Big Sky Country, Part 8: Into the West

            The sort of place that passes in the blink of an eye yet, conversely, for the few residents that live there I suppose it can constitute their whole world. From time to time I’d meet some or other kindly old soul who’d tell me they’d never left their state, or county, or town. Yet they were adamant about being an American, identifying themselves with people of thousands of miles away the length and breadth of the country – people living lives so different in places they couldn’t possibly imagine. The notion of patriotism and belonging is a strange one, sometimes. (Leon McCarron, The Road Headed West)

August 2 (Driggs to Rexburg, Beaver Dick Park, 54.32 miles, 1,900 ft. elevation) Driggs - Tetonia - Teton - Sugar City - Rexburg - Beaver Dick Park. Mary made eggs and hash browns and blueberries for me before I took off. Today was desert. Not much elevation, but also not much to look at. This is Idaho after all. There was a cool canyon creek, but that was about it. HOT as Charles Dickens! I rode through Sugar City and spent some time wondering where I was headed for the day. My initial thought was to go towards Warm Sough, somewhere in Rexburg but decided against it. Warm Slough was a free campsite that I found online but the location seemed a bit sketchy. Who knows though, right? Anyway, I had lunch and rested in a park in Sugar City and decided at long last to ride to Rexburg, bound for Beaver Dick Park, a county park just outside of town for $5.00 a night. I stocked up on food for the desert journey ahead and headed for the park. There were high winds today.

Southern Idaho is just dumb! I am drained and hot and done. I feel like Elijah after God performed all those miraculous acts and he got back into a slump - my scenery is over - now it is time for the return journey. Today is when I aim my bike westward...

Beaver Dick Park was a lovely place by the river - very pleasant sites. Hopefully I can sleep well with the sound of a generator and the high winds. But ah, the grass feels good between my toes! Often county parks like this are a lot cheaper and a lot nicer and scenic than elaborate national and state parks. I am pleasantly surprised and am glad I chose to ride here to Beaver Dick!

August 3 (Beaver Dick Park to Idaho Falls, 33.78 miles, 100 ft. elevation) Beaver Dick Park - Midway - Idaho Falls. Gale Force Winds!! All Day Long!! What began as an easy day - it was only about 30 miles - quickly began to get difficult. It was all flat but I was averaging 5-6 mph. I felt like I was going backwards at times! It was overwhelming. I had to stop many times just to rethink what I am doing. I stopped and yelled at the wind!! "Enough is enough!" LORD, please - you command the wind and the waves - help me to get across this state! I dread tomorrow. I am beat. Finally I arrived in Idaho Falls, the last town for awhile, after what seemed like days. I waited for my host to get home - Jonathan is an accountant who has little time for play and vacation but he has slowly been completing the Tour Divide in stages. He's a "gravel man" with 3inch tires and loves it. He's been trying to convert me into a gravel man after all! He showed me my room and shower before he made dinner - pasta, chicken and bread and later had coffee ice cream! He was relieved I wasn't a vegetarian! Thank goodness for that. Some live on veggies but get no protein. There's more to life than carbohydrates! Meat! Some eat gourmet meals, others live on cliff bars. Hmm...the varying ways of diet and travel.

We shared adventures and talked on his couch. We shared our mutual interest in adventurers and adventures of all kinds, films and books - travel books, etc. Bikes, running, horses...Al Humphreys, Tom Allen, "Lost Cyclist," "Off the Map," etc. Familyonbikes.org Iohan Gueorguiev's "I want to see the world!" "Unbranded."

Jonathan's wife is currently in Spain walking the Camino de Santiago with his daughter. It is a famous pilgrimage as in the movie "The Way." His daughter came alone because she is fluent in Spanish so would be a help as well as a great time to bond with her mother. Jonathan was a great guy to talk to and get to know. His hairy cat "Oregano" was friendly. All their animals are named after spices haha.

August 4 (Idaho Falls to Honey's Park, Arco, 77.95 miles, 1,400 ft. elevation) Idaho Falls - EBR-1 - Arco. Toast, yogurt and a latte for breakfast! I gotta get my energy up to conquer the desert ahead! Jonathan went to work at 7:00am and I had to get an early start on account of crossing a desert. There was nearly 80 miles to Arco, the next town...with nothing much in between. Jonathan pointed out that there was one thing...about 50 miles from Idaho Falls and 20 to 30 to Arco. It is EBR-1, the first nuclear reactor plant in the middle of the desert. Who would've thunk it? So there was at least something to look forward to ha. The winds died down some today - even had a bit of a tailwind. I made some great timing. I felt like I was flying down the road.

