyclist and enjoy it and it interests me. Therefore, I have read a lot about other people doing such a thing and haven't thought twice about people not knowing about it...hmmmm....Dave told me I must be in the best shape ever. I wasn't so sure, but he seemed to think so. You take these guys with bulging biceps with their girlfriends hanging onto their muscles...ask them to go for a ride and they won't last a mile! They work out their upper bodies and think they are in great shape, but they have no leg strength, or no endurance. - Well, good luck to you...
A few homeless Navajo talked with me that evening wanting money. I gave them $1.00 to help. Later, one of them came over to where I was sitting and seeing my pen (as I had been journaling) asked if he could have one of those - he thought it was a cigarette. Haha. I also met a few other Navajo who asked me if I was headed to M-Valley and I told them I was. That's where they were from. They joked with one another about where I could stay, etc...
At Page Lake Powell Campground there were RVs that lined the crowded place. I went to the office and looked at the campground map where I saw a line of "tent sites." I went in and asked them how much their tent sights cost. They informed me that they were $17.00, but their last tent sight was occupied by an RV. I promptly informed them that, "they are called tent sights!" What's the deal? "Well, they are our overflow parking." So, you don't have room for even a bicycle camper like me? "No." What the hell? I was furious. I don't have much tolerance for people like this. They could sense my tension and said there was a campground ten or twelve miles away - which was the way I just came from. I didn't have a car. I had a bicycle and it was dark by now. Do people not realize this? Why are they so insensitive. Throw out the damn rules for a change. Help a brother out. They also mentioned a gravel lot right around the corner that I could freely camp in. I made a note to where this was and headed out the door.
I pulled in and set up my tent on the far end of the gravel lot where I wouldn't been seen easily. I had another long day ahead of me and made a point to bug out of their at first light.
July 26 (Page to Sunset Campground, Navajo National Monument, 95.87 miles) Page - Kaibito - Navajo National Monument (Sunset Campground). LONG DAY - I know I say that a lot, but it is so true. Today was uber-long and exhausting. I was unsure if there were services in Kaibito which is also spelled in certain places Kaibeto. In Page, Dave looked online to see if there was anything in Kaibito, but couldn't find anything. I had my doubts. If there wasn't anything there, it would be a long haul with little water.
Here in Northern Arizona there sure is a lot of glass on the shoulders - and it only continues. The debris on the shoulders is just stupid. That's all I have to say about that.
Like I said I was getting up at first light today. I actually arose before the first light at 4:30am and viewed the sunrise on the road. I got up early so I could ride back to Safeway when it opened at 5:00am to get groceries and restock my energy load, then out on my long empty ride -
I had nice weather, a bit of cloud cover which was welcomed. I am grateful I got an early start. There's not much to write about on this ride - it was just a lot of beautiful nothingness for 90 miles in the Arizona desert. At the junction for the Navajo National Monument there was a mini-mart/gas station. I was in Navajo Nation so of course I had to pay for ice which I still find ridiculous. It's not like they make a profit on frozen water cubes! In the bathroom there was a condom dispenser. Hmm - what are the Navajo into anyways? That was the second one I found too.
It was 9 long miles up to the Navajo National Monument which took me quite awhile because I was running on empty. I had arrived just in time for the beautiful sunset across the canyon! What a wonderful sight. This isn't called sunset campground for no reason! At the sunset I met a couple who offered me a beer, but after I declined they offered me a cold pepsi instead which felt so good on my throat. It seems like everyone I encounter drinks beer - doesn't anyone drink good 'ole fashioned pop anymore? Well, I guess they drink both haha. I thanked them for their kindness.
Well, I hope to sleep in tomorrow - it will be an easier day!
July 27 (Navajo to Monument Valley Tribal Park, 62.34 miles) Navajo National Monument - Kayenta - Monument Valley Tribal Park. This morning I took my time to start the day. I visited the visitor's center here at the monument before riding back down the nine miles to the highway junction.
I rode into Kayenta which was cool town. This is the crossroads to Monument Valley. I stayed here awhile to make sure my camera is all charged. The last thing I wanted was it to die while taking pictures of the valley I sought out for a month ago. Also, there is a huge Navajo Code Talker display at Burger King. This was fascinating. Apparently it is the biggest there is. Not quite sure how many there are, but this is the biggest. Inside Burger King was like a museum haha. Also, there were some displays outside. They displayed Windtalkers, the Nicholas Cage World War II film chronicling the Navajo Code Talkers. I remember that being a great movie. I'll have to watch that again especially in light of my visit here. History is everywhere.