EBR-1 came as a nice rest stop. It is about a mile off the highway. There's a self-guided tour which was nice. It was a very cool place to learn about. Earlier, at a rest area, a guy gave me a pepsi which I drank on the spot. Felt good...the cold liquid running down my throat! Liquids, cold liquids are hard to come by out here.

Shortly before Arco, a car sped past me and came so close, crossed the line even and just about hit me. I yelled as I always do, "Too Close!!" Later, as I was rolling into town, the same guy drove towards me slowly and rolled down his window to apologize. He said the sun caught him in the eye as he sped around the corner and scared the hell out of both of us! Thanks man for the apology. Most people couldn't care less. I appreciate that stranger!

In Arco, as I was looking for my destination, a man standing outside a van called over to me, "Can I take your picture?" It turns out he is the inventor of my helmet bike mirror. His name is Brett and he was looking for someone who has been using the mirror on the road like a car would. I'm the first he's seen. Nice guy too. Chance meeting. Where were the odds? In Arco, Idaho of all places! He gave me a brand new red bike mirror to use or give as a gift.

I found Honey's Park. Scar, the owner was away in Eugene, Oregon as he was pulled away at the last minute. I heard stories about him. He apparently likes to take foreigners out shooting illegal guns and such. Too bad I didn't get to meet him. But his RV was left for me to use. When I arrived, a couple on a farm asked what I was doing - when they saw me on my phone trying to find my way, they said, in their hick accents, "No Pokemon monsters here." People can be so rude. Scar has rude neighbors. He had an RV with his barking dogs locked up in and an old camper where I slept. All I needed was a safe place to sleep - this was it. There was even a freezer I utilized to freeze my water bottles outside the camper. I had the camper to myself and the barking dogs did not shut up! It was a dirty place but I didn't mind. It was a free place to sleep - super warm tonight.

August 5 (Arco to Timmerman Junction Rest Area, 65.00 miles, 1,100 ft. elevation) Arco - Craters of the Moon National Monument - Carey - Picabo - Timerman Junction Rest Area. Up and Down - Up and Down - and Down. - so the day went. I came to Craters of the Moon National Monnument - the campground was closed due to restoration or something of the sort. I stopped for a rest and gander at the visitor center and contemplated doing the "7 mile drive" thru the Craters but decided against it because I didn't feel the need to pay extra cash to see stuff I've already seen - it's not much different than Lava Beds in California.

A ranger did a talk about the craters and their "history." It is just evolution crap. Not history! Never happened folks! All their stupid talks and all the info boards, etc. are crap.

Before I came to the actual monument, I walked through this structure - some guy created this sculpture reflecting a "cave" or cavern for the 2016 birthday of the national park service. I felt like walking through a dinosaur yard.

I met a cyclist on the road riding the opposite way as I was getting a bit dizzy and when he pulled over I asked where he was headed and he was hoping to ride into the monument and I informed him that unfortunately the campground there was closed for restoration. It's all about networking, right? Ha.

As I left the town of Carey, I read the sign, "Carey On." I stopped in Picabo at the place Jonathan recommended for the cookies. It was the only place in town. A bar/market/gas station. They have great cookies for $0.50 each. I bought several for my hungry ride as well as a burrito and chocolate milk. Good fuel! After the town of Picabo I arrived at the Timmerman Junction Rest Area where I was told people have camped in the past. I hung out, journaled and charged my phone while looking for the best place to lay my head and wait for dark. Hopefully I can sleep. I was a bit apprehensive or nervous about staying at a rest area...but after all, that's what they are meant for - resting!

As I was waiting around, some were wondering what I was doing, etc...One guy from the area asked if I smoked weed. If I did he was going to offer me some. He said he's been hitchhiking all over the place...but wound up back here. Anther guy here asked what I was doing. I told him I was planning on camping here. He ended up giving me some Gatorade and snacks. It was the least he could do and wished me luck and stay safe! "Ain't too much Christian, but God bless anyway..."

I laid my bag down at a distant picnic table and tried to get some shut eye - as best I could with the sprinklers going, etc. and cars and trucks coming and going and the lights...oh the life of adventure.

Thus ends my journal entries. The following eleven days are taken from my notes...

August 6 (Timmerman Junction to Fairfield, 27.18 miles, 600 ft. elevation) Timmerman Junction - Stanton Crossing - Blaine - Fairfield. I didn't get much sleep last night due to the sprinklers that got me wet. I had to move half way through the night so I didn't get wet. Also the lights and other tent campers who joined me in the middle of the night. Strange.

All day today I was fighting a headache. Luckily it was only 26 miles to Fairfield. I arrived at Jim Dandy's, a pizza bar on Main Street where my host Laura was working. She got me settled at her cozy little house down the road. She has 2 dogs and 3 cats...very energetic and friendly...most of them at least. Molly wouldn't leave me alone and Kam was jealous haha. This weekend was the Camas County Fair in small town Fairfield. I cleaned up during the parade through town and decided to walk down to Jim Dandy's for some good pizza and watch the bull riding and stuck around for the street dancing afterwards.

The Camas County Fair in small town Fairfield - I felt a bit out of place. It wasn't something I frequent. Beer drinking, tobacco-chewing, cowboy hats, boots and wranglers, etc. It was fun though. I enjoyed the experience. As I was sitting at a table outside Jim Dandy's, I met a family there from Salem. What are the odds they would be from my home town. They thought I was crazy for riding my bicycle here of all places. At first the mom thought I rode a motorcyle. Her daughter knew I either rode a bike or paddled a canoe on account of my finger tan lines. The dad was a retired post office worker, mom a retired teacher and the daughter is a 3rd grade teacher in Portland. They were here visiting their son who is a high school teacher in Gooding nearby.

This was a late night for my host Laura, but she was the sweetest lady, showing my much generosity and hospitality. She apologized for not being around or being a good host like she usually is, but I didn't mind. She did a great job anyhow. I so appreciate people like Laura. I hope we do meet again. It was also a late night for me. I decided to stay an extra day tomorrow and go to church in the park where Laura plays in the worship. I am so relieved that she's also a believer. It is great when I encounter fellow Christ followers in my travels. I noticed a bunch of Christian authors in her house so I had a hunch.

August 7 (Fairfield Rest Day, 00.00 miles, 0 ft. elevation) FAIRFIELD REST DAY. Today I accompanied Laura in the park for church. I timed it perfectly. Annually all the community churches come together for one worship day in the park. The young pastor did a great job talking about getting to know God better. It is quite simple really. We spend time with him as we do with any relationship. We share experiences and hang out. It was something I needed to hear really. After church, we went home and Laura went to the park to worship some more and I chose to stay and relax, catch up on my journal, play with the dogs and do some laundry.

That afternoon Laura and I had a chance to chat about our Christian experiences, etc. I pray I will travel through this small town again. Take care Laura and God bless you in your life!

August 8 (Fairfield to Cove Recreation Site, BLM, 91.79 miles, 1,900 ft. elevation) Fairfield - Hill City - Castle Rocks - Mountain Home - Bruneau - Cove Recreation Site. Laura made some great breakfast of eggs, bacon, pancakes and a great smoothie. She likes to send her cyclists off with a big breakfast for the road ahead. I ate a lot...probably a bit too much. But it was worth it! I bid farewell to Laura, her dogs Molly and Kam and the cats Buzz and the other one.

The day started off cool. After 20 miles I got dizzy and slowly pulled out of it. I laid down some on the side of the road. Downhills - rolling hills - sun burnt legs and neck and face...

Due to my large breakfast this morning, I had to poop. This was party why I got dizzy. I thought if I relieved myself, my dizziness would let up. However, there was no where I could go. If I needed to pee, that was easy. The trick was to quickly pee when the traffic was light. It's not like I'll be arrested. Just kind of embarrassing, but you know, who cares when you're out on adventure. As I came to the settlement of Hill City where there were a few buildings. I chose to sneak behind a building and squat down in the tall grass to do my business...