I left Kayenta and road up the road that would lead to Monument Valley. I was warned that Highway 163 that leads into the valley is dangerous as there is no shoulder, but that was a chance I had to take. I've been through a lot worse than that. There's always a risk when you seek beauty. As I rode closer to the valley, I was in awe around me. What a glorious place to be. This is what I set out for! I love Westerns and this is the epitome of the West. It's no wonder why so many old Westerns have been filmed at this spot. When I set out a month ago, I did not know I would make this far, but I kept trudging on and now here I am. I arrived. I made it. This journey is a success. I can turn around now and go home, right? Well...there was still a lot to travel to and see. I would never have guessed you had to pay a fee to enter through the main part of the valley - the Navajo Tribal Park - what rubbish - is nothing sacred anymore? Something tells me John Wayne didn't have to pay to film his movies here or even before that - imagine being the first cowboys or Navajo to settle this area? Crazy. I just don't like the idea of paying fees to see natural things, trees, rocks, wildlife - it simply doesn't make sense. The lady at the entrance gate didn't know what to charge me. She obviously didn't expect any bicyclists to arrive as I probably was the only one. After all, this is still in the middle of the desert.
The cars, buses and other automobiles ruin this place - the huge hotel and restaurant - everyone is out and about making money - it sucks! Navajo vendors are everywhere selling their jewelry, and knickknacks. All I came to do was to see. I didn't let these rubbish obstacles ruin my visit though. I took a lot of photos and just stared in awe at the huge structures protruding from the earth far below. I could stay here for hours - and hours I did. I wish I didn't have to leave. In any case, I hung out at the monument all afternoon and into the evening when the sun was setting. As darkness fell, I rode a few miles back to the monument campground ($20.00). This was a simple place with fire pits. Not even a toilet. A few motorcyclists were camped here but that was it. All the hundreds of tourists spent their big bucks on the hotels. This place was very primitive and I wasn't sure why it cost me $20.00. Maybe just for the fact it was near Monument Valley. A guy by the name of Barts came around and started a fire for the motorcyclists and asked if I wanted a fire. I was probably headed to bed soon so I declined. Instead he offered me water, Gatorade and noodles to help me on my way. He sat next to me on the bench. I couldn't see his face really and he swore a lot. He proceeded to unload his problems on me - ah, the Navajo! He was dealing with problems with a girl and I think he said he had a wife. He babbled on and on. I wanted to go to sleep but I didn't want to be rude. In fact, I enjoyed his company. He was a nice fellow. He left and went home to get the food and drinks that he wanted to give me since I didn't want the fire. He felt the need to do something for me. I was grateful.
July 28 (Monument Valley to Cadillac RV Park, Bluff, Utah, 49.14 miles) Monument Valley - Mexican Hat - Bluff. It was sad to leave Monument Valley - such a wild frontier kind of place - if it wasn't for all the cars and people - sheesh. Leaving the monument, I climb a huge hill, turned around as I was applauded for climbing such a hill on a bicycle. This was the iconic photo montage on top of the hill - looking down at the road heading straight into Monument Valley with the rock structures in the distance. Lots of people, mostly foreign tourists stopped to take pictures in the road. Every few minutes a car would zoom past and the people would scatter.
Forrest Gump ended his cross country run at this spot. There was a sign saying so along with an American Flag. Another photo op! A guy whose done a lot of tours himself took my picture! Some people along my journey have even told me that I remind them of Forrest Gump, but instead of running, I'm riding, but still growing my beard.
Steep downgrades of 8%, then 10% coming into Mexican Hat. STEEP...but short. Stopped to use the restroom here in an old market.
Arrived in Bluff where I spent time at Fort Bluff. This is a cool fort with old cabins, etc. Neato. I enjoyed the Western feel of this place too. The staff here were also extremely helpful and friendly. Someone on Facebook had mentioned to stop and stay at St. Christopher's Mission in Bluff. I rode through town but could not find it so I wasn't sure where to sleep for the night. While at Fort Bluff, I found an RV park across the way and chose to stay there for the evening - Cadillac RV Park. It was $20.00 a night, but had a nice shower and common area where I could journal and charge my devices. It was nice to wash up and get ready for the next day.