I finally arrived in Mountain Home emerging from the long desert stretch. I found Tony's Bike Shop where I stopped at a year ago. I needed to replace my toe strap that broke about 10 miles back. I don't think that the owner recognized me. Nice fella. I wasn't sure where my next stop was going to be. I thought I'd have enough time in Fairfield to figure that part out, but alas, it was more difficult than I had imagined. It was too far to ride to Nampa or Boise. I decided to ride to Mountain Home and maybe ask around for a spot to camp or something - depending on when I arrived in town. I spent some time refueling and fixing my bike and poring over my maps. I am getting closer to Oregon. I knew of a few free campgrounds near the town of Bruneau and decided to head there. Luckily, it was all downhill practically. I hit my fastest speed to date outside of Mountain Home on the way to Bruneau - 43 mph. It was exhilarating. I kept riding into the evening and past a few lakes and small towns. I found some BLM campgrounds for cheap and was heading for Cove Recreation Site. It was a mile or so on a gravel road, but once I arrived it was amazing. The sites had these shelters and personal fire places and picnic tables. The sunset was gorgeous. Over 90 miles today. What a long day. I am pooped. Hope I can sleep with the headwinds and bugs.

August 9 (Cove to Nampa, 72.52 miles, 1,600 ft. elevation) Cove - Grand View - Oreana - Murphy - Guffey - Walters Ferry - Nampa. Today was difficult to say the least. Long day - long road - FIERCE headwinds all day! Long, lonely desert. I fell off the bike during a descent. That was a combination of strong headwinds, small shoulder and road debris. At a truck stop in Walter's Ferry, the crossroads, it cost 39 cents each for ice. I think that's stupid. I wanted to say, each ice cube? Each what lady? Come on, give me a break! You don't know my story. You don't know where I've been! On the long uphill out of Walter's Ferry, a truck driver offered me a ride to the top, but I declined. Something's gotta give. It was a small battle in comparison.

I rode into Nampa finally. Civilization at last. It was a long uphill battle through the desert and winds. My friend Jamie wasn't able to be there, but her husband Nick was. He's a nice guy. He made some dinner of chicken, rice and corn. I took a shower and went straight to bed because I was exhausted.

August 10 (Nampa to Vale Trails RV Park, Vale, OR, 57.27 miles, 500 ft. elevation) Nampa - Caldwell - Notus - Parma - Nyssa, Oregon - Vale, OR. Oatmaeal and granola bars for breakfast. Nick left for work and left me to lock the doors before I left shortly after. Today was a repeat. I avoided the gravel though. Google hasn't been updated since last year. It tried to take me to the same places. Google has no care in the world if it's gravel or private property or business or go through backyards, etc. It's aggravating. HOT day - rolling farmlands, back roads and up and down. Cows and more cows. I entered Oregon, my home state at last. Rode through Nyssa, "Welcome to Oregon," and came again to Vale Trails RV Park in Vale, OR, the crossroads of Highways 20 and 26 through Central Oregon. I camped in the same spot I did last year...or there abouts. It is well worth the $20. It is the best RV Park out there. Before I called it a night I walked through town and viewed some of the famous murals.

August 11 (Vale to Buchanan Springs Rest Area, 91.53 miles, 4,400 ft. elevation) Vale - Harper - Juntura - Buchanan Springs Rest Area. I didn't want to wake and leave Vale Trails. This was a very nice RV Park. the lush grass felt great. I knew I had a long way to go so I got up and began my day. I decided early on to take Highway 20 this summer for the sole fact that I have not done it. I traveled on Highway 26 last year which has a lot more scenery and places to camp and stay. The day started off cool but warmed up quickly in the 90s and 100s. Sun and heat was difficult...I came to Vine Hills Summit right off the bat. The desert is hard enough but when you throw summits in there...well, you get the idea. Before Juntura was the turn off to Chukara Park, where I first intended to stay for a small fee. But it was in the heat of the day and I made the quick decision to continue to get further down the road. I need water and shade and to get out of the sun and this place wouldn't provide either. I road through Juntura and came to a cafe that charged almost $3.00 for small drinks. That is unconstitutional! Robbery! There was a guy who did give me cold water on the road as I left town. The kindness of strangers!

Lots and lots of climbing still awaited me. Drinking Water Summit and Stinking Water Summit didn't seem to end. I climbed and climbed and climbed some more. Walk, push, ride. I am SORE and BURNT! Some summits there is a sign and others there is not so it is hard to know if you have reached it or not when it goes up and down, etc. On a funny note, I scared a deer on a descent. As evening approached and the sun began to lower, I arrived at Buchanan Springs which had no potable water. I figured I would make another night of "REST" at this desert rest area. As I was setting up my sleeping quarters on a picnic table as the sun went down, a guy walked over and gave me some water. He wasn't sure if he was gonna stay in his car that night or not, but decided to give me a gallon jug of water to fill up with. He was truly a lifesaver! Thanks so much random guy! I drifted off to sleep or as best as I could while dreaming of the cows I saw on the road...