July 29 (Bluff to Four Corners Monument to Ute Mountain RV Park, Towoac, Colorado, 81.28 miles) Bluff - Montezuma Creek - Aneth - Four Corners Monument - Ute Mountain RV Park, Towoac, Colorado. The next morning as I rode out of town, I saw it - on my left - St. Christopher's Mission. Oh well. It wasn't exactly in town. That's why I couldn't find it. But I had a good time at the RV Park, even though it was more than I wanted to spend. Adventure comes with uncertainties and unexpected realities.
I wasn't sure if I wanted to ride to Four Corners or not. The primary reason was not knowing where I was going to sleep. I posed the question on Facebook about which route I should take and the general consensus was to go to Four Corners. It would be about 3 extra days of riding because I would emerge into Colorado for a spell and back to Utah. I weighed the pros and cons of traveling each way. If I bypassed Four Corners it would be a straight shot to Blanding, Monticello and on to Moab. Four Corners would go out of my way and be an extra 3 day journey. In the end, I decided to take the route to Four Corners. I was so close anyway and knew I would probably regret it later if I didn't at least take a peak. Finding a place to sleep would prove to be tricky.
I rode to Montezuma Creek and Aneth - pretty flat with a few hills. At long last I came to the Four Corners Monument. It was a long and lonely road. It took forever to get here. Headwinds and heat were almost unbearable and the traffic unrelenting. But I made it. I rolled in and surprise! I had to pay a fee!!?!! No one even told me about this. This was more ridiculous than paying a fee for Monument Valley. I would never have guessed. The lady wasn't even sure what to charge me as this was in the middle of the desert and probably hasn't seen any bicyclist here before. She ended with $5.00. I wouldn't pay $20.00 for a car - stupid!! In the end, I was disappointed. Four Corners was extremely lame in my opinion. I'm glad I went ultimately to say I've been here once. But it wasn't what I expected. I thought it would be out in the middle of nowhere with not many people around. There was a long line to take a picture of yourself in all 4 states - Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico. Along all four sides, there were these large walls with Navajo vendors selling their craft - all to make a buck. They sure took advantage of tourism. It is such an eye sore. So much for wild places! It made it difficult to appreciate the place and culture and scenery, etc.
As I sat there at one of the picnic tables to rest (which totally looked like part of a campsite to me - there were numbered sites with fire pits and tables and everything, but there was no camping here - what tricky rubbish!) a lady walked up to me and gave me a water bottle. It wasn't cold, but it tasted good. The wind was howling and I was trying not to get wind-burn. The mixture of the wind and heat is brutal. Shortly after that, a car drove up and offered me a nice cold pepsi and some snacks. Later as I was walking around the monument again, yet another couple gave me some cold watermelon and other snacks and water. I was more than grateful for these individuals. The kindness of strangers is something not to be overlooked. I held my head high and knew that God had my best interests in mind. He was indeed taking care of me. My next agenda was to find a place to sleep. Initially I had wanted to crash at the monument, but now that I'm here, I can see that that is not a possibility.
As I was walking my bike around the four states, I talked to a Navajo woman (one of the vendors) who told me of a campground at a casino near Towoac - about 20-30 miles from here. Another Navajo a few walls down confirmed the campground and gave me a small can of sausages for the road. Thank you sir! It was already becoming late in the afternoon, so now that I had a plan, a place to shoot for, I had to get on the move - I had 30 more miles to ride.
As I left Four Corners and trudged up a long hill, I spotted a parked car at the top. A man walked towards me with Gatorade in his hands. He said, "Someone once gave me something to drink at the top of a hill. I'm returning the favor - paying it forward." Thank you so much kind sir! Angels were everywhere.
At long last I saw a sign for the casino that said it was 4 miles ahead. Eight miles later a sign read it was one mile ahead. I finally arrived at the casino ten miles after the "4 miles ahead" sign. I saw the flashing lights in the distance and knew that was the place. I encountered a lot of construction along the way that was difficult to navigate. But I made it and entered the large truck stop/convenience store next to the casino and bought some liquids. I realized I was in Colorado now. I wasn't sure where this campground was. I explored a while and walked around these teepees outside the casino, thinking maybe that was it, but it looked too fancy...maybe just decoration. This is Indian country and a casino after all. I asked in the store and thank goodness they knew where it was so I knew it wasn't just a myth. It was at the end of the drive - an RV park of course, but I was still grateful of a good night's sleep. It was late at night here in Towoac, Colorado, at the Ute Mountain Casino and RV Park. I set up camp on a small piece of grass at the edge of the park and called it a night after eating those delicious sausages the Navajo man gave me. What a long day! At least tomorrow will be shorter since I road extra today, extra road that I would've had to ride next day...
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