August 12 (Buchanan Springs to Brothers Oasis Rest Area, 116.14 miles, 1,500 ft. elevation) Buchanan Springs - Burns - Hines - Riley - Hampton - Brothers Oasis Rest Area. LONGEST DAY EVER!! and I mean that. 116 miles of stupid! From the rest area, it was 25 miles to Burns where I resupplied with water and food, 30 miles to Riley where I paid for ice, another 40 to Hampton where there is nothing, 21 miles to Brothers. I am SORE. My knees hurt bad. I have no water. What kind of Oasis has no water? That's what I want to know. I need water badly. I've been using it all up and rationing it. The sun went down while I was still riding to Brothers. The 21 miles from Hampton to Brothers was long and hurtful. I would ride a few miles and stop for a break. The wind was relentless and I was hurting. My saddle and knees and body. Before Hampton I met Vince cycling towards Hampton. He's from St Louis headed to Portland. His girlfriend thinks he's crazy. He's actually moving to Portland and decided to ride there. I passed him again as he was eating a bite of lunch or something. I never did see where he was staying the night. He was surprised I was going so far today. So was I haha! This was a dumb day...why did I do this top myself.

I am depleted. On the bright note, tomorrow is 40 miles to Bend. Can I make it on no water? I have a few apples I would eat to get some liquid at least...

August 13 (Brothers Oasis to Bend, 43.41 miles, 600 ft. elevation) Brothers - Millican - Bend. I got up after a un-restful night. There is no water in Brothers. As I began to pedal out of town, I saw a vending machine. Random, I know. It was outside a run down shop. It seemed like a mirage. But it was actually a working machine with cold drinks!! I got a root beer and a dr. pepper and poured them in my water bottles. I am sure I can survive on that until I reach Bend. A few miles from the settlement of Millican I got a flat tire! It's like the universe is telling me I am not meant to make it. GRRR. It was my front tire that was flat. I changed the tube and shortly afterwards got another flat in the same tire. It must be the tire boot that is failing. So I changed it and patched it and replaced the tire boot.

Bend at last. The mountains! The Three Sisters and Jefferson and the others. I can get used to these views. I called Dad and drank cold drinks in McDonalds. Cold liquids never tasted so good down my throat. I relaxed. A guy saw me and exclaimed, "Hot day for a bike ride." I had a little chuckle inside given all that I've been through.

I arrived at my host Mary's quaint house. She was a great host. Very hospitable. She is dog sitting for Mango a Golden Retriever. Very beautiful dog. Mary's husband Phil is out of town. Last year they got back from a 14 month bike tour through a bunch of European and Asian countries. The hardest and most rewarding country was Uzbekistan. I wish I could've stayed longer and heard more stories. That's the struggle with traveling on a schedule.

August 14 (Bend to Sisters to Jack Creek Campground, 45.69 miles, 800 ft. elevation) Bend - Sisters - Jack Creek Campground. Sausage and eggs for breakfast and coffee! I thanked Mary who told me about Johnson Road, a bit further to go but well worth the rolling hills and scenic views. As I left Bend I must have gone through 12 roundabouts!

I rode from Bend to Sisters on a superhighway of heavy traffic. What a change this was! I got some ice tea in Sisters and waited to meet my Dad in the park. He came and laughed at my deer's antler on the back of my bike. We talked, ate chicken and drank chocolate milk at my request! I rode to our favorite place - Jack Creek - up and down, super busy roads and there was a flippin' crack in the middle of the shoulder where I was trying to ride. I came to the turnoff, Jack Creek Road. Quiet at last! A guy at the bridge as I rode past eclaimed, "Where in the world did you come from?" I must have startled him. But I didn't have time to respond.

Dad was starting to set up camp. We set up the tents and had sausage, corn on the cob in the fire, marshmallows, plums and enjoyed the campfire before bed! What a good day...

August 15 (Jack Creek Rest Day, 00.00 miles, 0 ft. elevation) JACK CREEK REST DAY. Today was my final rest day. I spent the day with Dad and we played bocce and card games. We hiked to the headwaters and up the hill to see if we could see Three-Fingered Jack. Filled our bottles with cold water at the headwaters. We read our books, washed in the freezing creek, talked and finished the day with banana boats and more sausage! Thanks Dad, I can always count on you to help with the end of a journey!


August 16 (Jack Creek to Stayton to Home, Salem, OR, 86.51 miles, 2,500 ft. elevation) Jack Creek - Santiam Pass - Marion Forks - Idanha - Detroit - Niagara - Gates - Mill City - Mehama - (Stayton - Aumsville - Salem.) I left Dad to enjoy the campsite and have a leisurely morning to himself before he broke camp. I had a long push ahead of me. Instead of take two days, I wanted to see if I could ride all the way home in one day. It is mostly down - about a drop of over 5000 feet. So after granola and milk I said goodbye to Dad at the entrance and began to bike up Santiam Pass for the umpteenth time. I knew what to expect. Comparatively it wasn't that hard. I always have enjoyed this area. Santiam Pass always seems longer every time though. Up and up. Stopped of course at the Mount Washington overlook before continuing up the mountain. Then came the downhill...speedy downhill.

At mile 38, Dad passed me. Today was a change with the fact that it was cold for the first 40 miles or so because of the shade and forested areas. But that changed. It grew hot quickly. There was construction in Detroit. I asked to use the bathroom at a convenience store in Detroit but the lady said the "potty is full or backed up." All the other gas stations and restaurants in town were for customers only. I had half a mind to ask where she relieved herself. If she didn't buy something first, she would be a hypocrite. Stupid fat lady. I was pissed. But that is mean. Ice also cost 50 cents per bottle. I shook the dirt off my shoes and moved on. On the side of the road I peed right before I car pulled in near the state park.

The rest area near Mill City is always nice. The bathroom here was crowded and had a huge line. I moved on. I was getting closer and closer to home to pillows to cold water to relaxation. I chose to go this way because on Highway 20 near Sweet Home, the road was closed for a bridge construction. I continued on my way...at Mile 86 after 3,000 miles I got VERY DIZZY and just about collapsed. I didn't want to, but was forced to call Dad to pick me up - 16 miles east of home. I was just outside of Stayton. I was in bad shape. I laid still and almost threw up when Dad arrived. This wasn't supposed to happen. I canceled my Dairy Queen celebration. That would have to wait. I had to get home and get better.

I arrived home and laid down my weary head.

(The following day, August 17th, my Dad accompanied me to my private celebration of journey's end at Dairy Queen with a Royal Oreo Blizzard)

57 Days, 3,007 miles

Lay down
Your sweet and weary head
The night is falling
You have come to journey's end
Sleep now
And dream of the ones who came before
They are calling
From across the distant shore

Why do you weep?
What are these tears upon your face?
Soon you will see
All of your fears will pass away
Safe in my arms
You're only sleeping

What can you see
On the horizon?
Why do the white gulls call?
Across the sea
A pale moon rises
The ships have come to carry you home

And all will turn
To silver glass
A light on the water
All Souls pass

Hope fades
Into the world of night
Through shadows falling
Out of memory and time
Don't say
We have come now to the end
White shores are calling
You and I will meet again
And you'll be here in my arms
Just sleeping

And all will turn
To silver glass
A light on the water
Grey ships pass
Into the West

            It is a curious thing about bicycle touring. So much of it is, in fact, boring; quite probably the vast majority. Another large proportion is miserable. A smaller percentage is both. Whatever is left over, though: that is superb. I had encountered plenty that is boring and miserable between New York City and the Seven Devils. Yet monotonous days were already nearly faded in my memory, and the true miserable times became retrospectively enjoyable to recall how I endured or conquered them. The highs – cresting the Big Horns, crossing the Missouri, swimming in the Finger Lakes – were as clear in my mind as if they had just happened minutes previously.

            I remembered how, in my brief life as a full-time employee, every weekday faded into one long blur. I automatically lost five-sevenths of the week, and was normally so tired that I subsequently wasted at least an additional seventh during the weekend. Each day of cycle touring was not perfection – I had yet to discover the trick to making every single day memorable. But my ratio was much better than before, and the highs higher than I’d ever known in my previous life. Even the lows were better; on dull days I felt a sense of achievement that I never got from regular employment. On the road, twenty-four hours of boring scenery or bad camping or tough roads felt one day closer to a more exciting time in a new location further down the trail. [At home], rather morbidly, the same period of time only felt one day closer to death. (Leon McCarron, The Road Headed West)